Diary of a Chain Stitcher

If you follow me on Instagram you might have seen that Ed and I went back to Africa for a couple of weeks in January. Ed has spent a lot of time in a number of countries there but last year's big trip to Botswana and South Africa was my first and I completely fell in love with the continent. We couldn't resist returning and this time travelled around Uganda, again camping in a tent attached to the roof of our hired 4WD. The absolute best way to experience the wilds of Africa! We had another amazing experience including trekking to see the mountain gorillas in Bwindi and the chimpanzees in Kibale plus a whole heap of other adventures on our self drive safari. I'll write another post with more details of our itinerary if anyone is interested but for now I'll try to stick to the sewing!

I'm sharing with you today the two biggest successes of my handmade holiday wardrobe. After our last trip there were a couple of things I wanted to add which I thought would be useful. I needed to make some kind of lightweight cover up that would work as part of numerous outfits, something that would keep the sun (and mosquitos!) off but not get too hot. I had my zero waste kimono with me last time but it wasn't always the most practical garment; better suited to lounging around on the beach! I've never been much of a shirt wearer but this was definitely going to be the most useful kind of layering garment I would take with me. I love making shirts for other people but wasn't hugely inspired to make myself one. In the end I was inspired by the fabric to make a nice soft oversized shirt that could be styled in a number of ways to suit a number of purposes.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Paper Theory Olya Shirt in Stitched Silk/Cotton from The Fabric Store

I used this stitched silk/cotton from The Fabric Store. This fabric is an absolute gem. I very rarely buy fabric without a specific project in mind as I hate waste and also hate having a huge stash sitting in the corner. I feel like it puts so much pressure on me to make more things and faster! This however was a fabric that I ordered just because I wanted it. I was so intrigued by the unusual texture and description of 'horizontal stitches across the full width which gives it a lovely weight and natural hand feel' . I had in the back of my mind that it might work for a shirt but had no specific plans. It was a little crisper than I imagined when it arrived but after a wash softened up a treat. It is lightweight but still has a bit of body because of the stitching. I was worried about the inside stitches catching and pulling but it is a surprisingly sturdy fabric. It rumples SO beautifully when worn! It doesn't look creased just beautifully soft and worn in.

The pattern I chose is the Olya Shirt from Paper Theory. I've been meaning to try out another of Tara's designs since I made and fell in love with the popular Zadie Jumpsuit last summer. Chic, contemporary, clean lines and interesting cutting and construction seems to be the key theme of the Paper Theory collection. The Olya shirt is a prime example of that. It might at first look like a classic oversized shirt but in fact the front yoke is part of the sleeve pattern piece and the breast pockets are slotted into the seam between the front yoke and body pieces. Such clever drafting.

The unusual construction of this shirt made it such and enjoyable project for me as I really had to think about what I was doing and follow the instructions to the letter. I love sewing when it feels like a glorious surprise that those steps you just followed turned in to this garment in your hand and that feeling crops up less and less now I've been sewing nearly a decade. Assembling the pockets and front yoke/armhole area was a little tricky and confusing but I took it slowly and got there in the end. I'm pleased with the results but feel like the pocket openings could be a little neater with practice.

I like the way the design details carry through the whole shirt in a unified way. The squared cuffs work with the square ended sleeve plackets and those right angled corners carry through into the pocket top stitching and where the back of the sleeve meets the shoulder. I prefer the sleeves rolled up (particularly as you get the lovely contrast of the stitches on the inside of the fabric against the outside) but I did wear them down quite a lot of holiday to protect from the strong equatorial sun and mosquitos. The buttons I've had in my stash for a little while. They came from Ray Stitch who have a really beautiful selection of buttons. I like the effect of the darker wood against the pale fabric. I noticed when I was packing for this trip that I seem to have a bit of a thing for wooden buttons! I used a lightweight fusible cotton interfacing for the plackets, collar and cuffs which was a good match for this fabric.

When I first finished the shirt I was pleased but not blown away. However, after about a month of wear it has become one of my all time favourite additions to my wardrobe. In the heat it was great for wearing open over clothes too as a sort of lightweight jacket but also on its own done up. I swear I wore it nearly every day hence why there is dirt in areas of this that is never washing out now! O that African dust never leaves you! I didn't get time to photograph it before we went away so you're seeing a very well worn in version in these pictures. The fabric rumples SO beautifully when worn. It doesn't look creased just beautifully soft and worn in. It almost feels like a piece of well loved vintage clothing already.

The trousers are a pair of Anna Allen Clothing Persephone Pants which I made way back last spring. They haven't seen a huge amount of wear over the last 9 months or so but on holiday they were a surprise hit! These were meant to just be a muslin to test out the size and fit before I cut into some denim but they are actually more successful than the denim pair which I haven't blogged yet. The design is based on mens 1920s-40s US Navy sailor trousers and I absolutely love the cut. The super high waist and width of the slightly cropped leg is a winner in my book.

What is really interesting about this design is that there is no side seam. Or at least there is supposed to be no side seam...there actually is on my pair as I pieced them together from linen I'd had in my stash for ages and I didn't have two pieces big enough for the huge pattern piece needed for each leg! As I was cutting a muslin I didn't mind a side seam and simply cut my pattern piece in half and added a seam allowance. I rescued the linen from a show I did a couple of years ago. It was actually sewn into a large ancient robe but the show was only on for one night and the fabric was good as new! The fabric originally came from The Cloth Shop on Portobello Road which is one of my favourite fabric shops in London. All their fabrics are exquisite; particularly the linens. This is their washed linen in slate and it is the ideal weight for a trouser. It is soft and has movement whilst retaining a little structure and I really love the slubby texture. I thought in this linen which has more drape than a sturdy denim or twill you might miss the structure of the fabric which emphasises the lovely cut of the leg but I don't think you do.

With no side seam I was a little concerned about adjusting the fit if needs be. I fall between sizes for this pattern; a 4-6 for the waist and 8 for the hips. Without a side seam how do I grade between sizes you may ask! Anna recommended I cut the size for my hips and then take in a little extra at each of the two back darts to fit my waist. This worked a treat. There are a couple of issues with fit around the bum which I've seen a few other bloggers comment on. The 'wedgie effect' doesn't bother me at all in this linen and I feel the trousers hang nicely but in my denim pair fit issues are much more pronounced. There's definitely too much fabric below the bottom in the denim but I don't see it with these; then linen must be much more forgiving!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Anna Allen Persephone Pants in Washed Linen from The Cloth Shop

These are so quick to make (even with my added side seam!) and the instructions are fantastic. The only thing I did differently was to take a tip from a post on the Tessuti Fabrics blog and add a horizontal line of stitching between each button hole on the fly. You can't see it from the right side as the buttonhole piece is just attached to the rear of the fly but it makes a big difference in terms of how flat the fly sits to your tummy. Without the stitching the fly would be likely to gape open and show the buttons. As I was making what I thought was a trial of the pattern I just grabbed some buttons from my stash. The grey ones for the fly aren't a brilliant colour match but they are hidden away enough that I haven't bothered to change them. The little colourful button of the waistband makes me really happy!

I adore the way the pockets look and are constructed (there is a slit opening just along the waistband seam) but they're quite hard to get things in and out of because of where the opening is right on your natural waistline. The bag is the perfect size for a phone but it is quite uncomfortable to sit down with a phone in a pocket there and it is not the most flattering place to have a phone shaped lump either! If I made a shorts version I'd probably omit the pockets.

I love these two garments together but also with multiple other garments in my wardrobe. I can't wait for the warmer weather to hit Britain so I can get these out again. It feels like a long way off yet...

When we decided to head back to Africa again this winter one of the things I knew for sure that I wanted to add to my handmade holiday wardrobe was a pair of harem style loose fitting cuffed trousers. A lightweight and breathable pair of full length bottoms with an elasticated hem to keep the mosquitos off in the evenings.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Cielo Top and Pietra Pants in Linen and Viscose Crepe from The Fabric Store

Initially I went on a pattern hunt for a simple shape of harem pant. As I was on quite a tight turn around time I wanted a PDF pattern that I could download and get started on right away which limited options to indie designs. This turned out to be surprising hard to find! I hunted through the whole Foldline database of trouser patterns before deciding I was going to have to add my own elasticated hem to a straight/wide legged trouser pattern. I didn't want anything too voluminous but did want a bit of width in the leg to create a nice billow at the bottom where the elasticated hem pulls it in. I was looking at a number of options including the Paper Theory Miller Trousers, the Papercut Palisade Pants and the French Navy Now Calyer Pants. I've since noticed that Made by Rae recently released the Luna Pants which would have been perfect! I'll try this pattern out next time; I wore these pretty much every night of the holiday so definitely could do with another pair.

In the end I went with adapting the Closet Case Patterns Pietra Pants as I already had the pattern in my stash. I also already knew that they had a nice comfortable fit and a bit of width in the leg as I have actually already made a pair that I haven't got around to photographing and blogging yet! I had some fit issues with my first pair; either too long in the crotch or all around too big (I'll discuss and show you in another blog post). However as I wanted this pair to have a bit of room in them I stuck exactly with the size I'd cut previously - the 8 at the waist grading out to a 10 at the hip downwards. This has turned out really great and I don't notice the bulk and excess fabric around the bum in this finer drapey fabric. If you want to make a pair in this style and have made a more tailored pair I'd recommend sizing up from whatever you originally used.

I was sure I wanted to use rayon/viscose for its lightweight and breathable properties, but also for it's beautiful fluid movement which is important for this style of trouser. I was drawn to the idea of using a print and had my eyes peeled for the perfect one. I couldn't be happier with this lovely dotted chrysanthemum viscose crepe from The Fabric Store. The fact that it is just grey and white feels contemporary and not too bold of a statement. The trousers work with so many different tops, even other prints.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Pietra Pants in Viscose Crepe from The Fabric Store

As the Pietra's have a quite generous hem allowance I figured that would be plenty to create a narrow channel for the elastic. I actually think I could have done with a little bit more length in them to allow for the blouson effect of the fabric into the cuff. I'm happy with how they look but I'd like to be able to pull them down over the ankle a bit further for extra mosquito protection! I made the elastic around the ankles a bit too tight initially but is has eased up with wear and now they are comfortable. I used 5/8" width of elastic; I didn't want it to look chunky but also thought a narrow one might dig in and twist.

I've never been a huge fan of an elasticated waist but I love this one. The trousers have a flat front which a nice deep facing which I think is so much more flattering than elasticated the whole way around. Also the elastic around the back is nice and wide at 2"which is much more comfortable than a narrow elastic which rides up and digs in. These trousers actually stay in the right place! I very much recommend to follow the instruction to pin your elastic in place and give the trousers a try on to determine that it is the right length rather than diving in and sewing the length of elastic recommended for your size on the pattern. I needed to shorten it quite considerably to get a snug fit. I think the quality and recovery of the stretch in your elastic can affect this quite a bit.

When I chose the Pietra's I wasn't 100% sure that the cut of them would work as they are designed to be a bit more tailored and shapely. Each leg is made of three panels with a large pocket sitting in the panel between the centre front and side seams. It turns out I love the shape made up in a lighter fabric with a bit of movement and I adore those big interesting and deep pockets. Pockets are so useful when you're travelling around and camping! I made sure to reinforce the pocket opening edge with fusible interfacing as instructed. I feel like a bit of twill tape wouldn't have gone amiss either as a viscose crepe like this does have a tendency to stretch out. It is really hard to see any of the seam lines and design details in this print but do check out the line drawing and I'll try and post my other plain pair soon!

I think if I hadn't made them before I would have plumped for the view with the wide leg but I knew that the slightly tailored cut had the kind of width in the leg I envisioned for my harem style pant. I love that these have turned out to be quite a slim. They feel quite modern, especially when paired with a boxy little top like the Cielo. Cielo (also from Closet Case Patterns) is a fantastic pattern. If I'd had more time I'd definitely have made a dress version for holiday (check out those front pockets!) but that plan will have to wait for summer! It is one of those designs which looks super chic and minimal but has some well thought out details which elevate it slightly. In particular I like the bit of interest the back yoke pieces give. I topstitched these in a matching thread but you could draw attention to that detail with some contrast top-stitching.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Cielo Top in Linen from The Fabric Store

I used this chambray linen in the smoke colour for the top. The Fabric Store have a fantastic range of linens and I particularly love their yarn dyed collection which the chambrays are part of. The yarn is dyed before weaving rather than after which means you get a really interesting variety and depth of colour rather than it being totally flat. This particular linen is the perfect weight and opacity for a top. Linen is a great choice of fabric for this pattern as the crisp hand lends a bit of structure to emphasise that lovely boxy cut and shape of the sleeve. I imagine the view with the big billowing sleeves would look wonderful in a silk or viscose with drape though. I think this is a great example of a pattern which can look completely different depending on the fabric you choose and you could use a huge range of fabrics for it. A wonderful blank canvas for adding your own twist too.

I like that the neckline of the Cielo is finished with a bias tape facing rather than a facing left loose to flap around. Necklines sit so much nicer when finished in this manner. Especially if you under-stitch the binding before turning it over to the wrong side. The inch deep hem is also a nice touch that adds a bit of weight to the hem which I think works well with this slightly cropped length and boxy shape. I opted to slip stitch the top edge of the cuff down rather than topstitch. I prefer the clean finish and with this kind of linen it is easy enough to make your stitches invisible from the right side. I like that the instructions have you secure this down all the way around rather than at just a few points. I've done this before on a couple of projects like the Emmeline Tee and find they never sit quite neatly, particularly once you've put a jacket on top.

I cut the size 6 of the top (without the FBA, so the A&B cup pattern pieces) after seeing how much ease there was in the finished garment measurements and am pleased with the fit. It feels boxy without being overwhelming. I'm really pleased with how these two garments work together and feel like I could create a whole wardrobe of garments to mix and match using just these two patterns. They were both part of the Closet Case Patterns Rome Collection. The third is the Fiore Skirt which I wasn't that interested in when it was released but these two have been such a success I might have to give it a whirl.

I can't remember which image I saw that inspired this top. I possibly spied it on Pinterest or while I was scrolling through Instagram. All I can remember is that I couldn't find a sewing pattern for it! Again I'd limited my options by wanting to make it last minute before holiday so it had to be a PDF download but it sort of surprised me as I felt sure I'd seen many boxy little button up tops with v-necks around. Anyway, admitting defeat I turned to my pattern stash to see what I could use as a starting point.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kalle Shirt Hack in Rayon Crepe from The Fabric Store

The closest to the vision in my head was the Kalle Shirt & Shirtdress from Closet Case Patterns. I've made a maxi length version of this before which incidentally I also wore a lot on holiday and got a lot of compliments on! This time around I started with the cropped length of the pattern and I cut the size 8 as before. I'm sort of between the 6 and 8 on my top half and could probably stand to go down to the smaller size but I'm happy with the relaxed look of this. It sits nicely across the shoulders and doesn't shift about.

My first pattern hacking step was the lengthen the shirt by 5cm using the lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern. I decided to do this after seeing Lauren's version and liking how that added bit of length looked. I wanted to have the option to tuck the top in to high waisted bottoms which I now can. I also reduced the size of the centre back pleat in the same way as Lauren by shifting the pattern piece over the edge of the fold of the fabric by 1". This is a really easy way to reduce the roominess of the top without sizing down and potentially ruining the fit across the shoulders.

Next to create the v-neck I set aside the centre front placket, collar and stand pattern pieces and drew a straight line on my front pattern piece from the edge of the neckline at the shoulder down to the centre front. I used a pattern piece from the Sutton Blouse as a guideline for how deep to go. I think I could have got away with a couple of inches deeper as this is quite modest but very wearable! I then drafted a facing for the new neckline and centre front by tracing the shape of the front edge from the front pattern piece and making it 2" wide (including 5/8" seam allowance) all the way along. The back of the neckline remained the same shape and would now be finished using the yoke so there was no need to draft a facing for that.

When constructing this new neckline and centre front finish I first attached the facings along the centre front, under-stitched them and pressed them back to the wrong side. I then attached the back of the top to the front following the burrito method in the instructions. This means the whole front including the facings is sandwiched between the yoke pieces giving a clean finish. When 'burritoing' the yoke and front together sewing the shoulder seams I continued right the way along the back neckline, sewing the two yoke pieces together wrong sides together. I then turned the top to the right side through an armhole opening and the back neckline was finished neatly along with the shoulder seams. I wasn't 100% sure it would work (sometimes these trial and error methods of bagging out have resulted in a tangled loop of fabric!) but luckily it did and I'm so pleased with the clean interior finish.

Rayon and viscose are my absolute favourite type of fabric to wear; it so perfectly suits a whole variety of garments. It is not that easy to come by in good wearable prints so whenever I see it in a print or solid colour that I love I can't resist it and my stash has been growing! I've been adding the solid colour rayon crepes from The Fabric Store to my orders for a little while now and have a nice array of them in my stash. I tend to order just a metre or metre and a half as I see them all as little sleeveless tops or camis but recently I've been drawn to various styles of big billowing sleeves which require rather more fabric...Anyway for this top I decided to use the vintage rose colour, of which I had a metre and thought was a nice modern neutral to pair with other garments.

Rayon crepe like this can be a little shifty to work with particularly when cutting. I often cut it out on carpet rather than a smooth table surface or wooden floor as it has a little grip to keep it in place. To help keep everything on grain when you lay your pattern pieces out I often pin the selvedges together - if you're working on carpet you can even pin into it! Working with a rotary cutter can also help cut accurately as cutting with sheers lifts the fabric off the cutting surface slightly and can distort your pattern pieces. When sewing up be careful not to stretch it out and make sure to stay-stitch where required. Use lots of fine pins and keep your pins within the seam allowance if possible so as not to mark your delicate fabric.

As the fabric was only 126cm wide and I had only one metre I had to play pattern piece tetris and omit the sleeve cuffs from the original pattern. This was a design choice I was considering anyway and I'm pleased with the resulting look. I only had teeny scraps of fabric left when I finished cutting. I could have chosen to leave off the hem facing and chose an alternative finishing method but I love the dramatic curve of the hemline which is only possible because of that facing. A regular turned and stitched hem which wouldn't work around such tight corners and a rolled hem wouldn't give the same weight and structure as the facing which emphasises the shape.

I've been trying to use buttons from my button box rather than buying new as I have so many. There were a few I tried out and I was initially after a more organic natural looking button but these one out in the end as they tie in tonally with the pink very nicely. Size wise they're spot on. I love a statement button. As I can just about get the neckline over my head without unfastening the top I faked the buttonholes. I love the automatic buttonhole function on my machine (the Brother Innov-is F420). However it creates such beautiful buttonholes I can hardly bear to cut them open! For these I sewed the buttonholes on the machine (so quick and easy!) then hand sewed the button on top, right through both layers.

This weight of rayon crepe is perfect for this oversized style of top, it hangs well without clinging and has beautiful movement. I can see me making a few more of these perhaps with different shaped necklines, a square hem and with sleeve cuffs to use up some of those small cuts of viscose lurking in my fabric hamper. Plenty of time to sew at the moment anyway. Stay safe and healthy everyone.

After all those garments from my holiday wardrobe I've got something more seasonally appropriate to share with you today...an entirely woollen outfit!

The Mandy Boat Tee is a free pattern download from Tessuti Fabrics which is very popular with sewists online. I'm sure many of you have made one already! I've finally jumped on the Mandy train and am wondering what took me so long when I am such a fan of Tessuti's pattern drafting and suggested construction techniques. This top is a slouchy knit style with boat neck, dropped shoulders and close fitting three quarter or full length sleeves. It is a very quick sew and so so easy to wear! I like to wear mine with a high waisted bottom and a french tuck - very Tan France!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Merino Jersey Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee and Wool Herringbone Closet Case Patterns Pietra Pants The Fabric Store

I think I had been tentative about making this top (despite the rave reviews) as I tend to prefer a more figure skimming silhouette. I'm quite petite and don't go straight up and down so always feel a bit swamped in 'oversized' or 'relaxed fitting' styles. I think Tessuti have got this design spot on though. The amount of fabric around the body feels just right and is nicely balanced by the tight fitting sleeves and boat neck exposing skin around the neck and collar bone. I feel very comfortable but not at all sloppy in this.

Construction wise I followed the pattern directions exactly and made no changes to the fit either. Their standard sizes (XXS-XXXL) are grouped into four sizes for this pattern and I cut a size 1 of which I am at the top end of the size range. As with all knits I sewed it up with a stretch stitch on my machine, then finished the seams on the overlocker. All raw edges including the neckline on this pattern are turned and stitched with a twin needle; there is no neck band.

I used the merino jersey in port from The Fabric Store's premium range for this version and made a second one of these up in a pale linen knit for my travels but I like it nowhere near as much. I think it is to do with the colour not suiting me and also the texture of the knit not working for this style. Despite that one being less successful I can see this working in lots of other fabrics and know this is a pattern I'm going to return to again and again. The winter version of the Ogden Cami which I live in all summer!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Wool Herringbone Closet Case Patterns Pietra Pants The Fabric Store

The trousers are another pair of Closet Case Patterns Pietra Pants which I blogged about a few weeks ago. I thought it was worth blogging about these too as the design details show up so much better in a solid than the print I used for the other pair. For this pair I used an amazing spongy herringbone wool from The Fabric Store (unfortunately now sold out). It is quite a thick fabric and whilst they have been amazing to wear in the cold and windy British winter I think my second pair in the lighter weight rayon was more successful. The more structured fabric choice has highlighted some fit issues which weren't a problem with my floaty summer pair. Very interesting!

I think partially these just have a slightly more relaxed fit than the tailored pant I was envisioning in this fabric and I should have paid closer attention to the finished measurements to achieve that look. I'm usually quite lucky with most pattern companies in that my measurements fall pretty much in to one size but with Closet Case Patterns I have to think a little harder about my choices! My measurements fluctuate a little but on their size chart I'm generally a bust 8, waist 6-8 and hip 8-10. For these trousers I cut the size 8 at the waist and graded out to a 10 at the hip downwards. I sometimes have issues with the width of trouser legs being a little snug on the calves so I thought the larger size could benefit there too. On hindsight I think I should have cut the size 6 waist and graded out to an 8 at the hip. There's a good amount of ease included.

There are also a few issues in the crotch and bum. I think they are a bit too long in the crotch; it feels like there is too much fabric in that area! Seeing them in photos the issues around the bum are less obvious that I thought and I've had a lot of compliments on these trousers so perhaps that is just my own personal misgivings with having too much fabric emphasising that area! The elasticated back waist creates a bit of bulk; in the lightweight drapey viscose I used for my second pair I don't notice it at all but in this thicker wool it adds quite a bit of bulk.

Despite my misgivings about the fit I've actually worn these a lot as the accidental relaxed fit is very comfortable and they pair so well with smarter trainers and casual tops like the Mandy for work. Also those big, clever, roomy pockets are SO useful for keeping pins/pens/tape measures when I'm crawling around on the floor during a fitting! The fabric is very cosy too. It has a slightly rough texture and a subtle herringbone stripe which I think adds a bit of interest rather than being a flat solid. The back of the fabric is equally interesting as the colours are reversed.

I love how the stitching through the elasticated back of the waist looks in this fabric. The whole design of the waist area is very clever as the flat front makes them more flattering while you still get the comfort of the elastic. The elastic is nice and wide so doesn't shift around and that combined with a nice deep facing at the front makes them very comfortable indeed. I'll definitely be making a pair of these in linen for summer and probably some shorts once I've got the fit nailed. I'm in love with all the colours Heather has used for her samples; especially the little pink pair of shorts with the topstitching detail!

I needed a little break from sewing up scrubs for the NHS (if you'd like to volunteer your time to do so too then please take a look at the For the Love of Scrubs group on Facebook to find the co-ordinator for your area and more information) so turned to my ultimate sewing palette cleanser, the Ogden Cami from True Bias. It might seem a little nuts to take a break from sewing with more sewing but I just felt like I needed to sew something that wasn't scrubs for a moment and a quick and satisfying project which I'd made multiple times before fit the bill perfectly.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: TNT Patterns Ogden Cami

As I was sewing it up I was listening to the recent Love To Sew Podcast episode about TNT patterns and it got me thinking about what other patterns I turn to again and again. Either because they are so versatile, get worn so much or are a great blank canvas for pattern hacking. I'm sure many of you like me are turning to both fabric and pattern stashes for inspiration at the moment while we can't get out and about to shop and may be working with a reduced income. So I thought I'd share these trusty pattern favourites with you in the hope that you'll share yours too and perhaps in dong so inspire me to revisit some patterns I already own.

Tops

As I've already mentioned the Ogden Cami from True Bias is a pattern I've turned to again and again. I've lost track of the number of these tops I've made. It works out great in so many different fabrics. I used leftover linen from my Cielo Top for my most recent version but I've also used rayon, silk, velvet and cotton broderie. I've also lengthened the pattern into a dress and hacked it to have a square neckline and centre front button placket. I can sew one up including cutting in about an hour and a half so whenever I need a quick boost to the sewing mojo this is an ideal candidate.

Also from True Bias, the Nikko Top and Dress is my winter wardrobe staple. It has a lovely neat, modern fit with a perfectly proportioned turtleneck and again can be sewn up in an hour or so. I've made a couple of sleeveless versions, plus a sleeveless dress but my most worn garments are the long sleeved tops sewn up in merino jersey or a ribbed cotton knit (seen below with the Evie Bias Skirt).

Another winter wardrobe staple is the Mandy Boat Tee from Tessuti. It took me a while to get around to sewing up this popular free pattern download as I've never felt quite comfortable in loose fitting tops like this. But the slim sleeves and boat neck of this perfectly balance the amount of fabric around the body and it has become a firm favourite in my wardrobe.

The Emmeline Tee from Little Tailoress is a pattern I first made years ago but have found myself sporadically returning too time and time again. My first versions were made up in solid and patterned silks but my most worn version is in baby pink rayon. I recently used this pattern as a base for the hand sewn beaded overlay of my bridesmaids dress, simply cropping it and tweaking the construction to work with the fabric. I have another version planned with buttons and loops fastening across the shoulder seam.

Trousers

The Flint Trousers from Megan Nielsen are my all time favourite trouser pattern. The first pair of these I made were in a plain black thick but soft twill and I still live in them three years later. They see me through all seasons and seem to pair so well with multiple items in my wardrobe. They are so comfortable yet I always feel put together and somewhat stylish while wearing them. The checked linen shorts I've made from this pattern (pictured above with the Ogden Cami) are a summer favourite and I also made a chambray pair of the trousers which got cut off into shorts when I spilled ink on them! I most make another pair of the trousers to replace them.

Also from Megan Nielsen (her trousers just seem to work for me!) the Dawn Jeans have become my go to jeans pattern. I love the classic high rise and all the traditional jeans details. The fit is fantastic and the instructions are just as good. Plus the pattern includes four variations of leg styles. I've made shorts and straight leg jeans so far and have a pair of cropped wide leg cut out and ready to sew. Also on the wish list are a pair in heavy coloured linen.

Jumpsuits/Dresses

The Zadie Jumpsuit from Paper Theory kind of surprises me as an entry on this list as I think of it as less of a 'basics' pattern than some of the others. I guess the uniqueness of the design makes me think of it as something you wouldn't necessarily want to make over and over again yet I can't get enough of these in my wardrobe! My first version in striped blue cotton was hands down my most worn garment of the year last year and I recently made a sleeved version in tencel twill which has a completely different vibe. I'm currently working on one in a gorgeous burnt orange silk/linen blend and have plans to make a short version for summer.

I've made the Turia Dungarees from Pauline Alice twice and whilst I don't see myself making them again (how many pairs of dungarees do I really need in my wardrobe?!) these two get endless amounts of wear in the summer months. They are so practical and comfortable, especially made up in linen and for me they are just the right amount of relaxed.

It is interesting to me that no dress patterns really sprang to mind as TNT patterns for this post. I definitely think the dresses section of my wardrobe needs more work! My pink knit version of the Inari Tee Dress from Named Clothing is one of my favourite dresses and is very easy to wear. I think this could be a good candidate for repeat makes! The Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress and Sewaholic Lonsdale Dress are also designs I've made more than one of.

Skirts

Just the one pattern for this category as I find myself wearing trousers and jump-suits more and more often over the last couple of years. The Evie Bias Skirt from Tessuti was an absolute winner for me the first time I made it. It is chic and simple and so easy to dress up or down and carry through the season with layering. I've made one in a burgundy polkadot crepe and another in a bold floral stain back crepe so far but there will definitely be more in the future.

Layering

I found this category quite tricky as there are SO many outerwear patterns I just adore but have only made once as they are quite lengthy, fabric and notions heavy projects which you don't really need more than one of in your wardrobe. What I do need a lot of though are sweaters and cardigans!

I have worn my black merino sweat shirting version of the Toaster Sweater #2 from Sew House Seven so much it is completely falling apart. My maroon version actually did fall apart and I recently replaced it with a warm coffee coloured marl merino double knit. These are all I need sweater-wise all year round.

I've made the MIY Collection Longley Cardigan a couple of times for myself but also a couple of times for others too! This is a great pattern to make for other people as the sizes are fairly broad (I think just S-XL covering a number of dress sizes each) and you don't need to be pernickety about fit. It is a great basic but still interesting with that waterfall front. My favourite spring/summer outfit is actually a pair of Flint Trousers, with an Ogden Cami and a Longley Cardigan layered on top.

Sportswear

I haven't made a huge amount of sportwear but I absolutely adore the Sewaholic Pacific Leggings and have made at least four pairs of them now! My first pair were made over four years ago and with a few repairs are still going strong now. The waistband sits really comfortably and they suit all kind of activities. I've made the long length and the cropped but am yet to get particularly creative with the colour blocking opportunities those style lines provide...perhaps that should be next on the list!

I've really enjoyed thinking this through and mulling over pattern hacks and fabric combinations to fill gaps in my wardrobe. When a pattern works for you why make anything else?! Thanks for the inspiration Helen and Caroline...a fair few of my choices were on your lists too! Are any of my choices on your list too? I'd love to know what your TNT patterns are.

The project I'm sharing with you today is from Wendy Ward's new book 'Sewing Basics for Every Body', published by CICO Books. It is a beautiful book of clean, modern garments packed with interesting design details. It includes 5 patterns for core basics providing 20 different garments - although with the variety of options on offer I think you could make a lot more! I think what I love most about it is that all the garments are unisex and are modelled by both men and women in the garment photos. It is so wonderful to see this kind of inclusivity and it is a refreshing way to look at garment design and sewing. Why do garments need to be gendered? Clothes are for 'Every Body' as Wendy says in the title and we are all free to make our own fashion choices and style them how we like.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Caramel Twill Kim Jumpsuit Boilersuit from Sewing Basics for Every Body by Wendy Ward

I chose to make the Kim Jumpsuit; opting for the long-sleeved boiler suit style variation of this pattern which you might recognise from the front cover of the book. I just can't resist a jumpsuit. I loved the classic details of this and how it looked styled differently on the models. It is actually a combination of the Rowan Shirt and Harper Pants patterns from earlier in the book, with a few tweaks. I made this with the plan to add belt loops at the waistline as I didn't think I'd ever wear something as roomy as this without some definition around the waist. However, I love it both belted and not so have left the belt loops off for now to see how I wear it most. Wendy's pattern cutting is ace. This is roomy but fits just the way it should.

The fabric was kindly provided by Fabworks, who I haven't ordered from before. I was really impressed with their service and the wide range of fabrics available. I had a hard time choosing! The process was made easier by the very generous sized swatches they sent out. It was so nice to be able to get a real feel for how the cloth feels and moves with an 8" x 5" sample. I found the online descriptions give a very accurate idea of what to expect. I was toying with some blues and some lighter-weight almost shirting type fabrics but in the end plumped for the Peachy Soft Stretch Twill in Caramel. This is actually the fabric I was initially most drawn to as theres nothing else like it in my wardrobe and I could envision how well the jumpsuit would sew up in it.

The fabric is perfect for this kind of project. The caramel tone with the pronounced twill weave screams vintage workwear. I'd say it is a mid weight twill which has some structure but still retains a softness. The right side of the fabric has this lovely soft sort of brushed feel to it but I actually used the reverse as the right side as the colour is slightly richer. It has a little bit of stretch to it which didn't matter for this jumpsuit but might come in useful for comfort in other styles. It sewed up absolutely beautifully; the stitches sort of sink in and it holds a nice pressed edge well - essential when sewing all those crisp shirt details.

I'll be honest, once I had my pattern and fabric chosen I was excited about making this but I had some doubts about how 'me' the finished article would be and how much wear I would get out of it. But I absolutely love it! I feel like a 1940s land girl and can definitely see myself down the allotment or rummaging through a costume store in it.

I don't often sew up garments from books so the unfamiliarity of this process really made me slow down and engage my brain which I actually enjoyed as I'm so used to sewing without really thinking nowadays. One of the things that puts me off of books is tracing out the patterns from the chase of the overlaid pattern sheets in the back. This time around I actually didn't mind it. It was certainly no more time consuming to trace this pattern off than it would have been to print and assemble the PDF. The pieces for each pattern are printed in different colours which makes it easy to identify which bits you need without missing details such as notches. Each sheet is clearly labelled with which pieces it includes too. A hot tip for you if you are tracing off patterns from layered sheets like this is don't forget to trace off the grainline! I did this a couple of times as it is easy to miss amongst everything else going on on the pattern sheet.

To achieve the plethora of variations included with each pattern (and to combine the two patterns to make this jumpsuit) you often need to make some alterations to the pattern pieces. The alterations are all fairly simple and are clearly explained with written instructions. I actually really enjoyed this process as it makes you feel involved in the creation and design of your garment instead of blindly following cutting and sewing instructions. There are A LOT of choices to make with each pattern (from collar styles and sleeve lengths all the way down to seam finishing techniques) which means you can really make these garments your own. The garments are definitely worth the prep work and thought at the start.

Throughout the process you need to flip back and forth through the book quite a bit. Something I made more complicated for myself by diving right in with a more complex pattern which combined two of the previous patterns. I was flipping between instructions for the jumpsuit, instructions for the shirt, instructions for the pants as well as the instructions for the standard sewing techniques (such as pockets, collars e.t.c) at the start of the book. I found it useful to put a few post its in as page savers to make finding the right section easier. As you work through the instructions it does say which page you need to turn to for more information. If you've got a bit of sewing under your belt I don't think this will prove problematic and not writing out the same instruction for each pattern in turn is certainly a space saver in the book. However, a beginner might find themselves a bit lost along the way and potentially missing a step without the instructions being written out in order.

When writing a book like this you are limited on words yet this one is jam packed with tips to make you a better sewer; things like shortening your stitch length around curves and how to mark the spacing of buttonholes correctly rather than relying on the markings on the pattern piece which might not be right for you. It seems there is always more for even experienced stitchers to learn - why had I never before tried marking my stitching line to follow around that tricky collar stand?! Wendy's construction methods, tips and Rowan pattern make shirt sewing feel so straightforward. It was such a pleasure to work with a pattern which came together just as it should, no problems.

I particularly liked the way the tower plackets on the sleeve are constructed. The pattern piece for these is marked with notches and marks for tailors tacks so you can use these to accurately mark all your folding, cutting and stitching lines. I've never been a fan of using carbon paper and a tracing wheel which is what I usually have to resort to for these markings so it was refreshing to be able to neatly draw it out in a different way. Wendy also has you do all the folding and pressing before the placket is attached to the sleeve rather than as you go. This is so much less fiddly! There is a ready pressed line waiting for you and everything sort of falls into place when you turn the placket through to the right side. If you're after a classic shirt pattern I can highly recommend trying the Rowan from this book.

I love a wooden button and like how these add to the practical vibe of this boiler suit. I believe I got these in John Lewis. They came on little cards of three. I was into the swing of making unique design choices by the time it came to sewing on the buttons so chose to sew the last button on with red thread for a touch of individuality. I added a bit of topstitching here as most workwear garments use flat felled or topstitched seams for strength. I used a lightweight fusible interfacing as I wanted to keep some of the softness in the fabric.

I'll definitely be sewing more from this book, perhaps even more Kim Jumpsuits as there are still so many more options to try out! I'm also very interested in the Felix Sweatshirt which can be turned into a hoodie, bomber jacket or t-shirt too. I'm second on this tour of reviews of the book and I'm looking forward to seeing what everyone else makes now I've seen the creative freedom the patterns and variations provide you with. Make sure to check out the other projects!

After my last post reviewing a project made from a sewing book I've got something else a little out of the ordinary from me today; a project from a sewing magazine! These are the Jasmin Trousers from the latest edition of Fibre Mood. Each edition of the magazine contains around 14-15 sewing and knitting patterns, some with multiple variations. When browsing through those included with issue 9 the Jasmin Trousers jumped out as effortlessly chic and wearable and also interesting to sew with that paper-bag style waist and belt.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Fibre Mood Jasmin Trousers in Houndstooth Wool from The New Craft House

From afar they look like a solid purple/grey colour but they are in fact made with a black, red and ivory houndstooth wool suiting from The New Craft House. My original plan was to use some pale pink linen but I was worried that the wrinkly, rumpled nature of linen wouldn't suit this paperboy style. I felt like it needed something a little sleeker with a tighter structure that would hold the shape well. Then I remembered this suiting which I've been eyeing up for ages! I was considering buying some to make some BHL Jackie Trousers (and realised that it IS in fact the fabric used for one of their samples!) and also really loved Rosie's version of the Utu Pinafore made up in it. Luckily they are still shipping during the pandemic and had some left in stock. All of the fabric at The New Craft House is deadstock (left over from collections by local designers) so you can shop knowing you're doing your bit for the planet too.

I would call this a medium weight suiting fabric as it has thickness and some body but it still retains a nice drape and movement. It is beautiful quality. I washed it in the machine on a gentle 30 degree cycle and pressed it with a medium iron and it has come out lovely and smooth. I did fin using a clapper beneficial to get nice flat seams as the fabric has a bit of bounce to it. I'd already assembled my PDF pattern and was therefore able to figure out that you need much less fabric than the instructions suggest if you are making one of the smaller sizes. I managed to get these out of 1.5m of 160cm wide fabric. I added interfacing to the top edge of the front and back pattern pieces which is folded down to make a facing along the waistline. I felt like that paperboy waist could benefit from a bit of structure to create nice crips pleats. If you need to do that too depends slightly on your fabric choice. I also interfaced one side of the belt to help that retain a nice shape and not go too floppy.

I initially got on really well with the pattern (apart from the measurements all being supplied in cm which always throws me off a little!). I really liked the layout of the instructions and preparation information. It was all very clear. I thought the instructions were thorough without being overwhelmingly so. I think they've got them just right. I particularly liked the use of colour in the illustrations to make it really clear what was the right and left front when assembling the fly and where the interfacing goes. On the pattern pieces themselves there are different shaped notches in different places which I've never seen before and is an interesting technique to avoid confusion. V-shaped notches, single notches and double notches.

The only thing I did find confusing about the pattern pieces themselves is the marking of the seam allowance, so you have a line marking the stitching line and a line marking the raw edge. Once you've got all the sizes overlaid that is a lot of lines and notches to get muddled between! I've never used pattern pieces to check the size of seam allowance, always used the instructions so this seams a little unnecessary. The markings for the tailors tacks were also a little hard to identify for the different sizes but I managed to figure it out! I did feel like some of the marking points referred to in the instructions were missing from the pattern pieces (in particular for the fly and on the front pieces for the pockets) and would be interested to know if anyone else found this too? Also on the list of supplies there is a snap but no mention of applying it in the instructions that I could see. I presumed this is for the waist above the zip as it felt like it needed something to hold it closed there.

As I discussed in my last post I haven't made many garments from books because I find tracing off patterns from the overlapping and very confusing pattern sheets very confusing! It is the same with sewing magazines. However, the beauty of Fibre Mood is that all their patterns are available to download and print off as PDFs too! I'm sure the process of assembling the PDF takes just as long if not longer than tracing but the more familiar PDF process just feels easier to me. The option to buy the PDF of the pattern is great if you don't want the full magazine and some patterns are available in paper format too!

I cut the size 10 and then took a little more out of the back darts to make the waist more of an 8. If you're going to take the waist in like this I'd be hesitant about taking in too much as the fly zip is quite short and so you might struggle to get the waist over your bum to put them on! Speaking of the fly, I found the method a little confusing as it was unfamiliar and you have the facing to deal with and the result isn't perfect but wearable. I had to use a purple zip as that was all I had and lockdown means no zip shopping for me!

Every time I've tried out a paper-bag style waist before it has felt quite bulky and unflattering but the waist of this is nice and controlled and they feel really chic. The instructions have you hand tack the pleats and darts down along the waistline after you have pressed them to one side so everything sits as it should. I didn't get on with the instructions for the pockets at all and am not particularly happy with the finishing of them. This fabric frays quite a lot which made these fiddly bits even more frustrating. I resorted to hand tacking my pocket bags in place too to get them to sit correctly when the trousers are worn. There's also a little bit of hand stitching involved in the fly and turn ups, all well worth the effort to get a beautifully finished garment. If I make these again I'll probably shorten the belt by about six inches or so and possibly take a little off the length for a more cropped look. I might also rethink some of the construction techniques and do my own thing with the pockets or omit them altogether.

There's something about this combination of red and black houndstooth and the gold d-rings paired with this style of trouser that says 1980s power dressing to me! Never thought I'd want that in my wardrobe but I love it! The d-rings I ordered from Stoff & Stil (along with some upholstery fabric of which they have a beautiful selection!) who are also still shipping as usual during the pandemic. The package took about a week to come from Denmark which I thought was pretty great. I chose to use a red thread to match the red in the houndstooth as weirdly this was the colour which blended in best.

The t-shirt I'm wearing I've never blogged about despite having sewn the pattern up multiple times now! It is the Basic InstincT from Sasha at Secondo Piano and has become my absolute go-to t-shirt pattern. It ticks so many boxes for me after years of trying out tee patterns and failing to find one I really loved. The slim but not fitted cut, crew neck and neat little short sleeves are all winners for me.

Ruby really wanted to get involved in this photoshoot haha!

The making of these trousers was not all plain sailing and there were points when I got a little frustrated at not being able to achieve the finish I would like but the end result was worth it. They are a beautifully cut pair of trousers, they fit lovely around the waist and seat and hang really nicely. I think they'd be really cute cut off into shorts. I will definitely be trying more Fibre Mood patterns, purely for the pattern cutting! In this fabric they have a slightly masculine tailoring, Katherine Hepburn vibe which I am really enjoying dressed down with a t-shirt and trainers like this. The neat fit at the waist and generous cut around the hips and legs is SO comfortable. These are going to be so useful for work when practicality and comfort are key but I also need to look professional and presentable.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Shelby Dress with Lacing Back in Viscose Twill from Guthrie & Ghani

Who watched the first episode of the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee last night?! I've worked on the show for the last three series as the fabric buyer and as part of the on set sewing team. We filmed this series last year and at the time I was SO inspired by Liz's nineties twist on the tea dress challenge using the True Bias Shelby Dress pattern. The Shelby pattern, with it's nineties vibe, had been on my radar for a little while but it was Liz's version which made me really fall in love with it.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Shelby Dress with Lace Back in Viscose Twill from Guthrie & Ghani

It took until last month for it to get made and find a place in my wardrobe as I had a hard time finding the fabric I wanted. I really wanted a viscose, the drape of which would make the most of the movement in that full panelled skirt. I also wanted a print rather than a solid but didn't want anything too twee and girly as the Shelby style is already quite feminine. Viscose prints I want to wear are very hard to come by! I mulled over a fair few from Fabric Godmother (who do stock a really good selection of viscose and rayon including their own vintage inspired prints) before stumbling upon just the thing on the Guthrie & Ghani stand at The Stitch Festival. This was only at the end of February but the thought of being at a big crowded event like that such a short time ago seems so surreal to me now.

I had initially thought I wouldn't want a floral but I feel in love with the deep, rich colours of this print when I spotted it on the shelf. Unfortunately I can't see it on their website so it must have sold out. It is a viscose twill and what is particularly nice about it is the weight and opacity. I'm always a little hesitant about buying rayon or viscose online as some (particularly crepes) can be really quite flimsy and sheer. I prefer a bit of body to my viscose and think some weight really adds to the beautiful movement. It was so nice to be able to look at this one in person at the show. It a joy to sew with this fabric and it is even more delightful to wear. It is cool and smooth against the skin and swishes about dramatically. I machine washed it on a 30 degree gentle cycle and so far it hasn't faded or pilled at all and it presses really well with a medium iron. I used a microtex 70 needle to sew this and it moved through the machine without much shifting about. It is worth taking your time cutting viscose and making sure everything is laid out flat and on grain as it is easy to end up with some misshapen pattern pieces.

I cut the size 4 and it feels comfortably roomy, if perhaps just slightly too roomy across the shoulders. This might have to do with my fabric choice as viscose and rayons fabrics are quite delicate and do tend to stretch out a bit as you sew but the finished garment measurements do indicate a fair bit of ease. If making again I might size down to a 2. To prevent stretching I was careful to stay-stitch the neckline and press only with an up and down movement of my iron rather than side to side. I cut the ankle length version and as I'm quite short I envisioned taking quite a chunk off the hem to make it more of a midi length but once it was sewn up I loved it just as it was.

This dress is a bit of a fabric eater but no where near as much as the fabric requirements chart suggests. My memory is a little hazy but I believe I bought 3m of this fabric and managed to squeeze it out. I used a lightweight fusible interfacing on the facings and the buttons are some beautiful shell ones from my stash. My mum (and absolute hero nursing on the wards at the moment) bought them for me years ago and as she's a big fan of Peaky Blinders I'm sure she'll be pleased that they have been used on such an appropriately named dress.

The dress is formed of eight long panels which flare out into the skirt with a facing to finish the centre front opening. There is no waist seam but shaping is provided by a tie in the back which is inserted between the back and side back panels. When I was looking at inspiration for this dress I spotted a really interesting hack on the True Bias blog for a lace up back and opted to add that in. It was really quick and fun to do and I love the finished look - although it is quite difficult to see in a photograph when sewn in this print! You make the ties as usual but join them into one long separate tie. Then you make six little rouleau loops which you insert into the side back seams instead of the ties. I centred one of the loops on the notch marking where to attach the ties, and one above and one below this. I think this is a little lower than where Kelli placed them on her sew-along version.

There are two styles of sleeve to choose from, a classic short sleeve or a cap sleeve with a curvier bottom edge. I went for the cap sleeve but slightly wish I'd gone with the traditional version as I think it better suits that 90s grunge feel.

Like Liz I added two slits by leaving the bottom of the seams between the centre front and side front panels open below the knee. I think I could have actually made these slits a little bit longer to match the length of the opening beneath the last button at the centre front. Liz got it just right! To finish the slits nicely I sewed the seam, backstitching a few times at the top of the slit for strength. I finished the seam allowances on the overlocker then pressed the seams open before topstitching around the edge of the slit to secure the seam allowances down. To add strength at the top of the slit where it might pull as I walk I added a bar tack.

As I've come to expect with True Bias patterns it was a really enjoyable sew and I had no problems whatsoever with the pattern or instructions. Everything comes together just as it should and I didn't change anything about the construction methods. The pattern comes with the option to make it into a romper and I'd love to make a short romper version for summer; cute and practical!

The Hannah Dress from By Hand London has been on my radar since it was released last year and has proved to be a very popular choice so far this Me Made May. I love a wrap style; so flattering and easy to wear and sew too without any buttons or zips to fiddle around with! I have had trouble previously with getting wrap necklines to sit right on me and therefore before plunging in with a dress I opted to make the top/tunic version first. The top isn't illustrated on the pattern but there is a marking for the tunic length peplum on the skirt pattern pieces which I used. This is the exact length you're looking at here.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: By Hand London Hannah Wrap Dress Top in Atelier Brunette Viscose Twill

The fabric I've used is a beautiful viscose twill from Atelier Brunette. They very kindly gifted me two lengths from their Autumn 2019 collection shortly after release. This is the 'twig' design in the ochre colour-way. FYI their new Summer 2020 collection is absolutely exquisite! I've worked with Atelier Brunette fabrics previously and the quality is sublime. They feel so luxurious. The viscose twill is very fine with a beautiful drape and buttery soft hand. All their viscose has a really elegant sheen to it. The lightweight, shifty nature of these fabrics can make them a little tricky to work with but I recommend patience, stay-stitching and lots of fine pins and the results will be worth it!

I made the UK 10 which is pretty much bang on my measurements and is the BHL size I usually make. It has come out slightly big all over which might be to do with this fine and delicate viscose stretching out a little as I worked (despite my careful handling and stay-stitching!). I sort of wish I had made one in a crisp cotton something first to get a better idea of fit but I kind of like the overall rumpled and blousy effect in this billowing viscose! It has been a while since I've made a BHL pattern and I forgot that they are drafted for a slightly broader and longer shoulder than mine. I usually end up taking their patterns up through the shoulder slightly (so shortening the distance between the shoulder and bust) for a more secure fit and think this would have made the world of difference for this top.

As I was nervous about the depth of the neckline I added about 3/4" depth to the central point (where the v is deepest. I marked this point on my pattern pieces and marked 3/4" out from there on paper stuck behind and then drew a gradual curved line out so to nothing at the shoulder seam and waistline. This drapey, fluid fabric kind of flops down over the chest so I'm not sure that the alteration has made much difference but I think in a crisper more structured fabric the neckline would be fine. I don't feel at risk of full exposure but as I move around it is a little bit too booby for me! I will probably just add a small popper at the centre front neckline to help me feel more secure and in future versions I think my plan to take it up at the shoulder will solve this.

The long edge of the neckline is finished with a narrow bias tape facing. I only just managed to squeeze the top out of the 1.5m of fabric I had (those beautiful sleeves are fabric eaters!) so I had to use something else for the bias tape. I opted for the other fabric that Atelier Brunette had sent me; the viscose crepe in the exact same shade of navy as the twigs. I liked that the crepe had a similar weight to the twill so wouldn't effect the drape of the main fabric along the neckline. I love the contrasting pop on the inside of the garment but obviously had to be very careful when applying it so that none of it peeked out on the wrong side. I also stitched it down with navy thread in the needle and ochre thread in the bobbin so the stitching matched on both the right and wrong sides.

Speaking of thread colours I overlocked my internal seams and plumped for grey thread but don't love how it looks. I've always only kept black, white and grey overlocker thread cones as they seem to generally cover all bases between them and I don't have much storage space. But making this has made me wonder if I should add a rust/brown thread to my collection as I have been gravitating to warmer shades lately. How closely do you match your overlocker threads to your projects?

By Hand London does drama really well and these sleeves are no exception! The pattern comes with three sleeve styles; short, tulip and big bishops sleeves! They are certainly the talking point of this top. Definitely not altogether that practical (I wouldn't recommend cooking in this...trust me) but actually much easier to wear than I imagined and ever so glamourous. I love them and will definitely be using this pattern piece to add dramatic sleeves to a number of other patterns. I almost used the navy viscose for the sleeve ties as I thought it might make a nice contrast but I'm glad I stuck with the same fabric actually. I've seen people use elastic instead of the ties if that's your preference but you could also substitute in pretty ribbons for the ties so you don't have to make them. I spotted someone use organza ribbon the other day which is a lovely delicate romantic touch.

The difference with this style of wrap and a lot of others I have made is that there are two sets of ties to fasten (one at each side seam, inside on the right and outside on the left) which eliminates the hole in the side seam which one tie usually pulls through in order to wrap around the waist. I really like this but it does mean the fit is slightly less forgiving as you haven't got the flexibility of being able to just pull this a little tighter if it comes up a bit roomy. Jess from By Hand London made dress version recently for which she made the exterior ties bigger so there is a big bow on the waist which I love!

The instructions are good as I have come to expect with all By Hand London patterns. They are thorough without being overly detailed, they don't hold a beginner's hand but use good construction techniques which will leave you with a lovely finish. With it's multiple variations and hacking opportunities this is certainly a pattern I can see myself getting creative with in the future. I'm envisioning a tulip sleeved top and bishop sleeved cheesecloth dress at the moment but the inspiration seems endless...

The project I'm sharing with you today is a bit of a sewing fail. I don't often write a project off as a fail but persist until it turns into something that I can love and wear but I don't think there is anything I can do to save this one! I'll be writing it off as a toile that taught me a lesson and moving on.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Breaking the Pattern Solina Top in Atelier Brunette Viscose Crepe

The pattern (the Solina Top from the Breaking The Pattern book from Named Clothing) is gorgeous. And the fabric (a viscose crepe in a beautiful deep navy from Atelier Brunette) is equally gorgeous. They are unfortunately not so gorgeous together. The fault is entirely mine as I didn't read through and think through the construction of this top before taking the plunge. If I had done I would have realised that the style would benefit from a fabric with a bit more body and structure than this very delicate crepe. Looking at the images in the book I presumed that the top was loose fitting and cinched in at the waist by the ties. The ties are actually stitched into fixed pleats. This is great as it all sits correctly when you are wearing it but it is much more of a fitted style than first anticipated. I would have put more thought into the fitting if I had realised.

The Atelier Brunette viscose fabrics are absolutely exquisite in their luxurious delicacy and almost luminous sheen. They are perfect for billowing romantic designs which I mistook this for with the beautiful bows around the waist and cuffs. A viscose isn't entirely the wrong choice but this design requires something with more weight and substance like a viscose twill perhaps. The back of the top is fitted with a centre back invisible zip and two closed darts. In a fabric this lightweight the area around the zip really needs interfacing; mine ended up all stretched out and as the fit of the top is quite snug there are some unsightly wrinkles and twisting going on back there. A lesson has been learned in being too hasty!

I think the bows are very nice in a fabric with drape, although this particular fabric is a little limp and I'm wondering if they might have benefited from some interfacing. They would be wonderfully dramatic in something crisp and structured! Another thing to bear in mind when working with and Atelier Brunette crepe is that it has the most beautiful lustre but it really shows up every wrinkle and fold. You also need to be careful when pressing as it shows up every mark and seam allowance imprint if you are too vigorous.

With the 'Breaking The Pattern' theme the ladies at Named are encouraging us to get creative with a bit of pattern hacking and the patterns are designed to give you the freedom to play around with your own design choices. I can't say much pattern breaking went on for this top as I pretty much followed the instructions to the letter but one choice I did make was to include the slim stand collar. I deliberated over this choice for ages and think in the end I made the wrong one as a bit more skin on show at the neck might balance the design out better on my figure. What is unusual with the collar is that it is finished with a facing rather than folded under and topstitched or slipstitched down. You end up stitching in the ditch around the collar anyway so I think I'd do without the facing if I made this again.

As you might remember me saying in the post about my jumpsuit from Wendy Ward's book, I'm not a huge fan of sewing with patterns from books but both with this project and my previous I was pleasantly surprised with how quick and easy the tracing process was. Again I'd chosen a project which was a little further along in the book so I had to do a lot of cross referencing between instructions for other patterns to make this one up. It all got a bit confusing but turned out OK when I got into the swing of things. When working from a book I generally find the projects take a bit longer, especially the prep work and getting used to how to how the book works to find the info you need. This isn't necessarily a bad thing and I'm definitely trying to slow my sewing down and enjoy each stage of the process at the moment. Maybe more sewing from books is the way to go!

I cut the size 3 (UK10/EU 38) which is spot on my measurements and the size I always cut with Named patterns. It looked like this one included a generous amount of ease so I'm quite surprised by the closeness of the fit. It isn't too small though and the fit of the sleeves and across the shoulders is spot on for me. I generally get a good fit with their patterns and the only thing I ever adjust is the length as I'm quite petite. With this top I left the sleeve length as it was (a little long) as the ties keep them sitting in the right spot and I like the slight blouson effect created by the excess length. The length of the top itself I deliberated over as it looked quite short in the book. The amount of fabric I had allowed me to lengthen the pieces by 5" from the hemline (I had 1.5m of 140cm wide fabric) but I trimmed 4.5cm of this back off once I'd tried it on. I'm still not 100% sure on the length the hemline feels a bit blunt to me and no matter what height I made it it seemed to cut my torso off in a weird spot. Proportionally I think the length of this is in general is a bit off on my body shape as the pleats don't open out over the bust quite right either. I think I need to take a little of the length out above the waist. If I'm honest with myself I had my doubts about how much I would like this style on me when I started making it but I was sucked in by how much I loved it in the book and on everyone else!

I do think this style would look much more balanced on me as a dress and if I find the right fabric I may well give it a whirl and play around with the front pleats a little. This top has served me very well as a practice run of this design...even if the fabric was a little bit too special for a practice! While I await the right fabric falling in to my lap there are plenty of other designs in the beautiful book to keep me busy; the Halla Coat is on my list to sew for next winter and I adore the Rae Pants with the front splits. I think they would be great for beach attire. I can't get enough of that chic Named Scandi style!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: In The Folds Wrap Top from Peppermint Magazine in White Linen from The Fabric Store

The project I'm sharing with you today was so enjoyable to make. I don't know about you but I haven't had the concentration of late to get stuck in to an all day or even all afternoon sewing sessions. This project turned out to be the perfect antidote to feeling frustrated with that and I sewed it up across a number of half-hour/hour stints. As I've become more experienced and confident with sewing I think I've developed a tendency to dive right in and speed through things. But this pattern (despite being straightforward and not particularly taxing to construct) made me stop, think and try something new. Trying something new and enjoying the process always makes me fall a little bit in love with sewing all over again. Plus at the end of the process I've made something I'm really proud of and I think improved my techniques slightly too.

This Wrap Top Pattern is one of the impressive selection of In The Folds patterns free to download from Peppermint Magazine. I'd heard really good things about Emily's drafting and instructions and after making this I would certainly agree with them! I'm kind of gobsmacked that this is a free pattern along with so many other gorgeous and well thought out designs. I'm particularly tempted by the Wide Leg Pants. The new patterns released with the magazine are now being produced by other indie designers but most of the back catalogue are Emily's.

For my first try of this pattern I opted for a classic white linen from The Fabric Store. If you're after a good supplier of quality linen I can't recommend them enough. The range of weights, colours and yarn dyed patterns is amazing. This is their standard mid-weight linen and is a great choice for this top. It would sew up equally beautifully in a drapey fabric like a viscose crepe but I love that the line provides a bit of structure. The rumpled quality suits the wrap style I think and is already softening up so nicely with wear. It was also an absolute joy to work with.

As I've said I loved that the instructions and construction techniques really encourage you to slow down, enjoy the process and create a beautifully finished garment. I've tried to include a section of clear close up photos of the inside in particular so you can appreciate the level of finishing the instructions provide. There is no need for an overlocker for this project as french seams are instructed throughout where possible; even the armholes are french seamed! Indeed the only place I did use my overlocker was to finish the raw edge of the back neckline facing but this could easily have been turned under and stitched instead. How the facing is attached cleanly at the shoulder is a different technique to those I have used before and I love it.

I really liked that the finishing is coherent across the garment. Where you can't french seam the side seam which needs an opening for the wrap ties you are given the option to turn them under and stitch down instead (option B). This looks so smart and I think ties in with the french seams nicely. You are directed to french seam he other side seam to match the seams on the rest of the top but I used the same turn under and stitch finish as I preferred matching topstitching on both side seams.

My only niggle with the instructions is that I got a bit confused with the size of the seam allowance. It varies throughout and rather than being stated at the start says it is noted in each step. Sometimes it wasn't clear, particularly when sewing french seams. I thought this might be because you are pointed towards a 'Seam Finishes' download when sewing french seams. A great informative document but it still left me a bit worried that I was taking too big or small a seam allowance. I came to the conclusion that the french seams have a 1.2cm seam allowance TOTAL (1/2") after spotting notches on the pattern pieces marking the stitching line seam allowance size.

I am really impressed with the drafting. Everything came together just as expected. The fit is really nice too. It isn't a close fitting wrap top if that is what you are after. There is quite a bit of ease around the bust but the shoulders fit neatly and the cut of the sleeves I think really balance out the proportions. The only thing I might tweak is to shorten it ever so slightly through the body as once the wrap is tied there it feels like it rides up a little and there is slightly too much excess fabric in the back.

Looking at the sample garment I felt like the neckline was a little too high for me personally so I lowered it by an inch. I took an inch off all the way along the centre front which meant adjusting the back and back facing pieces too as it creates a wider neckline. I also continued the inch reduction all the way along the front ties to make them a little skinny as that is more aesthetically pleasing to me and I didn't want to much bulk around the waist. I was worrying while I sewed it up that this would now be too low but it has turned out spot on for me. For a wrap top I'm so impressed with how this sits across the front. I don't feel at risk of exposure at all.

Making this has definitely made me more inclined to make a purchase of an In The Folds pattern. (That is after I've sewn up my next version of this top which I've already cut out!) I've often been intrigued by the interesting style lines and clean, wearable design aesthetic. The Acton Dress really appeals to me but the Flynn Jacket has also grabbed my attention. If you've made any In The Folds patterns I'd love to hear which and what you made of them to help me make my choice!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Haptic Lab Constellation Quilt Hand Embroidery

It's finally finished!! This is the DIY Constellation Quilt from Haptic Lab and it has to be my longest WIP to date. My mum bought it for me more than three years ago. It hasn't taken me this long through lack of enjoyment but more being overwhelmed by other projects to complete in the mean time. Speedier projects seem to feel much more urgent than this slow paced labour of love. I made good progress when I first began it years ago then work got busy and it languished in a corner. A week on the sofa with a sprained ankle a year later saw another burst of progress but work ground to a halt when all I had left was the Milky Way of hundreds of french knots. I haven't done a huge amount of embroidery but have always enjoyed a bit of cross stitch and french knots were my nemesis. I couldn't muster up the enthusiasm to pick this quilt back up when all that was left waiting for me was hours of french knotting but lockdown gave me the final kick up the bum I needed. I've absolutely conquered my fear of the french knot and dare I say I even enjoyed them!

This is actually the second Haptic Lab quilt I have completed as I made the New York map quilt for my sister about 5 years ago. I was really pleased with how that one turned out but definitely feel like I have 'levelled up' my hand quilting this time around. I think my stitching is a lot neater and more accurate and I managed to keep the back reasonably neat and tidy too. I'm really proud of it and am actually quite inspired to start another one! They have kits for maps of lots of different cities (mainly US and Canada but London and Paris too) plus a map of the world. I've just seen that they are now offering print-at-home versions which is very tempting! As well as the DIY kits they sell completed quilts and I'm really in love with the National Parks quilts. Fingers crossed they might bring those out in a DIY version.

The DIY kit is essentially a map of the quilt printed on to tear-away paper. You layer up your backing fabric, batting and top fabric and lay the tissue out on top. Then you safety pin through all the layers at various points and you are ready to sew. You sew straight through the tissue and tear it away at the end. So satisfying! The sewing instructions are limited and quite vague so I made my own decisions about techniques to use on different lines. It might look like quite a daunting project but actually once you've got your stitches figured out are quite straightforward and therapeutic to work on. I've really enjoyed whiling away some of the lockdown hours in front of some mindless TV with this on my lap. They certainly do take up some hours though. A couple of people have asked me how many hours I have put in to this and I've really got no idea! I'd love to know so if I do another one I'll have to keep a record. This is the regular size quilt by the way. They also do a large size but I feel like the regular is a nice manageable size to sew.

As I noted when I made the New York quilt, there is so much room for creativity when sewing these up. To start with you can have a lot of fun when picking the colour combination of fabric and thread and you can also use different colours and types of thread in different areas. I like that for the map quilts the Haptic Lab team suggest getting creative and marking on personal landmarks like relative's houses or buildings in the city which mean something to you. For this quilt I stuck with a classic starry night look though and I also opted to leave off the constellation names. Check out Jaskia's version of this quilt though! Her colour choices make it so entirely different.

I started this such a long time ago that I can't remember where I got all the various materials now but the front is a fairly fine deep navy cotton sateen. I love that it has a slight sheen to it and the intense colour which seems so right for a night sky. The back is a quilting cotton in a slightly different blue and I used the same batting as last time - Hobbs Heirloom Premium Cotton Quilt Batting. I would really recommend it as a good thickness for hand quilting. I had a shop bought binding squirrelled away for the edge which I'm really pleased with the colour of. If you want to do the same you'll need to make sure it is at least 4cm wide when folded out flat to give you a decent width of bound edge.

For the construction lines I used a Gutermann 100% cotton hand quilting thread in navy. For the majority of them I did a simple running stitch but for thicker circle running around the stars I used two strands of the thread and a backstitch to make it denser. For the constellations I chose a metallic silver DMC embroidery thread. I love the effect of this but it did have a tendency to get tangled up more than non metallic threads. This was not going to be fun at all for all those french knots so for the Milky Way I used a pearly white regular embroidery thread. I chose to only take the navy stitching through to the back side of the quilt. Although one or two silver and white stitches have made their way back there too! The more I sewed the better I got at avoiding mistakes like this.

I've got a big embroidery hoop but found it got in the way a bit when I was doing the constellations themselves as you quite quickly cover a fair bit of distance and find yourself at the edge of the hoop. Having to move it every five minutes was a bit of a pain so some times I opted to do without. Probably very naughty of me but I found it a lot easier this way! The hoop was absolutely invaluable when doing the french knots though as they are so much easier to manage on a nice taut surface.

To bind the edges I followed this tutorial although there are lots of almost identical tutorials online. it is very straightforward to do and achieves a lovely neat finish with mitred corners. You stitch the binding on by machine when attaching it to the front and for this I used my walking foot to avoid the layers of the quilt being stretched out unevenly as I sewed. Once attached to the front you fold it over the raw edge to the rear and stitch the folded edge of the binding down by hand. You might think that after all that hand sewing in the quilt itself I would have had enough of it but I actually really enjoyed this part and it was quite speedy to do. Perhaps because it was the most familiar and well practiced technique for me in the whole quilt as it was just like sewing a hem.

This quilt was a learning process and certainly hasn't turned out perfect but I'm delighted with it none the less. When I was finishing up the binding I added a Kylie and the Machine 'imperfect' label. It seemed to fit the bill just right. I love the idea of declaring the imperfections; for me they are a really beautiful thing and what makes this quilt unique. A sign of the effort and love that went into making this with my own two hands.

If asked if I usually start a project with the pattern or the fabric I'd say pattern 90% of the time. I don't often buy fabric without a specific garment in mind but this is one of those fabrics I just couldn't resist and ended up on a hunt for the perfect pattern to pair it with. Viscose is one of my absolute favourite fabrics to sew with and wear. It is comfortable, breathable, drapes beautifully and is not too fancy to wear day to day. Whenever I see it in a wearable print I love I snap it up. I had a little preview of the new additions to Fabric Godmother's range of reproduction vintage prints at a trade show earlier this year and fell head over heels in love with this one. My obsession must have been obvious as Josie offered to send me some to sew up when the new designs were released.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Fibre Mood Mira Dress in Fabric Godmother Jackie Vintage Viscose Lawn

This is the Jackie print in pink on a viscose lawn base. There are a variety of bases in the range; all viscose but some weaves are heavier than others and therefore have a slightly different feel and body. The lawn is definitely on the lighter weight end of things and has the tight fine weave you would expect from a quality cotton lawn. This tight weave gives it the most exquisite smooth hand and slightly buttery finish that feels so luxurious and cool against the skin. It is so fine and delicate that it is slightly sheer and you do need to be careful of it stretching out of shape as you sew, particularly around the neckline which I added stay stitching to. To stop things shifting out of shape when cutting I used lots of fine entomology pins (mine are from Merchant & Mills) to keep the pattern pieces in place without ruining it with big holes. You could use a rotary cutter and weights to keep the fabric in place and flat to the table but I feel like I get more control and a more accurate cut when using pins and good shears.

For reference I pre-washed this fabric on a 30 degree delicate cycle in the machine, which is how I treat all viscose. Washing hasn't altered the hand or finish of the fabric at all and the colours are just as rich. I used a medium heat steamy iron which worked really well.

When the fabric arrived I had remembered the colours being slightly fresher and more vibrant than they are in reality. But I'm actually really glad they're not as in my opinion that makes this print so much more versatile. The more muted colours feel right for all seasons and definitely have a more vintage feel. What drew me to this print initially is that it clearly brings 1930s/40s tea dresses to mind yet has a really contemporary vibe to it as well because of the bold floral motif and use of black. Despite being pinkie doesn't feel girly or twee; just my kind of floral. After doing a bit of research into colour theory earlier this year I've discovered that warmer, autumnal hues suit me much better then fresh, cool pastels. At first I thought this meant pink was not a good choice for me but THIS muted dusky pink has a definite warmth to it which really works. Especially with that red dotted through.

I toyed with lots of pattern ideas for this fabric, I wanted something which would literally drape me in the fabric and billow around as I moved to show the fabric off at it's best. I considered a Wilder Gown, Hannah Dress and Ravine Dress before remembering that the Mira Dress from Fibre Mood Magazine had been on my to-make list for a long time. It is a fairly simple style with a neat, sleeved, empire line bodice and voluminous gathered skirt. I think these fairly non fussy styles without too many finicky details are always a good choice when working with a bold print. The fabric is the star of the show.

This fabric was calling to me to be turned into something dramatic and while the flare of Mira has some element of romantic drama I decided to add to it by adding a third gathered tier to the skirt and make it midi length. Whilst this beautiful breezy style is perfect for the warmer months I can absolutely see me layering this up and wearing it with tights and ankle boots in the autumn/winter. The existing bottom tier of the skirt uses two panels of the full width of your fabric and whilst I could have made an even wider tier out of three panels I felt the two panel version was about as full as I wanted to go. So I my third tier is actually inserted between the existing two and the panels are halfway between the top and bottom tier sizes. I added the height of all the panels and bodice together and measured to see where this length would hit on me. I felt I could do with it being a little longer so added 2" to my new skirt tier.

The dress is quite straightforward to construct; it is essentially a simple dart-less bodice which has a key hole opening at the centre back neckline, fastening with a hook and eye and a skirt formed of gathered rectangles. It would be quite a speedy project if it wasn't for all that endless gathering! I think gathering is my least favourite sewing technique. I think I'll probably revisit this pattern again as the simple construction leaves a lot of room to play around with different necklines, sleeves and even skirt styles.

Using a bias tape facing is fast becoming my favourite way to finish a neckline and I really liked how the instructions for this dress easily achieve a clean finish at the centre back opening. The technique also has you under-stitch the bias tape before you turn it to the wrong side which I always think produces the tidiest finish you can get. I was so pleased with how this turned out I decided to add one of my precious Kylie and the Machine labels!

The most annoying thing that happened while making this dress was that I realised half way through cutting that seam allowances aren't included. They need to be added to your pattern pieces and the seam allowances are slightly different widths in different places on the pattern so that takes a bit of time to figure out and do. I jumped straight in without checking the seam allowances as when I made the Fibre Mood Jasmin Trousers recently they were included (and marked) on the pattern pieces. Mira was in an issue of the magazine released a good while back and I was sent it ahead of release so perhaps Fibre Mood have changed how they do seam allowances since then. I decided that the lack of seam allowance didn't really matter with the skirt pieces as they would just be very fractionally less gathered up and luckily I had only cut the back of the bodice and had enough fabric left to re-cut it. It also gave me another whirl at pattern matching the centre back seam which still isn't quite perfect but I'm happy enough!

I wrote in my Jasmin Trousers post that it was quite tricky to differentiate between some of the markings for different sizes on the pattern pieces and have since been informed that if you use Adobe Acrobat Reader to print your PDF you can use the layers function to print only the size(s) you need. So much easier!

I had 3m of fabric which was plenty for this dress in the size 38. At 142cm wide it was JUST wide enough to fit the bottom tier skirt panels on. The size 38 is bang on my bust measurement. This particular pattern only includes bust and height measurement as really the only area that needs to fit well is the upper chest and shoulders. I'm quite pleased with the fit in this area but for some reason I expected it to fit a little neater under the arm the flare out. The cut of sleeve feels like it should fit into an armhole which sits closer to the body and I feel like I could have got away with using my pieces which didn't have seam allowance after all. I think it is just a new shape for me that will take a bit of getting used to! Overall I think Fibre Mood have got the oversized, bohemian feel of this just right. Being petite I find it easy to feel overwhelmed in these diaphanous styles with lots of fabric. I think keeping the sleeves reasonably slim and unfussy like these really helps to balance out the volume of the body.

Having no shape though the waist is a departure from my usual style and I considered adding ties at the empire waistline like I did with my Myosotis Dresses but now I've worn this about the house a little I'm really starting to enjoy the effortless, relaxed style of this design. I think a super lightweight diaphanous fabric like this is the perfect match for this pattern. I'm looking forward to the warmer temperatures next week so I can waft about in this and my handmade sandals!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Refashioned Embroidered Tablecloth to Helen's Closet Ashton Top Hack

This top would have been my contribution to The Refashioners 2020 which has unfortunately but understandably been cancelled this year. I had already completed my project and wanted to share it with you all as (despite not being the most dramatic refashion ever) it really pushed me outside my sewing comfort zone and I'm hoping it might inspire some of you to give it a try too!

Portia's yearly refashioning challenge started back in 2011 and carries an important message, encouraging sewers to look at fabric and clothing in a new light. I try to make careful choices when it comes to the fabric I use and how it has been produced. Despite turning away from fast fashion and making my own clothes I am aware that my fabric consumption has its own impact on the environment. One of the best ways to care for our planet and sew sustainably is to reuse and repurpose textiles which already exist. The theme for this year's challenge was planned to be 'use what you have' which felt a little more accessible to me as a newbie refashioner as you can use household items with large flat surface areas of fabric like bedding, curtains and tableware.

I was still really daunted by this challenge. I've always thought I that the transformation challenge on The Great British Sewing Bee would be my downfall. When I cook I'm not the kind of cook who throws things in to a pan on instinct...I like a recipe! My creative brain just does not seem to think in that way. So I eased in to my first refashion by using a tablecloth. Despite being a flat piece of fabric I really tried my best to make the most of what the table cloth gave me; right down to using one of the loops of edge stitching as the loop for my button at the centre back neckline. In the spirit of 'use what you have' the covered button I had stashed away, salvaged from an old RTW top.

When I moved to Dorking last summer I had a huge sort out and only brought with me things I thought I really needed so I didn't have any spare textiles asking to be refashioned. Instead I turned to eBay as my source of unwanted textiles. I've long been a fan and follower of the work of embroidery artists on Instagram like Tessa Perlow who embroiders on to existing garments to transform them into unique worn works of art. However, I've never been able to find the time or patience to do this kind of work myself. This project is sort of a cheats way of achieving a hand embroidered top, by using an already embroidered textile!

I chose this tablecloth because I fell in love with the embroidery. I haven't found a single flaw in the beautiful symmetrical handwork. I felt kind of awful cutting in to it but focused on the fact that all that work is being appreciated and given another life. I loved the colours of it and that it was quite big and bold, plus the embroidered green border added another element to play with. But what really sold it to me was how the embroidery was arranged in clear quarter and semi-circular sections. I enjoyed figuring out how to place those to their best advantage on the top and use as much of the embroidery as possible. I'm really pleased with how it turned out. I think my favourite part is the back with those big arcs of floral embroidery meeting in the middle.

I made the refashioning project feel a little more manageable to me by starting with a pattern rather than diving straight in to draping or cutting something from scratch. Baby steps! However, I did fully flex my pattern hacking muscles to make the design of the top much closer to my inspiration. Pinterest is still one of my favourite ways to collect inspiration for my sewing projects and over the last year or so I've pinned numerous boxy little tops with interesting details and style lines. The simplicity of the example below really grabbed me.

I considered using the free tank tutorial from Fabrics-Store.com (they have a tonne of great resources, patterns and tutorials on their website FYI) but ultimately decided I did want a bit of shaping in the bust. I was torn between the Afternoon Lyra Tank and the Ashton Top from Helen's Closet. I ended up plumping for the Ashton because it seemed to have a lot of mileage in it with options for an all in one facing or bias faced neckline and all sorts of hacks popping up online. When I'm splashing out on a pattern I like to think I'm going to use it multiple times. I'm really pleased with my choice as I think the shaping and fit is great but I'll discuss the pattern more in depth in a future post as I have another hacked version of it to share with you! For reference I cut the size 6 B cup.

To start with I extended the length of the shoulder seam a little to match the squarer shape of the inspiration garment. Then I drew a line straight down from the outer edge of the shoulder to the hem on both the front and back pattern pieces. I cut down these lines and attached the pieces I'd cut off the front and back together to create my new side panel pattern piece (after folding the bust dart out of the front piece and remembering to add seam allowances where necessary). I straightened off the top edge of the side panel and shortened it by 3" to create the stepped hem. I found this to be about as much as you would want to remove before you start seeing flesh above the waistband of a high waisted pair of trousers or skirt.

The final thing I needed to do was to cut a strip of linen to fill in the centre back which I wanted to cut two separate panels for to make the most of the beautiful embroidered detail along the edges of the table cloth. I hemmed the top and bottom of this little infill, overlocked the long raw edges then topstitched it in place between the panels 3" up from the hem again. The infill finishes about 5" down from the neckline creating a sort of keyhole opening which fastens with a button at the nape.

I'm really enjoying the combination of the modern cut of the top constructed with the more traditional embroidery. The weighty beautiful vintage linen turned out perfect for this style of top as it holds the structure nicely. I did have some scraps of white linen left over from my Wrap Top to use for the centre back and side panels but I actually only used it for the bias facing in the end.

I'm so proud of myself for embracing this creative challenge and can't thank Portia enough for encouraging me to try something a little different. It has really pushed my creativity and construction knowledge and proved that I can do more than I think with my sewing. I'll definitely be looking at textiles differently in future and will make an effort to incorporate more refashioning into my sewing practice. I even feel like I might have the confidence to move on to something a little more challenging next time!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Helen's Closet Ashton Top in Bold Yellow Linen Gingham from The Fabric Store

It was love at first sight when this bold linen gingham appeared in the new arrivals section of The Fabric Store website. As I've mentioned before I very rarely click 'Add to Cart' without a specific project in mind but I did with this. I loved the dramatic scale of the check and freshness of the white and golden yellow combo, all on a base of glorious slubby textured linen. I felt like head to toe large scale yellow gingham might be a little out of my comfort zone and had visions of a summery little crop top so restrained myself to an order of one metre (a choice I'm now slightly regretting as I love it so much).

I'd just purchased and had great success with the Ashton Top pattern from Helen's Closet Patterns when making my refashioned tablecloth top. Making that top has really reignited my passion for recreating garments and details I'm inspired by on the internet. I went back to browsing through my Pinterest boards and remembered the tops pictured below with their gorgeous button and loop detail down the side. I though the Ashton would be the perfect blank canvas to try this on and the project would also be a great match for my precious metre of gingham linen.

Image Source

Altering the top to fasten down the side seams took a little bit of thinking about but wasn't too complex. The pattern comes with two options for finishing your neckline and armholes; an all-in-one facing and a bias tape facing. Both achieve a lovely crisp finish and I like that you can make a choice between the two depending on what is most suitable for your fabric. To create my button detail I was obviously leaving the side seams open so to cleanly finish everything I used the all in one facing and extended it down the side seam to join up with the hem facing. This basically meant I had a second front and back cut out with the centre of each piece removed! I finished the inside raw edge of the facing on the overlocker which was a little tricky around those inner corners.

To assemble it I followed the instructions for the all-in-one facing but continued the stitching down the side seam when sewing the armholes. I then flipped everything out to the right side and sewed the remaining hem edge of the facing wrong sides together. It is really helpful to trim all the corners and clip your curves before turning the facing through and if you're doing something similar with a facing down the side seam then remember to sew the partial bust dart in the facing too.

I made the little rouleaux loops for the buttons by cutting strips of the fabric using the bias binding pattern piece. I then folded and sewed them together along the long edge and turned them through before cutting them into short lengths for individual loops. I pinned then basted these into place along the side seam of the top (raw edges of the loops towards the raw edge of the fabric and with the loops on the right side of the fabric). I then attached the facing right side to the right side of my shell fabric as usual so the loops were sandwiched between the two layers. It looks like it might be fiddly but was actually pretty quick and straightforward.

What was fiddly was making the covered buttons. I've never really got on with these and should probably invest in one of those little covered button tools. I made these by hand sewing loosely around the edge of each circle of fabric and then pulling on the thread to gather it around the button head. This is a reasonably heavy linen so provides a nice boxy structure to this style of top. This is one of those patterns that I can imagine feels like a completely different top when made in a finer fabric with more drape. So versatile. However, the thickness of the linen was quite bulky to make such tiny small little buttons with (these are the 11mm size). I managed but I feel like assembling the covered buttons took longer than sewing the whole rest of the top!

I followed my measurements to cut the size 6 B cup and am so impressed with the fit. Especially around the armhole. It sits really nicely and I only made one slight change to the fit for this version. My pattern matching at the side seams was spot on but I decided when attaching the buttons that I wanted to pull in the bottom edges for a slightly closer fit so now the horizontal stripes of the gingham are slightly mis-aligned. This is the cropped version of the pattern and I absolutely love the length for pairing with high waisted trousers and skirts.

I can see this top being worn a lot over the summer. It is just the kind of staple garment my wardrobe needs more of and I'm really inspired to make some more and have fun playing around with details on the pattern. There are some fantastic ideas on Instagram if you search #ashtontophack. I'm wearing it here with my Dawn Jeans but it works really well with so many other bottoms; the Flint Trousers, Persephone Pants, the Evie Bias Skirt to name just a few. I'm off to rummage through my stash and see what other fabric would make a good Ashton!

How many jumpsuits does one woman need in her wardrobe? If you're me the answer is an awful lot! I was just beginning to think I might have stated my desire to have any more jumpsuits on rotation when Closet Case Patterns released the Blanca Flight Suit. I love the contemporary cut of this and all the little details which Closet Case Patterns do so well. Whilst I love the full on workwear vibe in the denim I felt like the second view with the short sleeve, tie belt and cropped leg I might get a little bit more wear out of. Heather models a sample made up in a linen which I loved the soft, chic yet relaxed vibe of so I hunted down some linen for my own.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Blanca Flight Suit in Maple Vintage Finish Linen from The Fabric Store

This is the Vintage Finish Linen in Maple from The Fabric Store. Their vintage finish range is fairly new and is about the same mid-weight as their regular linen line but has a slightly worn in look and lovely soft hand. I loved working with it and am loving wearing it even more! All the colours in the range are right up my street so I'm going to be ordering a lot more of it. Maple is the perfect word to describe this colour; warm, rich and soft all at the same time. In some lights it looks like a dusky pink, in others more of a brown. It somehow feels like a neutral to me.

Blanca is quite an involved project and I tried to approach it slowly and with care; spending 2-3 hours on it over the course of about 4 days. I think slowing down and paying attention to the details really shows in the final garment. During lockdown I've re-found a care and attention to detail in my sewing which I think being so busy for the last couple of years caused me to neglect. The extra time has really given me space to dream creatively, think about the small details and invest time into fit and finish. I've been pausing to read through all those bits of the instructions I usually skip over, eager to dive right into the sewing and have picked up some great hints, tips and ideas along the way.

Closet Case patterns are ideal for this as their instructions are thorough and packed with useful information, particularly in the pages before the sewing instructions actually start! I always find putting together their garments a please as there is no confusion despite various fiddly aspects and I learn something along the way. The instructions are clear, the techniques spot on and everything comes together just as it should with all the notches e.t.c matching up.

As this is such a 'full body' garment you are potentially going to be dealing with a few fit issues, particularly the length through the body which you definitely don't want to end up too short or long. The instructions recommend making a basic muslin first and I would advise doing this too despite being a bad sewist and skipping it myself! I figured I could always tweak the length for my petite frame when attaching the bodice to the trousers but actually you assemble the front and back in their entirety before sewing up the side seams so you can't try it on to test the length until it is almost finished! However, this order of construction does mean that it is really easy to tweak the fit around the body if you want it slightly slimmer or looser fitting around the waist or hips. I'm pretty sure this is intentional and I love it.

Thankfully mine turned out fine length-wise thanks to the exceedingly thorough list of finished garment measurements in the instructions. I was initially planning on taking a bit of length out the bodice and possibly the rise too given that I'm 5ft 3" but I compared the finished front and back length measurements to that of my Zadie Jumpsuit and the Zadie was a fair amount longer (despite me shortening that pattern). So I decided to err on the side of caution and sew it up with the length as is. It is spot on. I do find I am lifting the trousers up a little when I tie the belt around the waist (if that makes sense) causing the slightly blouson effect of the bodice. But actually you need this extra bit of length in order to get in and out. So be warned not to shorten the length of your zip or you might have trouble!

I cut the size 6 at the bust & waist and the 8 at the hip which is standard for me for Closet Case Patterns. I'm glad I went up in the hip as this has turned out slightly slimmer through this area than I expected. But I do adore the slim cut of this. It feels chic and modern as opposed to particularly utilitarian. Particularly made up in this soft linen. When it came to hemming I took an inch off the length of the trousers. The cropped leg wasn't looking so cropped on my short pins! The sleeves I hemmed at the intended length but I like wearing them rolled up a couple of times as pictured. The rear patch pockets are possibly a touch too high and large for my shape, something I found with the Closet Case Ginger Jeans too. It doesn't overly bother me though and would be easy enough to tweak second time around.

I love a bit of contrast top-stitching but wanted to keep this quite clean and contemporary so opted for a regular sew-all thread in another earthy colour. I love how it has turned out. I've found shopping for fabric and haberdashery online fine while the shops were closed here in the UK but the only thing I found difficult was matching up colours of zips and buttons. I was over the moon when this one arrived from Jaycotts and the tape was an almost exact colour match! I like the brass teeth and pull against this colour too. (FYI The Fabric Store are now selling a selection of invisible zips with a zip matching service online). While we are on the subject of zips I'm really pleased with my zip insertion which was a new method for me. A little bit nerve-racking with all that visible topstitching and metal teeth to avoid!

One of my favourite details is how the top of the front patch pockets form the belt loops. So clever. My machine generally does really great buttonholes (although I had a disaster with a keyhole buttonhole on a pair of jeans the other day - there were nearly tears!). However I've always had trouble with the automatic bar tack function. I can never get the length just right and it almost always ends up tangled up or wonky. I thought it might do better on this linen rather than a pair of denim jeans but had to resort to using a tight and narrow zig zag stitch and attempting to make them all the same length! it gives the same effect anyhow. Any tips for bar tacks?

I must apologise for the slightly wrinkly photos as this has already been worn a couple of times. It has already become one of my favourite things to reach for in the morning. If I ever get back to work this is going to be so good for it in this gorgeous warm neutral colour. It is comfortable enough to crawl around the floor in during a costume fitting and is ever so practical with all those pockets. Yet it also feels smart and put together enough to walk into a meeting straight afterwards. Ed said I look like Jane Goodall in Tanzania with the chimpanzees which I'm taking as a HUGE compliment. Blanca, it's love.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Axis Dress in Black Lichen Viscose Jacquard from The Fabric Store

Papercut Patterns describe the Axis Dress as their ode to Audrey Hepburn. When I picked this combination of fabric and pattern I certainly had high hopes for creating the kind of failsafe little black dress which would become the perfect choice to wear to so many events for years to come. Have I succeeded? I'm delighted to say I think so! This dress is absolutely going to be my go-to for all kinds of occasions. It feels modest whilst still a little sexy. Dressed up but understated. Interesting but o so timeless and chic. I just love it.

I've sewn this up in black viscose jacquard from The Fabric Store. I know a lot of people when they hear 'jacquard' or 'brocade' think of heavier, stiff upholstery fabrics but this jacquard is like liquid. This dress works great in a fabric with structure or crispness but I love that this particular fabric is heavy enough to hold the shape of the dress but brings some movement. It looks like it might be quite thick with a bouncy sort of texture to it but actually it is completely smooth and has a beautiful fluid drape. So dreamy.

The Fabric Store describe the design of the jacquard weave as 'lichen' and it is the most perfect word for it. It has a kind of organic and mossy feel. The combination of matt and satin texture in the jacquard gives a real depth to it and the dense black of the satin areas look almost like spongy velvet from a distance. So much more interesting than a flat black fabric. I actually couldn't decide which side of the jacquard to use as there is no clear wrong or right and both are equally beautiful. I went for the less shiny one in the end. The other side has a bolder pattern in the jacquard which felt a bit more modern, almost animal print and I wanted to keep this classic.

I generally get away with only a few small fitting tweaks with most pattern companies. However, I've learnt from prior experience that Papercut Patterns take a little bit more work as they are drafted for a slightly different body shape than mine. I started with cutting the size 3 and grading out to between a 3 and 4 at hip. The 3 should just about fit my measurement at the hip but I have found some Papercut designs to be a little snug in this area in the past. I also find them quite long in the body and I'm both petite and short in the body, particularly between the shoulder and bust. I often find I need to take straps up. There is no lengthen/shorten line on the pattern but after holding the front bodice pattern piece up to myself and deducing that the dart point could do with coming up a little, I decided to shorten it by 3/4" between the bust and the armhole. Shortening it at this point worked well for the back too as it was high enough not to affect the waist ties. I shortened it then redrew the curve of the wrap.

I wasn't dead set on 3/4" being the right amount but I figured I could adjust the length slightly when attaching the shoulder strap. However, because the shoulder straps are attached early on and because of the nature of the wrap style of the dress it is hard to try on and assess the length until the dress is pretty much done! You could go back in and alter the strap length at the end but it would be a fiddle. Luckily my 3/4" adjustment has turned out perfectly! I've definitely got so much better at knowing the proportions of my own body in the last couple of years.

I am delighted with the fit. The wrap nature of the bodice does make the fit a bit more forgiving but in general it skims the body with the perfect amount of ease. It fits so well over the hips and seat and because of the wrap at the back there is no need for a sway back alteration which is a problem I sometimes encounter. Now I've worn it a little bit to take photos I think I could do with taking in the centre back waist a little as the zip sits away from the body and fights against the wrap bodice a little. The neckline lays flat across the collar bones and I find the height of it very elegant. I thought I was going to want to take a huge chunk off the length of the skirt to suit me as the skirt panels looked really long but I actually really like the elegance of the long midi length! I ended up only taking off 2" to achieve a true midi length on my height.

Next time (as I really want to make another of these in a colour for daywear) I might make the opening in the side seam for the waist tie a little shorter. At the moment the tie slips down a bit as you wear it and you get a little peep of skin which really shows up against the black. The dress can also be worn simply tied at the back rather than wrapped around which I rather like but then the slit is left open exposing your skin up the side seam. I think you probably have to decide which way you are going to wear it and sew up the side seam if you want it tied at the back.

This was such a fun project to sew because of the unique construction. I love making something a little bit different. I've tried to get some flat photos of the dress that give you an idea of the unusual way it comes together. The only change I made to the instructions was to stay-stitch along those long back edges (maybe not necessary in a more stable fabric but definitely needed in this slippery viscose) and to also under-stitch them. The instructions suggest under stitching the front as far as possible but don't mention it at the back and I think it is really useful to keep that curved wrap edge sitting nicely without the lining peeping out. I did this by sewing along the long curved edge, then under stitching before sewing the armhole and bottom seams rather than sewing all of them at the same time as instructed. To prevent the lining peeping out along the bottom edge I offset the raw edge of the shell fabric slightly inside the raw edge of the lining fabric when I sewed them together so that the lining was naturally pulled to the inside of the garment when turned right side out.

As I approached the home straight when making this I just had a feeling it was going to be a winner. So much so that I even went back and unpicked the top of the side seams to get a better match at the underarm. I also gave it the special treatment and hand sewed the hem and front split. I'm so happy that finished result 100% lived up to my high hopes. This fabric has been sitting in my stash for well over a year with a note pinned to it saying 'Axis Dress' and I'm slightly kicking myself that I didn't get around to making it sooner!

I try really hard to put thought into my projects and sew practical clothing which is going to earn its place in my wardrobe. However, sometimes I just cannot resist a gloriously frivolous make which I've chosen to sew just because I WANT to. This project today is one of those. I deliberated over how much I would actually get to wear it and whether it was the best use of this beautiful piece of viscose before thinking 'sod it' and diving in. Let me tell you that was an excellent spontaneous decision. I loved every single second of making this skirt and I love the final outcome so much that it is inspiring me to get more dressed up every sunny day of this summer!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Made Label Frankie Wrap Skirt in Floral Viscose Crepe from The Fabric Store

This is the Frankie Wrap Skirt; a free pattern download from the reasonably new pattern company Made Label. When I made this a few weeks ago this was the only pattern available, but since then three more patterns have been launched. Before I start talking about the skirt itself I just wanted to mention a couple of things I spotted which really impressed me about the company. They work with the Batwa Rock & Cave Project in Uganda to support the Batwa Pygmy Tribe, something that means a lot to me personally since Ed and I visited Uganda in January this year and were able to meet some of the Batwa. The Batwa lived in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest up until 1992 when it became a National Park and World Heritage Site and they were evicted. A percentage of what you pay for your pattern goes to provide food, shelter and a sustainable future for the Batwa. I also noted that Made Label give a pattern credit for any projects that they share on their Instagram. I feel like this is a pattern company looking to do things the right way from the start.

I'd been looking at options for wrap skirt for a while and it was the more fitted shape of this pattern which really appealed to me. I love the the slim body-skimming cut but combined with the drama and movement of that looooong ruffle! I really like the length and the proportions of the ruffle which is formed of a series of semi circular pieces without any gathering which I love. Firstly because I really dislike the process of gathering and secondly because it has a much less bulky effect. It works sort of like a circle skirt. The circular pattern pieces mean less volume at the top but a lot at the bottom.

The pattern recommends a fabric with a good drape like viscose of rayon to make this and that is exactly what I chose. This floral print viscose crepe is from The Fabric Store. Unfortunately it must have sold out since I ordered it but they often have a great variety of modern and wearable prints on a viscose base. This one has a very similar weight and hand to their plain viscose range. The properties of viscose crepe make it perfect for a flirty little skirt like this. It has movement but a bit of substance so that the ruffle doesn't hang too limply. It is probably my go-to choice for summer dresses and skirts.

The pattern is advertised as perfect for beginners and whilst I agree that it is fairly straightforward to put together with no fastenings or complex techniques, the suggested fabric of viscose/rayon combined with all those curved edges I think needs a bit of experience. Viscose and rayon can be quite delicate and prone to stretching out especially along bias and curved edges so you need to handle it with care.

I added in some stay-stitching along the waistline and the front curved edges of the wrap as I was worried about this delicate crepe stretching out. I also in a way stay-stitched the hem edge of the ruffle as I find the quickest and easiest way to do a long narrow hem like this is to stitch along the raw edge at the depth you want your first turn of hem to be. The stitching provides a clear marking line to press up along so you don't have to keep measuring all the way along and also kind of keeps that edge nice and tight making it easier to ease in as you press it up. I think the only other thing I did differently to the instructions was to add some lightweight fusible interfacing to the waistband and tie. I wanted the waistband to have a bit of structure and the tie to have some body rather than hanging limp.

Whilst straightforward to construct without much fitting to fiddle with, it does take a while to put together especially if you follow the instructions to use french seams throughout. That and the miles of narrow hem to do along the ruffle certainly eats up time. 100% worth it though and I love that the instructions suggest french seams. I really enjoyed putting the time into this beautiful and robust finish and not using my overlocker for once! The instructions in the video for french seams are really good and clear if it is you first time doing them. In fact the instruction video is really clear full stop! I did slightly wish there was a brief set of written instructions alongside the video so I didn't have to try and find the right point in the video if I had a query. This is a free pattern though, so I can't really complain! The new patterns also have sew-along videos, I don't know if they come with written instructions too. The seam allowances are included on all the pattern pieces so for a simple pattern like this you can kind of do without the video or instructions if you have a bit of sewing experience.

I was between sizes and ended up sizing down to the 4 as I thought my fabric might stretch a little. The wrap is quite forgiving so I didn't bother with grading between sizes to get my exact size or anything. It turned out absolutely great but I am conscious that I wouldn't want the overlap of the wrap to be any less, I do flash quite a bit of leg when the wind blows in the right direction! Each size is in a separate file to print out which makes grading between sizes a little problematic but I do like that it means that if you are cutting a smaller size you save on wasting paper. The instructions are really clear about what pages you need to print for each pattern piece which is good but because there is no more than one pattern piece on each sheet it felt like there were some quite big offcuts.

One thing I did like about the PDF if that there is a page of labels for you to print and cut out to pin to your pattern pieces. I think that's really useful for a project like this when you have a lot of similar looking pieces that you don't want to mix up.

I highly recommend this as a bit of meditative sewing. You can get nicely lost in the rhythm of pressing and sewing all those long french seams. I think because the pattern was free I was expecting it to be quite basic and simple to whip up. But I was so impressed with the thought that has been put into both the pattern and the instructional video. This isn't a simple gathered or pleated skirt with a gathered ruffle along the bottom edge. It is cut really well and sits beautifully on the body. It is a simple and fun style done really well.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Stitch Witch Patterns Tudor Blouse in Floral Rayon Challis from The Fabric Store with Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

This is another slightly spontaneous sewing project which wasn't initially on my plans for summer. I don't usually have a tendency to jump on a pattern the instant it is released. I'm one of those sewers who likes to sit back and see it made in a few different fabrics and on a few different body shapes first. Particularly when it is a pattern from a company I haven't used before. However, I've been totally sucked into the square neck with big sleeves trend of this summer and when Stitch Witch Patterns released the Tudor Blouse I knew it was for me! It felt slightly more accessible as a way to dip my toe into the trend rather than a full on dramatic dress. Plus I'd identified that I needed some more tops to go with the high waisted skirts and trousers in my wardrobe.

The fabric is a beautiful floral rayon challis from The Fabric Store which unfortunately looks like it has now sold out. I could absolutely envision the top in this print but deliberated over using the fabric for a while as I thought the challis might be too lightweight and drapey to work for the sleeve. The sleeves would definitely have more of a dramatic shape and impact in a crisper fabric but I actually really love the softer look of this. This one has already become a real workhorse in my wardrobe so I will definitely be making up a more structured version in a cotton lawn or poplin anyway too! Don't you think this would look so good sewn in Ankara?!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Stitch Witch Patterns Tudor Blouse in Floral Rayon Challis from The Fabric Store

The top is really straightforward to assemble and is finished nicely with a facing at the front and back as well as a nice deep hem. You create elastic channels at both the top and hem of the sleeve and insert the elastic before sewing up the underarm seam and attaching them to the bodice. This works well at the shoulder but next time I'd probably create the cuff channel after sewing up the underarm seam so you don't end up with bulky bits of elastic in the seam allowance/ I opted to hand stitch down this flappy little bit of seam allowance and also hand stitched down the seam allowance where the sleeve meets the neckline so I didn't get any unsightly bits poking out.

I did find the sizing a little confusing as there are options for full bust and small bust sizes but I could only see one set of measurements on the pattern and no further information about cup sizing...I took a punt at the smaller cup size in a size 8 at the bust and 10 at the waist and hips, then measured the pattern pieces to be sure once I had assembled the PDF. Luckily this turned out spot on. I also got confused when the instructions said to use the 'button guides' to mark your buttonhole placement and ended up making mine up before realising they were in a separate folder with the pattern download! Note to self - when making your first project from a new to you pattern company make sure to look everything over and read all the instructions before you start - different companies do things differently!

The fit overall is great and for me personally includes a nice amount of ease. It is fitted without being tight to the body and sits really nicely. I did shorten both the elastic over the shoulder and around the arm which is probably to be expected as I am quite short in the shoulder and have quite skinny arms! I'm not usually a big fan of elastic in clothing, particularly elasticated waistlines as I don't like how they move about and ride up to unwanted places sometimes. However, the elastic on this works great and is very comfortable. I haven't had any problems with the sleeves slipping down off the shoulder but if you did (as is potentially likely with a wide low neckline front and back) you could add that slightly sticky silicone elastic or even bra strap holders. Bra-wise I can wear a balcony style bra with quite wide set straps with this - non need for strapless.

This is actually the longer version of the blouse just tucked into my high waisted jeans. I was tempted by the cropped length but ultimately saw myself wearing this top at work and didn't fancy flashing my midriff as I lifted stuff about. My jeans are my third iteration of the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans and I absolutely love them! This pattern is such a gem. I'm certainly not done with it and all its plentiful variations yet. This is the View C wide leg in the cropped length with purple topstitching! I've previously made the shorts and straight leg variations. This time I chose a denim with just a little bit of elastane content which makes them SOOO comfortable! I love the rigid high waisted fit of my previously pairs but they don't half take some wearing in to make them comfy. These are super soft straight off the machine! To accommodate for the stretch in the denim and keep the figure hugging fit I used a 1" seam allowance down the side seams. This worked a treat although the fit around the crotch has taken slight hit, I'm seeing more wrinkles in this pair and they feel like they could do with shortening a touch through the back rise. Something to remember next time.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

Back to my Tudor Blouse, I ended up using these pearly blue buttons because they were the only thing in my button box in the right size, quantity and vaguely correct colour. I'm not completely happy with them and in fact since taking these photos five of them have been removed and used on the set of Carolyn Pyjamas I just finished! I think an off-white button to match the flowers might work better and stand out a little more than the blue.

Over the course of the pandemic the one thing (I'm talking sewing-wise obviously) I've found problematic is getting the right buttons and zip colours for my projects as these are things I'd usually buy in person with some of the fabric to hand. Now we can venture out to the shops again I'm still a little stuck as there is no-where local to me with a wide selection of either. I used to buy my buttons and zips while I was shopping for work in London, in places like MacCulloch and Wallis and John Lewis. But as the theatre industry has ground to a halt I'm not show shopping or even going in to town. Has anyone got any tips for notion shopping without access to those big haberdashery stores? I'm in Surrey about an hour out of London.

I'm delighted with this whole outfit and know both garments are going to see a lot of wear. My wardrobe could still do with a few more tops like this. What are your favourite top patterns for with high waisted trousers and skirts?

I chose to make the Daniella Dress from the latest release of Fibre Mood patterns mainly for the sleeves! The weather has turned cold here in the UK and I need more comfortable, snuggly garments to see me through...and not give the impression that I'm wearing pyjamas to work! I already have a couple of handmade turtleneck dresses (made using the Seamwork Neenah pattern) which are on heavy rotation through the winter months. But I was sold on adding another to my wardrobe when I saw those lovely voluminous cuffed sleeves! I don't have any knit garments with that kind of detail and the Neenah dress is more form fitting which sometimes I'm not in the mood for wearing.

My go-to fabric for knit winter dresses and jumpers is merino jersey and I thought this would be a great choice for this style as it is a good weight and has a beautiful drape. The Fabric Store kindly sent me a length of this beautiful deep navy merino jersey during the first lockdown earlier this year. It is their popular premium merino which I've sewn with a lot before and absolutely love. It presses and sews beautifully (with a stretch or jersey needle) and has a good amount of stretch and recovery which works for various styles of garment. I've gradually built up the number of merino garments in my wardrobe over the years and now have a seriously cosy winter wardrobe! I love that I can wear it day to day as it can go in the washing machine and that many of them are fine knits so you can layer them up without too much bulk.

I was slightly hesitant about the relaxed fit of this dress as (being fairly short) I didn't want to feel hidden in swathes of fabric but it has turned out better than I expected. I was tempted to size down to avoid the tent-like effect but I stuck with the closest size to my measurements (size 36) and am glad I did. The dress hangs beautifully in this jersey and there is actually a bit of shape to it. It is actually a touch narrow on the shoulders and I was surprised that the length of the sleeves is about spot on as I am used to shortening them. Detailed finished garment measurements are provided so luckily I checked those before cutting and automatically taking off an inch! If you're planning on making this I'd definitely suggest cutting your recommended size and if you're tall or broad shoulders check the lengths and measure pattern pieces carefully.

For me the amount of ease below the bust is spot on and it is balanced well with the neat fit across the chest and shoulders. It is really comfortable (definitely in secret pyjamas territory!) yet still feels chic because of the way this fabric flows around the body. I think fabric choice is key here and something thicker with more structure would have a very different effect. I debated cutting this to be more of a midi length as I'm really drawn to dresses of that style at the moment but I think, given the relaxed fit, the 'just above the knee' length works a lot better on my petite proportions.

The gathering at the sleeve head is slightly less pronounced that I expected. I think probably because this merino is a soft and drapey medium weight. In fabric like a ponte you might get a bit more drama. The instructions don't say which way to press your seams for the most part but in the illustrations it looked like the armhole should be pressed towards the body which I did. If you pressed it towards the sleeve the seam allowance might give the gathered top of the sleeve a bit more oomph. In a similar way to how you might add sleeve heads to a tailored jacket or coat.

Gathering is possibly my least favourite sewing technique and I have never gathered a knit fabric before but there's actually not much of it involved to create the shape of the sleeves. Just a small section at the top of the sleeve head and around the cuff. Other than that it is sewn together much like a t-shirt, with the sleeves set in flat before sewing up the underarm and side seams as one. I really enjoyed making this and it came together in just 2-3 hours one afternoon. Just the kind of satisfying project I need at the moment with not a lot of sewing time and a tired brain!

Navy isn't generally a colour I go for, there's not much of it in my wardrobe and I'm not sure why! I tend to wear a lot of black and grey in the winter as they are easy choices that go with everything but actually after looking at 'my colours' apparently navy suits my colouring better. I like the rich tone of this navy and think I'll try incorporating more of it into my wardrobe. Ruby seems to approve of it too!

I can see this dress getting a lot of wear over the next few months and I'd like to try out a jumper version of this pattern too, perhaps with the hem gathered into waistband to mirror the cuffs. Definitely a pattern you could have a lot of fun hacking and adding your own stamp to.

Stitched Silk/Cotton Olya Shirt and Washed Linen Persephone pants

Linen Cielo Top and Rayon Pietra Pants Hack

Vintage Rose Rayon Kalle Shirt Hack

Merino Mandy Boat Tee and Herringbone Wool Pietra Pants

TNT Patterns

Tops

Trousers

Jumpsuits/Dresses

Skirts

Layering

Sportswear

Caramel Twill Kim Jumpsuit from 'Sewing Basics for Every Body'

Houndstooth Fibre Mood Jasmin Trousers

Floral Viscose Shelby Dress

Ochre Viscose Twill Hannah Wrap Top

Navy Viscose Crepe Solina Top

White Linen In The Folds Wrap Top from Peppermint Magazine

Haptic Lab Constellation Quilt

Fibre Mood Mira Dress in Fabric Godmother Viscose Print

Tablecloth to Top Refashion

Bold Gingham Ashton Top Hack

Maple Linen Blanca Flight Suit

Black Lichen Jacquard Axis Dress

Floral Viscose Crepe Frankie Wrap Skirt

Floral Challis Tudor Blouse

Merino Jersey Daniella Dress