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January Indie Pattern Update!

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I can't believe its already time for the first of these posts in 2018! Where did January go? I took a bit of time off during this month and feel like I have made real progress tackling my pile of UFOs and projects I meant to get around to last year but never did. It feels like a bit of a weight lifted off my shoulders and now I'm ready to get creative again. Of course, despite all the sewing, with this wave of beautiful new pattern releases kicking off the year my sewing queue hasn't reduced at all...if anything its probably longer than ever!

New Pattern Companies!


  • Ensemble Patterns launched with the Sunday Everyday Sweater. I love how the curved side seam and squared off high low hem with bands enables you to play with colour blocking and make your sweater unique. One of those infinitely wearable garments with interesting details. Their next three patterns will be a pair of trousers, a blouse and a dress so I look forward to see what they come up with next.
  • Launching a new venture is a great way to start the year and Mika Patterns are getting involved with their first pattern; the Sophie Wrap Skirt. Available in PDF format I like this asymmetrical style and if it takes your fancy too it is 20% off until February 10th.
  • Also just launched are My Handmade Wardrobe Patterns from the team at Crafty Sew & So in Leicester. Their initial collection is comprised of four patterns in paper and PDF format after a successful Kickstarter campaign last year. The patterns include a Jersey Tunic & Dress, the Everyday Amazing Top & Dress, All The Cute Skirts (pattern pack of four styles!) and the Action Pack Top & Leggings. Practically a whole wardrobe of patterns already! There is also a free downloadable tee pattern if you fancy giving one a try before you buy.
  • Goheen Designs have been creating accessory and cushion patterns for a little while now but this month released their very first womenswear pattern. The Madi is a sports tank with two views and a couple of fabric blocking options. They also have a men's workout tank pattern called The Eddie.
  • Untitled Thoughts are a clothing company with nature and sustainability at the forefront of their design and production. I love that they sell buttons covered in fabric scraps from their studio so nothing goes to waste! They have just released their first sewing pattern. The Stella Dress features a voluminous skirt with high low hem and one of my favourite styles of strappy neckline. 


New Patterns


  • The two new patterns released with this month's Seamwork Magazine were sportswear themed; the Skipper Sweatshirt and Shelley Leggings. The member exclusive bonus download was pattern pieces and instructions to turn the sweatshirt into a hooded dress.
  • Style Arc's January releases included the Harmony Woven Top, Mimi Woven Top, the Astrid Tunic, Jara Knit Tunic and Ariel Wrap Skirt which was one of the freebies with any purchase. The beautiful sleeves and cute cuffs on the woven tops make them my pick of the bunch.
  • Also with a flurry of new pattern releases to add to their rapidly expanding collection of free PDF downloads were Mood Fabrics. They included the Erinus Shorts, Emilia Sports Bra, Felicia Sweater, Geranium Coat, Forsythia Jeans, Gardenia Skirt, Ginkgo Shirt and Ferraria Jacket. Has anyone tried any of the Mood patterns yet? I'm really intrigued!
  • Cashmerette released their Activewear Collection which is comprised of the Cedar Workout Tank and Dolman Top, Belmont Leggings & Yoga Pants and Shawmut Yoga Bag. I've developed a little yoga addiction in January so definitely have my eye on that bag which you get for free when you buy the other patterns in a bundle!
  • Tessuti released the Bondi Dress and its gone straight on my summer sewing wishlist. Simple and wearable yet stylish with clean lines; right up my street and perfect to showcase a special fabric.
  • New from Sew DIY are the Lou Box Dress 1 and Lou Box Dress 2 patterns. They are a development of their popular Lou Box Top pattern and can be bought individually or as part of a bundle. Both can be sewn in either knits or woven and the first is a cocoon style and the second has a gathered waist.
  • The Coffee House Pant is the latest patterns from Blue Dot Patterns. They are relaxed, cropped straight leg trousers with an elasticated waist. I love the sample made up in a classy suiting and styled with a tee and blazer.
  • Itch to Stitch released two new patterns this month; the Sequoia Cargos and Shorts and Bellavista Top. The trousers feature classic cargo shorts and the option to roll them up to capri length and secure with a tab. The cowl necked Bellavista looks beautiful made up in a soft boucle.
  • DG Patterns' new releases this month included the Susan Dress, Michelle Cardigan and Cocoon Jacket. I like the pleated cuff detail on the jacket but the wrap front of the cardigan takes me most.
  • The Cassandra Dress is new from Valentine & Stitch. Stretch velvet seems to be very popular at the moment and this would be a great pattern for that with two hem options, a high or low neckline and two sleeve lengths to play with. Also available is an expansion pack including all the pieces you need to turn it into a top or cardigan.
  • The new Prague Blouse from Orageuse is so glamorous made up in the deep plum of their samples. I'm a big fan of the high collar with cut out neckline at the moment and the sleeve gathered into a deep buttoned cuff is a lovely touch.
  • Anna Rose Patterns released the Oscar Pants and Shorts. The launch of these classic trousers with side zip has made me revisit the rest of their collection as there are some lovely details in there. Despite the patterns being in French I might give one a whirl!
  • Sure to be appearing in the wardrobe of many a sewist this Spring are the new Mila Dungarees from Tilly and the Buttons. I never thought I'd be wearing dungarees as an adult but am now the proud owner of two pairs! Great fun to make and wear. 
  • Just added to the collection at freesewing.org is the Carlita Coat. This is the womenswear version of their Sherlock Holmes inspired Carlton Coat and includes a princess seam for a curve skimming fit. As with all the patterns created by Joost over there is made to your measurements and completely free to download! 
  • Kommatia Patterns released Cannes this month. This knit top with wide off the shoulder neckline is inspired by Brigette Bardot and I'm tempted to make myself one to pair with flowing viscose skirts in the summer.
  • If your new years sew-lution involves sewing more for the men in your life take a look at the new Draper Polo Shirt from Wardrobe By Me. This is a classic knit polo design with placket, collar and optional breast pocket. They have also just released the Paperboy Pleated Pants for women. I'd love this mannish tailored style made up in a grey flannel.
  • Wear Lemonade released the Alma Blouse which has a button back with cowl collar that dips into a deep v at the back. I'm finally getting around to sewing up a pattern from them and a quite enjoying the challenge of following the French videos! I'm very tempted by their PDF subscription which gives you access to their downloadable library, a new PDF design every month plus a free paper pattern after a year.
  • The new pattern from Grainline Studio has been eagerly awaited by many and the Yates Coat doesn't disappoint! It has a modern yet classic silhouette with double breast, notched collar, two piece sleeve and lining. A real wardrobe staple.
  • The Ilse Vest is new from Designer Stitch. It is a shawl collared ladies waistcoat with curved hem and the pattern includes pieces and instructions to make a matching obi belt to fasten it.
  • Recently released by Hot Patterns are the 1226 Plain & Simple Slouchy T-Shirt Blouse and the 1227 Fast & Fabulous Miracle Pants. The trousers claim to be easy to sew and fit and comfortable as pyjamas as they are suited to heavy knits like ponte; I'm sold!
  • Sew Over It are running their popular PDF club again this year and their PDF release for January is the Charlotte Dress. Elegant and flattering with a slightly vintage vibe the dress features a faux wrap, notched collar and kimono sleeves.
  • Made for Mermaids have branched out into ladies lingerie this month with the release of their Mama Bridgette Bralette & Nightie and Mama Victoria Cheekies & Thong. These are the first in their Lounge & Lace Collection and I enjoyed their blog post going through all the different combinations of variations and fabric possibilities.
  • Schnittchen released the Sue Shirt which is a casual sweatshirt with seam lines you can really have fun with. A yoke runs right across and around the shoulders front and back, there are diagonal seams in the front and the dipped hem is bordered by two squared off hem bands. The pattern is accompanied with a video showing how to sew it up and is also available in paper format.
  • I have decided I should declare A/W 2017 the season of sewing a sweatshirt as we also have the new Chloe Sweatshirt from Rosy Pena which is a more classic take on the garment with deep cuffs and dropped shoulders. They also released a long sleeve expansion pack for their Laura Top & Dress.
  • Megan Nielsen has released the first pattern in her extended size range. Dove Curve is the plus size version of her popular Dove Blouse (which I love!) and is drafted specifically to suit those in the bust size 44-54" size range.
  • Last but by no means least Greenstyle Creations released the Express Tank. A lovely relaxed fit workout tank with feature crossover back and tie. These would be the perfect little layer for yoga so will definitely be whipping up one of these!



Sew-alongs




Upcoming!


  • Rochad Studio will be launching soon with their very first pattern; the Katherine Dress. An elegant design perfect to make to wear on a Valentine's date.
  • Kimberley from Straight Stitch Designs has been working hard on the Maradona Skirt and its set to be released soon!
  • I'm looking forward to the release of the Roma Tank from Friday Pattern Company in the spring. They posted a sneak peak on Instagram and I love the look of the neckline already!
  • If you're interested in adding some handmade accessories to your wardrobe the upcoming patterns from Making Patterns Fly might interest you. They are working on patterns for two removable collars to elevate your basic garments.
  • Daughters of Style are putting the finishing touches to their upcoming Liz T-Shirt and Dress Pattern which features a dropped and gathered sleeve combined with angled side seam t create interesting shape.
  • Colette have a new pattern coming out next week. From the one tiny sneak peak I've seen it looks like it has a kimono sleeve and one of the gorgeous deep pointed waistbands. Definitely feeling the vintage vibe.
  • Pipe Dream Patterns are currently looking for testers for three new outerwear patterns which will be coming very soon. Take a look at their Instagram account for more info and inspiration boards hinting at the patterns which look really exciting.


Other Exciting News


Despite all the unselfish sewing I did before Christmas I've been sewing a fair bit of menswear in January and can't wait to share with you all. I must have been motivated by all the amazing mens makes that have been popping up on blogs and Instagram and worked their way into this months inspiring selection. Here's a handful of creative projects to get you ready to sew your way through February!


  • Helen made her fella a beautiful Fairfield Button Up Shirt. I adore the fabric choice and she has absolutely nailed the fit. Its really great to see some Thread Theory patterns being made up as I think they do some great classic menswear styles.
  • Mags posted about an incredible selection of Sew Over It dresses she's made recently. My favourite is her mustard Joan Dress which she made the inspired choice to use a knit for. I love the colour and the knit makes it infinitely more wearable as my wool version is a little restrictive!
  • Heather Lou's amazing red silk Kielo Wrap Dress jumped right out of my feed at me. What a stunner of a dress! The kind that every woman needs; striking, well made, versatile and super comfortable!
  • I've got my eye on a few of the creative DP Studio designs so was really excited to see this 603 blouse made up by Emily. The futuristic shape of that sleeve combined with the space print is a knock out and her choice of white piping really highlights the best design features.
  • Katie made an amazing Merchant and Mills Foreman Jacket for her man and even worked out how to line it in faux sheepskin. Such a professional sew, lucky guy!

Win Tickets to the Spring Knitting & Stitching Show!

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I've just got a quick post lined up for you today while I'm wandering about the streets of Paris, hopefully not blowing all my spending money on fabric and macarons alone! I need to save up some pennies as I'm really looking forward to heading to the Spring Knitting & Stitching Show with my Mum and Nan this year. From Thursday 1st March to Sunday 4th it will taking place at Olympia, London. I always particularly enjoy the show at this venue and there seems to be an increasing amount of dressmaking related stalls and fabric shops selling fabric suited to dressmaking in recent years. I usually try and go with a bit of a shopping list in mind or the inspiring choice can get a little overwhelming but one or two extra little purchases usually find their way home with me...oops!


As well as the huge number of sewing, knitting and craft specialists to shop with (you'll be sure to find some of your favourite retailers there) there's an expanding variety of workshops and drop in studios to get involved in plus free demos in The Creative Living Theatre and textile art galleries to browse which usually inspire me to try a new and exciting craft I don't really have time for! I've got myself booked on to a Fly Front Trouser Zip workshop with Janice Croft in The Dressmaking Studio as that is one sewing technique I still don't have a lot of confidence in and I think it will be great to have someone show me in person.


I was having a browse of the exhibition leaflet before writing this post and clocked a couple of of things going on at the show which I'll definitely be trying to get involved in. I've always enjoyed cross stitch and for Christmas my Dad got me a subscription to X Stitch magazine which I'm really enjoying so I'm delighted to see that the founder Jamie Chalmers (a.k.a Mr X Stitch) will be at the show. He'll be running a drop-in cross stitch studio and showing visitors how versatile and contemporary modern cross stitch designs can be. I'd also like to swing by the knitworking area where you can sit and knit! I knitted my first scarf last year and have added knitting a sweater to my #2018makenine challenge grid so I'd love to get some tips and advice from the resident knitting experts.


All in all it is guaranteed to be a great day out no matter what craft takes your fancy...my biggest concern is how to fit it all in! The great news for you guys is that I've got 5 pairs of tickets to give away which are valid for entry on any one day excluding Saturday 3rd March. To enter all you need to do is leave a comment below and if you like tell me what you'd most look forward to doing at the show...just because I'm nosey! The giveaway closes at 12 midnight GMT on Sunday 11th February and I will be announcing the winners in a blog post the day after. If you live outside the UK you are welcome to enter please only do if you will definitely be able to attend as we wouldn't want the tickets going to waste. Please make sure to leave your email address in the comment if it isn't easily visible on your profile as I will be contacting the winners to arrange delivery of your tickets after the competition closes.


If you can't wait for the giveaway to get your tickets booked, are reading this post late or would like to attend on the Saturday I've got a treat for you too as I have a discount code which reduces advance ticket prices to £11.50 saving you £2 off adult tickets and £1 on concessions. Please note there is a £1.50 fulfilment fee per booking transaction on top. To obtain the offer just enter the code DIARY18 at the checkout.

Good Luck and hopefully see you there!

Berry Merino Kielo Wrap Dress

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Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

This is another project that has shot straight to the front of my blogging queue ahead of the intended schedule because I'm so happy with it! So happy in fact I wore it to two parties on the trot last weekend. You can't beat an interesting dress in one of your favourite colours, which you feel great in and also feels as comfortable as your pyjamas because its just knit fabric wrapped around your body. Also this has the added bonus of being toasty warm while you wait for the train there as its made in merino!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

I first made the Kielo Wrap Dress from Named a couple of years back and whilst I loved it the fabric didn't hold up so well and it didn't get a whole lot of wear. Every time I see one someone else has made in my feed or on Instagram though it makes another little leap up my sewing queue and I've fully intended on making a couple of other iterations since I finished the first. Named released a sleeve expansion pack for the dress around the same time which sold me on whether the design could work for winter too. Rumana has made some amazing sleeved versions of this pattern. It is a really great design, simple yet clever and unique, which Named seem to do best. It is fun and straightforward to assemble with only pattern pieces for the front and back and the ties to contend with plus sleeves and binding if you opt for that. The dress can wrap at the front or back which gives two quite distinctively different shapes and looks; I love that if you're feeling self conscious about your tummy you can conceal it with a front tie, or if on another day you're not loving your butt you can tie it at the back for a bit of extra coverage! Or if you're feeling particularly wild you can go full on flying squirrel...

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

I knew I wanted a length of merino in a knock out colour to be part of the last order of my run of few months as a brand ambassador for The Fabric Store and originally opted for a Prussian Blue which I was gutted to discover they didn't have enough stock of. But it must have been meant to be as I am delighted with what I ended up choosing instead which is this Fucshia in their standard weight single jersey. Despite the name this isn't actually too hot of a pink which I was relieved about! It has a gorgeous rich and warm tone which has a real vibrancy to it without being shocking. You definitely can't beat natural fibres like wool and silk for taking a real bold colour of dye.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

I thought the fabric would either make a great winter wrap dress or an amazing dramatic long cardigan for spring and presumed the obvious choice would come to me when the fabric arrived. But I loved it so much I wanted both and had to resort to an Instagram poll to help me! It was a close run contest but wrap dress won with 55% of the vote and I had an excuse to tick another project off my #2018makenine challenge grid. The dress was absolutely the right choice as I think the jersey would have been a bit flimsy for the kind of cardigan I was after but is a perfect match for the Kielo. Its light enough not to make the wrap too bulky (there are quite a lot of layers going on once you get tied up) but has enough body and weight to hold a nice shape in the folds and drape of the skirt. I'm now looking for something a bit more weighty but in an equally bold and vibrant colour to make my dream maxi cardigan. I'm thinking maybe one of these lovely lightweight boiled wools from Dragonfly Fabrics. I've seen some samples of them and they have a lovely soft drape and more movement than a standard boiled wool.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

The pattern is intended for fabrics with some element of stretch in them but as numerous people have I made up my first version in a woven which totally works. However, making it in a knit means it sits slightly better on the body and stays there as you move around. I'm definitely much happier with this than my woven version. I'd also be concerned about how well the sleeve expansion in particular would work in a woven, I imagine you might have some trouble setting in a smooth sleeve that fits neatly. Interestingly, considering its designs for knits a lot of the construction elements I would associate more with working with a woven fabric such as the bust darts.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

I have seen the instructions for Named patterns get mixed reviews but I generally find their more recent collections to be excellent; thorough and easy to follow. This particular dress though I have a very old copy of so the instructions are fairly brief and I had the layered and split pattern pieces to deal with. Man are all those criss crossing lines where the pattern pieces overlap confusing! Named have updated this pattern since I first bought it and their pattern pieces nowadays are much easier to handle so you don't have to trace after assembling the PDF. Looking at blog posts from sewists who have made this dress recently it seems the instructions now include a lot more information such as the recommendation to interface your ties and the suggestion of using bias binding to finish your neckline instead of just turning in and stitching as my copy says. I interfaced my ties anyway as a little bit of knit sewing experience made me think that the ties could probably do with a bit of extra support to prevent them stretching out with extended use. It also means they keep a nice flat rectangular shape along the length of the tie rather than collapsing in on itself. I didn't want limp looking stringy ties! I used a very lightweight fusible interfacing along the entire length and width so there is a double layer of it in the assembled tie.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

As for finishing the neckline I deliberated over this for a while. I felt like just turning it under and hemming wasn't really what I wanted and felt like it might need something more robust going on. The bias finish seemed more appropriate for a woven fabric and I wasn't keen on using a band as I didn't think it would suit the style or want to add any height to the neckline. In the end I attached a doubled strip in the same way you would a band but then turned it to the inside and stitched down like a bias facing for a clean finish. I used a twin needle to match the way I had finished the cuffs. I was worried about the neckline stretching out of shape so was really careful with how I handled it and it actually sits nice and flat against the body. I like the width and height of it.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

I cut the size 38 as I always do with Named patterns and got away with using just 1.75m of jersey as the fact that I wasn't using a print meant I could top and tail my pieces. The dress is obviously pretty easy to fit in the most part as you just wrap it around your body as tight as is comfortable! You do however want those bust darts to sit in the right place and the most trouble you'll probably have is with the armhole. A few people have mentioned that they find the armhole quite low on the sleeveless version and I think it is a fraction low on this too. The new armhole pattern pieces that come with the sleeve expansion pack extend the shoulder seam along to the armhole and change the shape of the armsyce ever so slightly but don't really do anything about the height of the armhole. I did however find working out the position of the new armholes on the original pieces a little confusing so perhaps I didn't get them quite in the right place! I used 1" for the hem of the sleeve and didn't remove any length but did slim them down by 1/2" on the double from the cuff up to nothing at 11" up the sleeve. I have tiny little wrists and like my sleeves skinny!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

The first time I made this pattern I cut it to hit just above the knee but then ended up shortening it to more of a mini length as that seemed to work better on me proportionally. I expected to end up doing similar on this one, especially to balance out the extra coverage of the long sleeves but ended up loving the midi length! I'm really pleased I cut it long so I could play around with the length rather than going straight for short. There's something that feels effortlessly sophisticated about the wrap style with a sleeve combined with the midi length. If you're planning on making this and would like a reference point length-wise I'm about 5ft3" and I initially took 30cm off the original maxi length of the pattern. After trying it on I removed a further 16cm and used 2.5cm for the hem to get it to hit that sweet spot just below the knee which is most flattering on the leg.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

I was really concerned when I cut into the merino that this wouldn't turn out as well as the image in my head and I'd feel like I wasted the fabric when it would have made a beautiful cardigan but I love it soooo much more than I thought I might! I'm definitely going to be making a sleeveless maxi version of this in jersey in the summer to replace my favourite French Connection maxi which has seen me through at least 5 or 6 warm seasons before I finally had to admit I could repair it no longer last year. I will have my eyes peeled for the perfect drapey jersey with a small rich print. I adore this solid black bamboo jersey version by Erica and think bamboo might be the ideal slinky and breathable choice so will check out what Offset Warehouse have in. Jasika's maxi version is a complete knockout too. Its going to be a hard choice to make...almost as hard as deciding on my favourite way to wear this one!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Kielo Wrap Dress in Fuchsia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

Fabric Shopping in Paris (and giveaway winner!)

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I've recently returned from a short break in Paris during which I mentioned on Instagram that I had spent some time exploring fabric and sewing shops around the city. This prompted quite a few questions so I thought I'd do a little round up here on the blog for anyone who is planning a visit in the near future to refer back to. Paris is a great place for fabric shopping and has a wide variety of fabrics and price points. I did two little spouts of shopping; a morning in the Marais/Bastille part of town and a few hours up in Montmartre. Both were very different experiences and offered up a different kind of treat.

Le Marais & Bastille


On the Friday morning I hit the streets of Paris with a map in hand on which I had plotted a number of independent sewing shops. I'd collated this information by combing through whatever blog posts I could find about fabric shopping in the French capital. I found these posts from Katie, Tilly and Christine for Seamwork Magazine particularly useful. The shops are fairly spread out but walking between each one down the higgledy piggledy backstreets was such a lovely way to see and explore a different side to Paris. I found many other shops and eateries along the way to pop in to as well as just soaking up the beautiful architecture. The shops themselves make for such a pleasant shopping experience; well laid out and organised and with helpful staff who all spoke reasonably good English.  Almost every shop sold all kinds of crafting equipment and supplies and many stocked a healthy selection of yarn and knitting paraphernalia as well as fabric, trims, notions and patterns. One of the things I was really struck by was how many of these stores had a wide range of indie patterns and not just the French companies. These shops reminded me of places like Sew Over It, Ray Stitch and the Village Haberdashery in London.




Maison Cousu - 25 Boulevard Voltaire 75011

First stop of the day was the beautiful Maison Cousu. This spacious shop stocked a nicely curated selection of crafting supplies including some kits. The left hand side of the shop focused on knitting whilst the right housed a good amount of top quality fabrics including cottons, knits, home furnishing and some more unusual bolts. As well as the fabric they had a great choice of buttons and other notions. Everything you need to get started with a project. In the image above you can see their selection of indie patterns, all from French companies and including some children's designs. Downstairs is their Atelier Couture where they run regular sewing classes.




Entrée en Fournisseurs - 8 Rue des Francs Bourgeois 75003

Next I wandered down to Entrée en Fournissuers which I had a little trouble finding as it is tucked away in a gorgeous courtyard off of Rue de Francs Bourgeois. This is a real gem of a shop kitted out with old fashioned haberdashery cabinets and racks. The majority of the shop is filled with trimmings and buttons (and what a stunning selection of them!) but there is a small selection of fabrics at the back (mainly Liberty print cottons) and a countertop of indie sewing patterns. While you're nearby make sure to take a wander through the Place de Voges, Paris' oldest square.




Anna Ka Bazaar - 16 Rue Keller 75011

You may well have heard of the third stop on the list from other sewists visiting Paris. Anna Ka Bazaar is the most well known stockist of the popular Atelier Brunette fabric line and whilst I saw a few bolts in most of the other shops this day there was definitely the widest choice here. This was a lovely little space with a surprisingly large selection of fabrics and there was a sale on which I somehow managed to resist! I was particularly taken with the wool coatings. Along one wall was a large unit housing sewing notions and an impressive selection of french indie patterns including a couple of companies new to me. There were also a number of crafty supplies, books and kits on the left as you came in the door.


Mercerie de Charonne - 69 Rue de Charonne 75011

I hadn't put Mercerie de Charonne on my list of places to get to as I wasn't particularly looking for haberdashery and from previous reports it sounded quite small. I came across it quite by accident on the way to the next stop though and am really pleased I stopped by as it is one of those real treasure troves of a trimmings shop; packed to the rafters with everything you might need. There was also a wide ranging collection of sewing and craft books towards the back of this dinky little space.


Brin de Cousette - 2 Rue Richard Lenoir 75011

Continuing along Rue de Charonne you'll soon come across Brin de Cousette which is a lovely welcoming space with a carefully curated selection of fabrics, yarn and patterns. In fact out of all the places I visited this was the best stockist of patterns; stocking designs from the majority of the french companies and many international brands like Sewaholic, Papercut, Colette, Named and more. Around half the shop is a teaching space and there was a knitting class going on during my visit.


Malhia Kent - 19 Avenue Daumesnil 75012

After a quick bite to eat near Bastille I headed along Avenue Daumesnil, otherwise known as the Viaduc des Arts. The viaduct running along the length of this road used to carry a railway in the 19th century and now is home to the Promendade Plantée; an elevated park which is well worth a wander if you have the time. The arches of the viaduct are now home to many craft shops and workshops including Malhia Kent which is entirely unlike any of the other fabric shops I visited on my trip. They are weavers of high end fabrics for RTW, couture and furnishing and in this store sell off the roll at €30/m or coupons of varying lengths at €10/m. The weaving is incredibly creative and colourful. Fabrics to really treasure. The sizeable scraps in baskets by the counter are sold off at €1 a piece.



La Droguerie - 9-11 Rue du Jour 75001

From here I spent a bit of time wandering around the Jardin des Plantes before heading back up towards the Pompidou where I was staying. Before calling it a day I wanted to check out two more places. First up, tucked away behind Église Saint Eustache is La Droguerie. I was blown away by how beautiful this shop was with all its old fashioned wooden fittings and notions and beads lined up in jars. It is surprisingly large and mainly stocked with top quality yarn, beads and buttons but there was a nice selection of natural fibres fabrics at the back of the store.


Mokuba - 18 Rue Montmartre 75001

I accidentally stumbled across Mokuba on the way to my final stop of the day. Mokuba are manufacturers of ribbon who I have used frequently for work so I was delighted to happen upon their real life shop. The kind of ribbon they make gives a whole new meaning to the word ribbon which pleated, embroidered, braided and lace designs in all the colours of the rainbow. Through the back of the shop there was another small shop across the courtyard stocking more ribbon and other decorative bits and pieces like beads.



Lil Weasel - 1-4 Passage du Grand Cerf 75002


Lastly I just about made it in time to Lil Weasel who have a gorgeous location in one of Paris' many covered arcades. They have two shops across from one another; the smaller of the two stocking yarn and knitting patterns and the larger focusing on sewing and fabric. There was a much wider variety of fabric here than I expected and I had a hard time walking away from a mustard brocade, a beautifully soft denim and a quilted sweat-shirting. They had a large range of Liberty prints and the second biggest selection of Atelier Brunette I saw.

Montmartre


This area is more purely fabric based although there are a couple of lovely haberdasheries in amongst the fabric shops. The majority of the shops are along the Rue D'Orsel, Rue Livingstone and around the corner as it turns into Place Saint-Pierre at the base of the Sacré-Coeur. It felt like the Goldhawk Road of Paris to me but with some much bigger shops! They were much more chaotic than the shops I'd been in the previous day and often packed with rolls of fabric and coupons. Many of the shops in this area sell fabric in coupons which are 3 metre lengths at often discounted prices. This can make fabric shopping in another language a little easier as they are often labelled up and ready to buy so you don't have to ask for a specific quantity to be cut.


Marche Saint-Pierre (Dreyfuss) - 2 Rue Charles Nodier 75018

My first stop was of course the famous Marche Saint Pierre which is basically a department store of fabric. Spread across five huge floors they stock practically every fabric type known to man! From what I'd heard I was expecting to be loaded with delights when I left but didn't actually find anything I couldn't resist. Perhaps I was a little overwhlemed! I was surprised by the amount of furnishing fabrics and found the 2nd floor the best for dressmaking. The first floor had some bargains but a lot of it seemed quite low in quality with a lot of polyester. I felt similarly about the small coupon branch directly across the street; there were bargains to be had but I struggled to find anything I wanted. I did like how the tables were labelled clearly with the price and fabric content.




Tissus Reine - 3-5 Place Saint Pierre 75018

Next door is the similarly sized Tissus Reine. I much preferred this store as it felt a little more spacious and welcoming organised and the fabric seemed of better quality. I found some lovely viscose and jersey prints in particular. This was also the only place in Paris that I came across to buy big four patterns from their pattern department upstairs!


Sacrés Coupons - 3 Rue Pierre Ricard 75018

My favourite shop in this district was a tip off from Marie-Emmeline at I Am Patterns (who I am still so disappointed that I didn't get to meet up with after a technology mix up!). Sacrés Coupons is a little further down the road and has two stores next to each other; the first and smaller shop has leather and knit fabrics and the second everything else! The fabrics in here are all end of roll and you can score some designer gems! Almost everything is sold in a coupon of around three metres with the exception of some rolls at the back of the store. I really liked that each coupon was clearly labelled with length, width, price and fabric content. Some also have an additional sale label! There were some truly beautiful silks, wools and laces.


There are many, many other smaller stores along this street and a couple of the adjoining ones and I by no means ventured in to them all but here's a quick run down of those I did pop my head into. I found Frou Frou (pictured above) to be better for quilting, stocking its own range of fat quarters and sewing notions and laid out more like the independent shops from further into the centre of the city. Moline had a nice selection of fabrics mainly on the roll but a large percentage of the shop was devoted to furnishing fabric. If you're after African Wax Prints I've heard very good things about Toto, although I didn't pay a visit myself. To buy haberdashery in the area the Mercerie Saint Pierre (beind the Marche) looked good. A shop selling mainly coupons that I particularly enjoyed is one of the first you encounter on the way from the metro; Paris Tissus. Although slightly chaotic feeling the stock is well organised and labelled and there was a good variety of garment appropriate fabric.


As the shops are so busy in this area (I was there on a Saturday afternoon so probably saw it at its busiest) the staff are less available to assist than in the smaller shops elsewhere in the city. Most shops I ventured into had fabric clearly labelled with price as well as fabric content but it may help you to know some fabric names in French! Here's a brief run down of some of the most common terms:

fabric - tissu
mercerie - haberdashery
cotton - coton
wool - laine
silk - soie
polyester - polyester
viscose - viscose
linen - lin
denim - denim/jean
leather - cuir
suede - daim
acrylic - acrylique
sale - soldes (very important!)


If you're looking to buy a lot of fabric and are on the hunt for bargains I would hit the streets up by the Sacré-Coeur. If you're after a more peaceful experience and are happy to browse and perhaps treat yourself to a couple of irresistible items I would highly recommend taking your time to explore the smaller shops in other areas in the city. Either way there's no chance you'll be leaving empty handed!

So what DID I leave with you may ask...well I was fairly restrained as I wasn't in need of much and don't like to have a large stash of fabric waiting to be used. I bought a DP Studio pattern from Maison Cousu that I was excited to find in person in paper format. I treated myself to a length of gorgeous lace trim from Entrée des Fournisseurs which I am hoping to use on the cuffs and hem of a simple black top. Up in Montmartre I found just the fabric I was looking for to make a Berlin Skirt in Sacre Coupons. It is a lovely crisp cotton in Khaki green with a soft almost brushed finish on the right side. And my final purchase on the way back to the metro was a beautiful coupon of chambray in Paris Tissus. I'm not sure if it is viscose or tencel but it has the most beautiful drape and three metres is be plenty for a summer dress or jumpsuit.


Whenever I may return to Paris I'll certainly be making a second visit to most of these stores and will come prepared with a shopping list and some money saved up so I can really make the most of it next time. Do any of you have any other Parisian favourites that I missed? I'd love to discover some more next time!

Thanks to everyone who entered the giveaway for tickets to the Spring Knitting & Stitching Show. I enjoyed reading about what you were looking forward to and there were some great comments; I particularly loved that some of you liked seeing so many people in one place wearing handmade outfits! The competition closed last night and I selected the 5 winners by random number generator this morning...congratulations Rachel, Kate, Meagan, Julia and Lisa. I'll be sending you an email today to get your details for the tickets. Don't forget if you weren't successful this time you can get your tickets for £11.50 using the code DIARY18 at the checkout!

Bamboo Jersey Anegada Top and Giveaway!

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One of my sewing goals for 2018 is to try out some new independent sewing pattern companies. Its very easy when you find a company you get along with, both in terms of fit and instructions, to stick with them. When you've got limited sewing time you don't want to risk wasting any of it on a project which might not turn out so well. Or have to spend precious hours fiddling with fit and new construction methods when you can fall back on the familiar, and the security of sizing you already have confidence in. But I'm keen to push my skills this year and try some new techniques and styles. The first of these ventures into the unknown is the Boat Neck Agenda Top from Halfmoon Atelier which Meghann very kindly sent me a copy of to review.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Halfmoon Atelier Boat Neck Anegada Top in Bamboo Jersey from Offset Warehouse

I have actually tried out a Halfmoon pattern previously (the Ballet Top Delphy) but I made a terrible fabric choice and never shared it. I sewed it up when I was really stressed and overwhelmed by work last year and decided squeezing in a sewing project would make me feel better. Of course trying to tackle a new pattern, in limited time and with a fabric that frayed horrendously pretty much as soon as you looked at it didn't turn out so well. Now I'm in a much better headspace and have some more leisurely sewing time on my hands it was time to try another Halfmoon Atelier pattern and I'm happy to report a much more enjoyable sewing experience and a successful outcome. Perhaps it is time to give Delphy another go!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Halfmoon Atelier Boat Neck Anegada Top in Bamboo Jersey from Offset Warehouse

I think this design would work in a wide variety of knit fabrics and each would give you quite a different outcome. My top is made up in this beautiful bamboo jersey from which is also available in two further colour-ways. Offset Warehouse are a social business that stock eco fabrics and haberdashery. They focus on fairly sourcing products from all over the globe that benefit the planet and the people who make and handle them. I've been aware of Offset for a little while now but this is actually the first time I have sewn with any of their fabrics. For some reason I had presumed that as sourcing ethically produced fabrics must be really tricky their handpicked range would be quite limited but after checking out the website I'm kind of blown away by the variety. In particular the stretch and sportswear sections as I've always found it difficult to hunt down good quality knits in wearable contemporary prints. I'm absolutely delighted to discover this new treasure trove and had a really hard time whittling down a choice. I'm very taken with their organic cotton jersey stripes in particular.

Halfmoon Atelier and Offset Warehouse are a perfect pairing with their focus on sustainable fashion. Meghann's ethos is to live, design and sew simply, creating well made wardrobes of foundation pieces to help us in that. I've been seeing a lot on social media lately about our community culling their wardrobes and trying to make more careful choices in their sewing so I'm sure this will resonate with a lot of you! If sustainable sewing and working with fair trade fabrics is of interest to you Meghann has a great list of ethical fabric suppliers on her site. She's really opened my eyes to how achievable making your wardrobe and sewing more ethically friendly can be.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Halfmoon Atelier Boat Neck Anegada Top in Bamboo Jersey from Offset Warehouse

I chose to make view A of the pattern with the cowl neck and cuff & hem bands as I thought the cowl would best suit the drape of my jersey. Bamboo is quite a slinky, slippery knit with a bit of weight to it so won't work for a style which needs structure or volume; it will just collapse in on itself. I think the best way to describe it is moving like water! I have generally found bamboo jersey to be better suited to a slouchy style like this than a close fitting top as it can be quite clingy. I used it to make an Agnes Top a couple of years back and felt quite self conscious in that because it pings back on itself so tightly. That sounds kind of negative but actually that shows the excellent recovery it has! It is silky smooth to the touch and the natural fibres make it breathable so is just lovely to wear. I'm hoping to use my leftovers for the exterior layer of a second Pneuma Tank as I think the weight and drape is perfect for that.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Halfmoon Atelier Boat Neck Anegada Top in Bamboo Jersey from Offset Warehouse

I cut a size 4 which was pretty much spot on my measurements although I was concerned about there being what seemed like a huge amount of ease around the waist. I didn't want to feel like I had too much fabric around my middle or to look too boxy. In actual fact its the ideal width in this area. I could probably do with a fraction more room around the bust (my clingy fabric choice probably isn't helping here) but it is just the right amount of snug around the hip. If you're not cutting your bands on the bias and are making one of the smaller sizes you could definitely get this out of one metre of 150cm wide fabric. If cutting on the bias I'd recommend giving yourself 1.25m as that waistband pattern piece is quite large. View B you could get out of 1m no matter what you decide to do with the neckband.

Talking about cutting bands on the bias in a jersey might be confusing you there and I must admit I was a little confused when I first spotted that on the pattern pieces. But it means that you can get away with using something like a sweat-shirting which doesn't have as much stretch as you might need around the hip. The pattern suggests cutting your neck, hem and cuff bands across the grain if your fabric has more than 50% stretch and on the bias if less than. I love this attention to detail and proof that real thought has gone into the pattern. The bamboo jersey is incredibly stretchy but I opted to cut my pieces on the bias anyway as I liked the idea of the dash design being on the cross in these areas to contrast with the main body. Kind of like Meghann has in her striped samples.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Halfmoon Atelier Boat Neck Anegada Top in Bamboo Jersey from Offset Warehouse

Another part of the instructions which baffled me at first was the finishing of the cowl neck. You turn the raw edge over twice towards the right side of the fabric and only secure it in place at the ends where it runs into the armhole. The instructions say that the fabric will naturally roll over. I'm sure in some fabrics this would happen, particularly something a little softer like a cotton jersey or terry but my bamboo did not naturally want to behave. That great recovery and 'ping back' was not working in my favour! It also probably didn't help that I finished the raw edge on the overlocker as suggested in the instructions as this can sometimes prevent edges from curling; usually a good thing! I wasn't keen on my overlocking showing which it was as the jersey didn't want to roll right over so ended up topstitching the edge down. It looks like a binding now and I made a bit of a feature out of it by using a pink thread that matches the dashes in the fabric. If making this view I would recommend giving some thought to what the reverse of your fabric looks like as it will show and also don't cut the centre back neckline notch as that is only required for view B and might be visible in the cowl version.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Halfmoon Atelier Boat Neck Anegada Top in Bamboo Jersey from Offset Warehouse

There was a lot I liked about the instructions for this pattern. The clear layout makes it really easy to follow and they are packed with tips and detailed construction information. A beginner could quite confidently tackle this pattern I would imagine as there is plenty of advice for working with knit fabrics. What I really liked was the brief summary instructions at the back of the booklet which break the construction down in quick bullet points so if you're a more experienced sewer or it is your second time making the pattern you can just refer to that. The fact that indie sewing pattern instructions tend to include such a wealth of information now is fantastic as they are so accessible for all skill levels. But the length of the instructions can be a little overwhelming and unnecessary if you know your way around a knit top so I love having the key points laid out on one page to keep you on track and steer you through the more unusual aspects.

I tend to sew with PDFs more often than not these days, partly because some of the patterns I want to make (like this one!) are only available in that format. After assembling my fair share of pattern downloads I can safely say that Meghann has got it spot on with making that part as straight forward as possible without too much wastage. It was easy to distinguish your size from the rest as the lines are printed in different colours. But if you prefer to print black and white (colour printing can be so costly!) the lines are still different variations of dashes in the usual manner.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Halfmoon Atelier Boat Neck Anegada Top in Bamboo Jersey from Offset Warehouse

I'll be honest and say that when I first checked out the pattern I wasn't sure how well it fitted with my everyday style and what else was in my wardrobe so I made my fabric choice thinking that it would actually be great for yoga. But now I've tried it I quite like the shape and am really considering making a couple more in soft, matte cottons for day to day. I think it looks great with slim jeans but could also be lovely tucked into one of my high waisted floaty viscose skirts in the summer. A french terry with a Breton stripe would be delicious and seeing the texture on the reverse of the fabric roll to the outside around the neckline would be a lovely detail. I also think going up a size or even two and using a snuggly sweat-shirting would be a great look. The versatility of this style has taken me by surprise and I'm really glad I stepped out of my style comfort zone! As for this version I've been wearing it a lot for yoga as intended and it is great for that kind of exercise. I don't like to wear anything too tight fitting on my top half for yoga and the amount of ease in the body is spot on. The wide waistband is just tight enough around the hips that it sits in place no matter what shape I twist myself into and the slimmer fit of the sleeves also feels nice and secure.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Halfmoon Atelier Boat Neck Anegada Top in Bamboo Jersey from Offset Warehouse

If you fancy making one of these tops yourself I've got good news as Halfmoon Atelier and Offset Warehouse have teamed up to offer you whopper of a giveaway! You can make my exact same top as the winner of the giveaway will receive a copy of the PDF pattern and also 1.5m of the same bamboo jersey as I have used. To enter all you need to do is leave a comment on this post by midnight GMT on Thursday 22nd February and if you like tell me about your experiences with ethical sewing. I'd love to discover some more suppliers and pattern companies with this mindset. The giveaway is open to UK entries only and as always please make sure to leave your email address in the comment if it is not easily accessible through your profile so I can contact the winner and arrange delivery of your sewing goodies! Big thanks to both Halfmoon Atelier and Offset Warehouse for so generously offering up this giveaway and giving me the opportunity to try out something new. Good luck!

Forest Green Merino and Lace Sirius Top (and giveaway winner!)

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Today I would like to introduce the winner of the award for most impossible top to photograph! Neither the rich forest green colour or beautiful back detail of this sweater was feeling very cooperative when it came to being captured on camera but I persisted and hopefully you will get the gist of how beautiful this garment is! If there is one thing I love making (and in turn wearing) its comfortable everyday clothing with a twist and the Sirius top from I Am Patterns totally nails that for me. I also love challenging myself and trying something new with my sewing and the pleated section in the centre back which runs into a placket at the top was certainly that.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Forest Green I Am Patterns Sirius Top in Merino Jersey and Lace from The Fabric Store

I've had my eye on Sirius since it was released a while back and when I met Marie-Emmeline in London in January she'd brought a selection of her patterns with her to very generously give out as gifts so I pounced on that design right away! She was actually sporting one herself that day. There are many things to love about the design including the shallow stand collar and elbow darts but the real draw is the surprise of the pleated section in the back. I love that this feature has movement to it and allows you to play around with combining different textures and colours. When looking at the fabric suggestions for this pleated panel I was really taken with the idea of using lace in combination with a solid. I was just about to place another order with The Fabric Store and remembered that I always ooh and ahhh over their laces but never find a reason to buy them; I finally had an excuse to try one out!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Forest Green I Am Patterns Sirius Top in Merino Jersey and Lace from The Fabric Store

I chose this Hunter Green Italian Floral Lace as it looked like it would be a good match with the Forest Green Merino Jersey which I've had my eye on for a while (yes my merino addiction is still going strong! I'm currently trying to resist this incredible floral merino blend!) Obviously colour matching online is nigh on impossible as fabrics are never quite the colour they look on screen but a bit of experience with the accuracy of the way TFS represent their fabrics online gave me some confidence and I was delighted with how well they work together when it arrived. The jersey is their standard weight 195gsm and as you'll see later on is actually probably a little fine for this style which meant I had to make a few changes. Jerseys of the appropriate weight for sweaters are recommended as are woven wools. I think it would be lovely made up in a lightweight boiled wool.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Forest Green I Am Patterns Sirius Top in Merino Jersey and Lace from The Fabric Store

I chose the lace as I thought something with quite a dense design would be better to hold the pleats than a more delicate version. This once is soft but with some thickness to it and the flowers are edged with a little ridge in a darker green which makes for a bold look. The ridge gives the look of a corded lace but it is finer than that. The blend of cotton and nylon means it holds a nice crisp pleat but it still has a softness so it moves well. I think it would make an incredible fitted party dress! I've had a piece of really fine cream silk lace in my stash for years which I think would be great combined with a soft grey marl and a wonderful contemporary use for a fabric which despite being stunningly beautiful felt a little too girly to fit with the rest of my wardrobe.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Forest Green I Am Patterns Sirius Top in Merino Jersey and Lace from The Fabric Store

Going by the measurement chart I was between the 38 and 40 so cut the larger to be on the safe side. I ended up taking a whopping 1 1/4" on the double out of each side seam and continuing that alteration all the way down the sleeve. I like slim sleeves anyway but the whole thing was a bit of a tent. This merino jersey is quite fine so in something thicker with more structure I think the extra ease would have worked and I can see that my top looks quite different to the sample. If I make it again I'll definitely go down a size as this is still a little wide on the shoulder and then repeat the alteration under the arm and side seam but to a smaller extent. It made a huge difference on this one and I'm really happy with the fit now.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Forest Green I Am Patterns Sirius Top in Merino Jersey and Lace from The Fabric Store
Attempting to recreate the side on sample shot showing the swing of the back pleating and failing! 

As my merino was on the lightweight side I added a fine fusible knit interfacing to both the collar and collar lining piece to give it a bit more structure and also added a small piece under the plackets to give the area around the snaps an extra bit of strength. I really like the shallow depth of the collar and the way it sits out from the neck. It definitely would have collapsed in on itself without the interfacing but you wouldn't need it for a more stable or thicker knit like ponte or sweat-shirting. I used my same merino to line the collar but the pattern does recommend using something else if your fabric is thicker so it doesn't become to bulky. I also added twill tape to the shoulder seams to prevent them stretching out over time.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Forest Green I Am Patterns Sirius Top in Merino Jersey and Lace from The Fabric Store

The pattern calls for a rolled hem on the pleated centre back piece but I thought this might get a little messy with this fairly open lace so I used a really thin and soft poly binding from my stash to neaten this edge. I did this before pleating the piece and overlocked the other raw edges too as I thought this would be quite fiddly to do afterwards. The pleating actually didn't take too long once I got into the swing of it but I think a little extra guidance in terms of whether to start your pleating right or wrong sides together would have been useful. I got into quite a pickle when inserting this piece into the back and assembling the placket and I feel like it may have been to do with my pleats starting the wrong way. I'm still not sure if I've done it right now but I got it to work and love the effect. After spending some time trying to figure it out I discovered this great photo tutorial for the pattern on the I Am Patterns site. My pleating had definitely not ended up looking like that and I ended up putting in an extra little pleat to get it to sit right! I definitely recommend following the photo tutorial if you make this. The instructions and tutorial make it sound and look quite straightforward so perhaps I made a small error somewhere along the way and when I try it again it would all come together just fine. I chose to change the line of stitching securing the top of the pleated piece at the bottom of the placket to a square so the raw top edge was fully enclosed. I think assembling the placket in woven fabrics might be a lot more straightforward with a woven or less stretchy knit.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Forest Green I Am Patterns Sirius Top in Merino Jersey and Lace from The Fabric Store

With regards to the pleating, it occurred to me while I was sewing that washing this top might be a bit problematic as all the pleats would come out. I couldn't face pressing them back in every time but didn't want to end up with a dry clean only top! As my lace hand some texture and thickness to it already I decided to topstitching very close to the edges of my pleats to both emphasise and in a way set them. I'm really pleased with the effect and have washed the top a couple of times now. The pleats do need a press but the stitching gives you a quick and simple guideline to follow and helps everything fall into place. This obviously wouldn't look great on a finer fabric like a chiffon, georgette or silk lace so you could buy a pre-pleated fabric but then may have to alter the construction slightly to suit the width of your pleats or if you're based in the UK you could try using Ciment Pleating to heat set your pleats. I've used them a lot for work and they do all kinds of styles of pleating and turn things around really quickly. They advise dry-cleaning when natural fibres are pleated but man-mades like polyester can be washed on a low temperature as they take the pleating really well.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Forest Green I Am Patterns Sirius Top in Merino Jersey and Lace from The Fabric Store

The pattern is designed for woven as well as knit fabrics and most of the construction techniques seem more relevant to wovens and I think it would perhaps make for a slightly easier sew. For example the hem is turned up twice which I'd do with a woven but usually just once for a knit. The elbow darts are an absolutely gorgeous touch but I think perhaps a little more effective in a woven fabric and I would have thought bust darts would be unnecessary for a knit pattern but they do actually give a nice shape to the way this hangs on the body. If your knit has a good amount of stretch like my merino jersey you could definitely get away without a functioning placket and just sew it closed right up to the top on the collar. I can pull this on and off easily without making use of the snaps. I'd like to try a woven version using perhaps a georgette or something a bit less structure and bulky than this lace in the back section as I think that would make for a totally different effect. What are your thoughts on patterns that are designed to work with both knit and woven fabrics? Do you think it works or a pattern will always be better suited to one or the other?

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Forest Green I Am Patterns Sirius Top in Merino Jersey and Lace from The Fabric Store

Despite the slightly rocky construction process I really enjoyed sewing this up and have been getting a lot of wear out of it. This is actually another of the projects on my #2018makenine; I've definitely made better choices for my wardrobe this year! It is also another adventure in my mission to try some different indie designers this year and I'll definitely be returning to I Am. I love their unique yet wearable twists on everyday classic styles. I know the Cassiopée is popular so perhaps that will be next. I'll certainly be making Sirius again as I'd love to see how differently it sews up in a woven and there is a lot of potential for playing around with different fabric combinations to make the most of that unusual back feature. But mainly I want to make it again to see if I can do a better job next time! Ever the perfectionist.

Thanks to everyone who entered the giveaway to win a copy of the Half Moon Atelier Anegada Top and a lovely length of bamboo jersey from Offset Warehouse to make it. You left me some really great stories and tips about ethical sewing and I've been checking out all the fabric suppliers you've recommended. Its great to hear that ethical sewing is at the forefront of so many minds and often one of the main drives behind sewing your own clothes. The giveaway has now closed and selected by random number generator the lucky winner is...Natalie! Congratulations! I hope you enjoy sewing and wearing your own Anegada Top. I'll be in touch shortly via email to arrange delivery of your prize.

February Indie Pattern Update!

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For a short month there sure were a crazy amount of new pattern releases in February! I started compiling a list about a week in like usual and I swear this post was as long as it usually is. Thankfully things slowed down a little towards the end of the month or I'd still be writing this well into March! There are some great sew-alongs running at the moment too including some for both coats and lingerie if you want to get stuck into a new skill. Things have been a little quiet on the sew-along front for a while now so I'm really delighted to see they haven't died off. They are such a great resource for home sewers and certainly give me more confidence to try out new and more complex patterns.

New Pattern Companies!


  • Lingerie and Swimwear sewing addict Emerald Erin released her first PDF patterns! The Tuesday is a classic boyshort and the Jordy is a triangular bralette with a wide band. The non stretch cups on the bralette mean you can et really creative with your fabrics or easily add foam if you wish. I love the lace overlay on her sample.
  • I'm very tempted to make the first PDF pattern from Studio Costura my first attempt at lingerie sewing! I love that the Hanna Bralette it can be part lined with jersey or stretch mesh for good coverage but the design of the neckline and straps allows you to make the most of a sheer scallop edged lace. It looks supportive and a reasonable challenge for a newbie to lingerie sewing.


New Patterns


  • Schneidernmeistern released the Adelheid Dress & Top. The main feature of this are the voluminous bishop sleeves with raglan shoulder seams but the slim back yoke with keyhole fastening is also particularly lovely. 
  • The two patterns released with this month's edition of Seamwork Magazine were the Dana Bralette & Pants and Kaye Soft Bra & Shorts set. If like me one of your sew-lutions for 2018 was to tackle lingerie sewing these could be a great starting point.
  • New from Making Patterns Fly are two collar patterns COM50S and COM501 which can both be layered over numerous tops, jumpers and jackets. The first is a small shaped piece and the second a dramatic larger style. As suggested with their leather, fur and sequin samples this kind of accessory is a great way to incorporate unusual fabrics into your wardrobe. 
  • Amongst the new releases from Style Arc this February was the Hattie Dress. Designed for woven fabrics the bottom of the bodice can be tied at the front or of the back and so reminds me of the Kielo but with a less dramatic silhouette as the straight knee length skirt feels a little more formal. One of the February freebies, the Eden Knit Dress, was also new and I love the sculptural silhouette of the Teddy Designer Top and Teddy Designer Pant.
  • The new Sports Coat from The Maker's Atelier is a real style statement. The design is like a dramatically lengthened bomber jacket with it's ribbed collar, snap fastening and option to add ribbed cuffs. Also new from them in February is the Pull On Trouser which again are a chic twist on the sportswear trend.
  • New from Helen's Closet are the Avery Leggings. I'm usually drawn to more complex designs for my activewear sewing but maybe what my workout wardrobe needs is simple! I love that there is the option to make these super high waisted, there is nothing worse than a waistband that wriggles down during exercise.
  • Straight Stitch Designs released the Madrona Skirt which is a wrap style that can be made up in any kind of drapey woven or knit fabric. A pretty flippy printed skirt is on my summer sewing list so I've added this to my potential pattern choices.
  • Mood Fabrics released a flurry of new free pattern downloads again this month which included the super dramatic Hibiscus Robe and the Hyacinth Gown. I like the moto feel of the Harrisia Vest and love the quilted faux leather they've used. Also released were the Inula Pants, Iberis Gown, Iris Ensemble and Castor Cosplay tunic.
  • New from Designer Stitch is the Synthia Ruffled Top. This clever sleeveless design has a ruffle collar which turns into a waterfall frill around the armhole. It would be really beautiful made up in a silk chiffon with rolled hems to emphasise the frill. They also released the Indu Wrap Pants which is their first pattern for knits.
  • CocoWawa Crafts released the Cinnamon Trousers which are a cropped pair of semi tailored trousers with a mid rise. You can keep them clean and simple or add pleats or ruffles to the hem and pocket edges. What I really love is the option to choose between the loose fit or close fit pattern depending on your proportions and style preferences.
  • The Bryce Cargo Pants are the latest release from Hey June Handmade. A slim fitting traditional cargo pant for ladies these feature traditional pleated pockets and darts at the knee for extra shape. 
  • The new Katherine Dress from Rochad Studio features a draped skirt which twists at the waist to tie in a belt; one of those designs which I really want to make so I can check out the construction! This knit style also has centre front bust darts and the option for fluted or long sleeves. 
  • Straight on my pattern wish-list is the new Nikko Top & Dress from True Bias. A mock turtle neck style with four views for sleeved or sleeveless tops or dresses with long side vents. Yet another effortlessly wearable yet modern and stylish design from Kelli. She also launched the paper version of her popular Ogden Cami.
  • Colette Patterns released the Myrna Dress which is available in PDF format only. This design definitely harks back to their vintage roots as the kimono sleeved bodice that gathers over the bust into a wide shaped waistband has clear 1930s/40s tea dress vibe.
  • The Claudia Dress is the latest release from Tessuti and has got me wishing even harder for the change of seasons. This is basically my ideal summer dress featuring my favourite square cut strappy neckline and straight cut with side vents keeping you cool, comfortable and chic.
  • Sarah Kirsten released the Willow Bag Set which includes pattens for a duffel and two smaller zipped pouches all of which are fully lined. I've only just discovered her patterns and am bit in love! I like how she has samples made up in plain white cottons so you can really see the style lines.
  • The Scoop Pinafore is new from Sew Different; a slightly more grown up version of a classic pinafore dress designed to be worn over a top. It has a classic square neckline with tulip shape skirt and big scooped sides which cleverly conceal pockets.
  • The new Greco Tee from Ensemble Patterns is free for newsletter subscribers! Its a slouchy style with three sleeve options and three hem styles to choose from. I've been thinking that I need to work on adding some t-shirts of various styles to my wardrobe so this could be just the ticket.
  • Wardrobe By Me launched the Love Yourself Underwear collection, including patterns for a Panty, the Carma Camisole and a Hipster. The briefs both look like great wardrobe staples and an excellent stash-buster for knits.
  • Pier and Palace released their third pattern; the Hove Hoodie Dress. It features all the details of a classic hoodie design but is lengthened and form fitting for a more flattering and feminine take on the style.
  • Amongst the new releases from Kommatia Patterns this month is Flash, a cropped sweatshirt with ribbed trim and a wide neckline which slides off the shoulders. They also released Utopia, a super cool harem style pant with drawstring waist and Carafa which is a pencil skirt with suspenders; a lovely grown up twist on the dungaree trend.
  • DG Patterns released the Maureen Top and Dress and if you're a fan of an interesting sleeve you're going to love this one! Designed for knits, along with the double ruffle option mid way up the forearm you can choose to add elbow patches or a patch pocket to the skirt. Also released was the Reno Dress, a wrap style for woven with a dolman sleeve and petal hem and the Moto Leggings.
  • Sew Over It's PDF release for February was the Clara Blouse. A chic design with lovely details including deep cuffs, a pleated neckline and stepped hem. Perfect for all kinds of occasions when made up in different fabrics. They also released a new paper pattern! The Zoe Dress is a semi-fitted shift with princess seams both front and back which conceal ever important pockets.
  • New from Itch to Stitch is the Visby Henley & Top. The base pattern is a classic henley but there are options to add a hood, skip the placket or add on a bottom band.
  • The Avid Seamstress released two new patterns; the adult version of The Gathered Dress and The Coat. The slim silhouette of the coat is inspired by classic tailoring yet promises to be an easy make for your first coat and the dropped shoulder gives it a modern twist.
  • The Piccadilly Pyjamas are the latest release from Nina Lee London. I love the little unique details on these such as the soft open mandarin collar and curved hems on both the top and bottoms, perfect for showcasing a bit of piping.
  • Schnittchen released two new patterns in their plus size range (sizes 48-56). The Claire Tunic has sloped shoulders and a two piece sleeve with the option to add a belt and loops. The Amy Parka is a classic casual jacket that has a hood and full lining.
  • The Joy Jacket is new from Chalk and Notch. Its a classic fully lined lightweight jacket with the option to add a hood. It would really suit being made up in a drapey tencel or rayon twill or you could challenge yourself to make a fully waterproof version.
  • I don't usually include children's pattern releases but I do tend to include Pauline Alice and her new Mini Collection is too cute to resist! It includes patterns to make a jacket, shorts and dungarees which all work together as an outfit or separately. They fit ages 3-36 months.
  • Street Style Patterns is the womenswear branch of popular childrens-wear pattern company Brindle & Twig. They've just added the 025 Bomber Jacket to the collection which is a real classic with ribbed round neckline and ribbed cuffs and hem.
  • It has been quite a month for lingerie sewing pattern releases. Madalynne launched her next pattern collaboration with Simplicity (the 8624) and Barrett; a free PDF pattern download for a bralette. Its a sporty, pull on style with a triangular opening at the centre front. The 8624 includes a high necked bra with underwire and foam cups and a simple low-rise pant which makes use of scalloped lace.
  • Til The Sun Goes Down have released two new patterns alongside their new collection of Spring/Summer print fabrics. The Hepburn Shirtwaister is a beautiful 1940s/50s inspired shirtdress with two collar styles and three sleeve options including a bracelet length with cuff. The interchangeable pattern pieces of the Revere Blouse mean you can go for more of a 1940s style with gathered sleeve head, revere collar and longer length or button the boxy shorter length with side splits up the next for a 1950s/60s look.
  • The final release of the month, squeezing in with their launch just this morning are the Calyer Pants from French Navy Now. They're trousers than promise a comprise between comfort and a polished finish with their pleated front and elastic at the back of the waistband.

Pattern updates and expansions

  • Friday Pattern Company updated their Raglan Blouse pattern which was released last summer. The remastered PDF version is longer than the original and will be available in print soon.
  • The Jasper Sweater/Dress pattern is a popular one in the Paprika Patterns line and if you're a fan you can now get even more out of the pattern with the release of the Jasper Crossover Collar Add-On this week. The expansion gives you all the pieces you need to change the collar to a modern wrap style and also add a kangaroo pocket.

Sew-alongs


  • The sew-along for the new Nikko Top and Dress from True Bias is well under way over on her blog. This one takes you through all views of the pattern with great knit sewing tips.
  • I know a lot of people have been tackling the new Rumana Coat from By Hand London as part of project #SewMyStyle and they've been posting a sew-along over on their site to help guide you through.
  • If you're really getting your teeth into coat making at the moment you might also be interested in taking a look at the sew-along for the recently released Yates Coat over on the Grainline Studio blog.
  • Also continuing is the sew-along for the Cashmerette Activewear Collection. The posts are up for the Cedar Tank and Dolman Top and they are just moving onto the posts about the Belmont Leggings and Yoga Pants.
  • Madalynne has put together a three part blog series to guide you through sewing her latest lingerie design for Simplicity; the 8624. There's sure to be some great lingerie and lace sewing tips included as she guides you through sewing this high necked style. The pattern includes a high necked bra with underwire and foam cups and a simple low-rise pant which makes use of scalloped lace.
  • Mika Patterns are putting together a sew-along for their very first pattern which launched last month; the Sophie Wrap Skirt.
  • This week Love Notions are running a sew-along for their Boyfriend Cardigan pattern. The guidance also applies to their girls version of this same design.


Upcoming!


  • Ping from Peneloping and Sandra announced that they have just set up their own pattern company called Fig & Needle and they will be launching with their first two patterns in the autumn.
  • Carolyn from Handmade by Carolyn is currently testing a summer dress pattern with a strong menswear influence. There is a little sneak peak on her blog which has got me very intrigued!
  • Scroop Patterns put out a call for testers for their next pattern which is going to be a zipped hoodie with a variety of design options.
  • Lily Sage & Co shared a couple of swimsuits last week which are similar in design to the Blazer Racer pattern she is hoping to release in the next few weeks.
  • Friday Pattern Company are set to release their new Wanderer Tank pattern on Friday and I'm already a little bit in love with the laced up back!
  • Jennifer Lauren Handmade will soon be releasing the Ostara Top; a vintage inspired knit top with two sleeve and neckline options to choose from.


Other Exciting News

  • Maria from Maria Denmark and Nanna from How To Do Fashion launched the downloadable Sewing Life magazine. The first issue including PDF pattern is free when you sign up to the newsletter! This issue's pattern is an oversized dress with kimono sleeves for woven or knit fabrics and the issue includes four ways to sew up and hack the pattern. The articles in the issue are all relevant to those four styles; love that concept.
  • The next pattern in the Deer & Doe collection to be released in PDF format is the Ondée Sweater; a cute design and a great size for a PDF!
  • Grainline Studio released a book in collaboration with the Madder knitting pattern line! UNIFORM Knit & Sew provides you with patterns to knit a cardigan and sew a tunic; both of which have multiple options and pair beautifully together. Love this little capsule wardrobe idea. If you'd like to do the same for your little ones UNIFORM Little has also been released with children's sizing.


As always do feel free to chime in in the comments with any other news or pattern releases you've spotted that I may have missed! My brain is well and truly on Spring sewing plans now, although I have no idea why as its been snowing in London this week! If your brain has made the seasonal leap already too here's a little bit of indie sewing inspiration to get those creative juices flowing.



  • Upgrading my handmade activewear wardrobe remains high on my to do list and I adore Lauren's new workout ensemble. I particularly like the cut of that Surf to Summit Top and the star print fabric she chose!
  • Amanda's Lander Shorts made me take another look at how that style could fit into my wardrobe and I think I may well end up outright copying these and sewing up a pair or three (!) in heavy linen for summer.
  • I think Lizzy might deserve a prize for her use of border print on her Mila Dungarees. Where did she find such beautiful fabric and the idea to make the flowers grow up trouser legs was just genius! 
  • After seeing the film Ladybird this week all my early 00s clothing obsessions are making a comeback and I would quite like Shauni's amazing striped Nettie Dress in my own wardrobe. In fact I've been on a bit of a mission to find a similar fabric to make myself a Nikko...but its sold out!!
  • Amy Nicole has reignited my love for the Dove Blouse with this stunning version she made for her sister. Brilliant fabric choice! Mine is still one of the most worn garments in my wardrobe and I really must get around to making another.
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Army Green Kelly Anorak

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I've had this coat finished for a while but I had to give myself some space from it before I could blog about it as the task of writing it up seemed almost as epic as the construction! The completion of this has been a long time coming as I have wanted to make a Kelly Anorak ever since Closet Case Patterns released the pattern way back in October 2016. I've ever so slowly been assembling supplies and making tentative progress since then. I knew this was going to be a big and fairly challenging project with lots of new skills to learn so I think with not much time to sew over the last 18 months I developed a bit of a 'big project' block! I never lost interest in making it though and now its finished I'm kicking myself for not making it sooner as it has already been a valuable addition to my wardrobe despite the weather being probably too cold for it.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

I've wanted a classic army green anorak/parka style coat for a long time and actually bought the cotton twill for the shell way back in April 2016, before the Kelly was even released. I had in mind the Papercut Patterns Waver Jacket as I'd seen some lovely versions of this being sewn. I changed my mind as all the extra details and hardware on the Kelly lured me in. I found the cotton in Mood Fabrics when I was in NYC on holiday. It is a nice mid weight and isn't waterproof but has a slightly crisp coated feel and has held up well in any rain showers I have been caught in so far. The red plaid underlining is a wool flannel and also came from Mood but was bought online at a much later date. Both fabrics no longer seem to be available as this was SUCH a long time ago! I'd had this fabric pinned for some time but didn't know what to make with it when shortly after the Kelly release Heather Lou posted about how she underlined one of the samples in a checked flannel and I loved how this looked. I thought my combo of army green and red plaid would look really cool and timeless. Also, living in the UK, adding a layer of warmth to a raincoat sounded like a very good idea!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

To give me an added motivation to get this made I added it to my 2017 #makenine challenge grid on Instagram, then treated myself to the paper pattern at the spring Knitting & Stitching show. It is my first time using a paper version of a Closet Case pattern and I absolutely loved it. It has a sturdy envelope with beautiful illustrations, a decent instruction booklet with a clear, clean layout and pattern printed on to tissue. I actually got the pattern cut out the weekend following the show (no mean feat when you consider there are 19 pattern pieces many of which needed cutting in interfacing or underlining too!) and was ready to get sewing! But I got crazy busy with work and could only snatch the odd hour of sewing time here and there which didn't seem the right way to get stuck into this kind of project. Before I knew it it was summer and in the heat I couldn't find the motivation to sew a jacket underlined in wool flannel. Then I got busy again and suddenly it was the end of the year and my pattern pieces had been waiting in a little pile under my desk for over 8 months. I took a bit of time off in January to get back on top of life and that solid bit of clear sewing time was what I needed to finally put needle to fabric. I sewed the anorak up over the course of a week with a couple of quick and satisfying knit projects in the middle to break up the intense concentration needed for this.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

Shortly after I'd cut my pattern the lining expansion pack was released! I did kick myself a little but now I'm really glad I went with the underlining as the wool flannel makes it so warm and cosy and I love the effect of the bright red plaid used this way. Heather Lou has done a good tutorial on how to underline this pattern if you'd like to do the same; its very straightforward and just involves cutting particular pattern pieces from the underlining fabric as well as the shell and basting them together before construction. She suggests using something more slippery for the sleeve so you can get your arm in and out easily but I stuck with my wool flannel and have had no trouble. You can choose to use both underlining and lining together if you'd like the warmth but the finish of a full lining.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

Keeping the project on the back burner for so long did give me plenty of time to get all the notions together, of which there are many! The cost of these can really add up but are worth it as they make the finished coat look so professional. I got my metal zip from John Lewis on Oxford Street as they tend to have a good variety and I like that they are returnable if it turns out to be the wrong length! My snaps and grommets are Prym brand so they work with the tools I own (I love using this tripod tool and a hammer rather than the vario-pliers as it gets them set in really firmly and doesn't need to be used near an edge). I bought them from MacCulloch and Wallis. I also got the olive green drawstring cord and lightweight fusible woven interfacing from them. I chose the lightweight as I wanted to keep this nice, soft and malleable and the thick wool flannel was already adding a fair amount of structure to the shape.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

Closet Case Patterns do sell a hardware kit for this pattern which is good value for money and would save you the faff I had of trying to hunt down all the bits and pieces in the same colour. The hardware kit includes cord stoppers for the ends of the drawstring and spring cord locks which secure the tie in place at the waist. I'm just tying it and using knots and tape at the moment so I'd love to get hold of these as I think it would finish the jacket off beautifully. I haven't been able to track any down in the dark pewter finish I chose. Does anyone have any ideas?

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

I cut the straight size 6 which is pretty much spot on my measurements aside from a tad smaller in the hip. I probably should have graded up a size in that area as I could stand to have a little more room around the bum when its done up but it doesn't overly bother me. It has quite a neat fit in general, especially as the wool flannel I underlined it with is fairly thick. If you're going to underline yours and are between sizes I'd defiantly go for the larger size as there is less ease than you would find in a commercial pattern. I love how snug it is around the shoulders in particular as I don't like feeling overwhelmed by a coat. The sleeve length is spot on and the coat itself feels shorter than I expected which I like as its bit more modern and youthful. If you're tall I'd give the length of the pattern pieces a quick measure and check that against yourself. When I've got the drawstring pulled in tight the coat is just covering my bum.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

I really like the slim sleeve and slight shaping in the body which can be exaggerated by pulling the cord tighter. Many people have commented on the lovely shape of the hood and this is defiantly one of may favourite things about the coat. It is a good size and just sits really comfortably on the head. When you've got the coat fully done up with the poppers you feel well covered and like it won't go anywhere and when not worn it holds a nice shape on the back too. I think I like a three-piece hood as much as I like a two-piece sleeve! Which incidentally this pattern has FYI.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

I also love the front fastening with the placket that poppers over the zip and guard behind. Its surprisingly straight forward to put together and as well as being really functional against the cold and wet is one of the many features that elevates the garment above looking handmade.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

The trickiest element of the construction (aside from topstitching down the assembled sleeve seams which is just plain fiddly) I found to be the gusseted pockets. It was the only time I didn't feel confident in what I was doing when following the instructions. I'm so proud of them now through! I've not sewn anything like these before and found it hard to visualise what I was trying to do. It requires some very accurate stitching. I heavily relied on the sew-along to reassure myself I was doing it right. The sew-along is really thorough and packed with great tutorials to help you with the many aspects of making this that might be new to a lot of people such as how to install grommets (new for me!) and how to install snaps. It only went live on the website in January so its a good job I held off for so long on making it hey?!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

The pattern instructions themselves are impeccable. There is A LOT to the construction of this coat and some quite complex aspects to put together with lots of pattern pieces. Although the sewing process felt long I didn't feel confused or lost at all (with the exception of those pockets which are a real mind bender!) and by carefully following each step I achieved beautiful results. With a design this involved there is a lot of potential for things to go wrong but the pattern is so well drafted and thought out that I had no issues with pieces not quite matching up at markings and notches. I can't even begin to imagine the patience Heather Lou must have had when drafting and testing this!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

It is a really satisfying project to tackle but it did test my patience purely because it takes so long! When I'm sewing I break everything down into parts to make the project seem more manageable and achievable. For example with a simple tee I'll be thinking 'ok I've just got to sew the shoulder seams, do the neckband, sew side seams, set in the sleeves and hem it'. With this project that didn't really work as firstly there were SO many of those little steps on that list and then each little step took a really long time! I spent a good few hours just on trying to make those pockets perfect. I've learnt to relax my 'perfect' over my years of sewing and focus instead on the enjoyment of making. But with something I'm investing as much time and money into as this I REALLY want it to be as good as it can be and will get the stitch ripper out more than usual.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

Hammering in those snaps and eyelets at the end sure was therapeutic. Although it was probably the most stressed I have ever felt about setting in hardware. Once those babies are hammered in there is no getting them out. I really didn't not want to ruin all that work I was so proud of by getting a snap positioned wrong!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

The instructions are so good you don't need to be a hugely experienced sewer to take this on but I'd definitely recommend having some confidence in your swing skills before you tackle it. Heather Lou expertly steers you through how the garment comes together so you don't need to fall back on prior knowledge of this but you do need to be able to stitch accurately and handle a number of layers of fabric at the same time. Some elements of this were a lot more straightforward than I imagined but some parts were really fiddly. There's a lot of visible stitching and topstitching which you'll want to be as neat as possible.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining

I think it will be a long time before I'd want to tackle this time consuming pattern again but I did love making it and it feels like such an accomplishment. There were so many new to me elements of this it was really satisfying to see it come together. I am tempted to make a lightweight fully waterproof version at some point as I've seen some great fabrics recently and Heather Lou has done some brilliant tutorial posts on how to work with waterproof fabrics and seal your seams with tape. Its always these new skills that lure me in to trying out a pattern or project!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Closet Case Patterns Kelly Anorak in Army Green Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics with Red Plaid Wool Flannel Underlining


A Tartan Lined Harrington Jacket for my Dad

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I did a fair bit of unselfish sewing before Christmas and for some reason when we ticked over into January I couldn't stop. To be fair some of the things I've been making have been long promised as birthday gifts...sorry you had to wait so long for this one Dad! I think I've been getting a lot of satisfaction from sewing things for others recently for two reasons. Firstly it fulfils my desire to keep on sewing when I don't really need a huge amount of clothes of myself anymore. Secondly it means I get to challenge myself by making things that I don't wear; I get to utilise some new skills and construction techniques which is one of the things that really motivates me to sew. I particularly enjoy sewing for the men in my life for that reason!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

The idea for this jacket came when we were talking about my sewing a long time back and Dad made a flyaway 'could you make me a proper Harrington with tartan lining?!' comment. He has a real love for the seventies and eighties (particularly when it comes to vinyl records but thats another story...) and yes he's really cool. I think he was half joking but I squirrelled the idea away and set about finding a pattern that could work. I wrapped up the pattern for his birthday with a promise to make it for him so I could properly find out the details and kind of fabric he wanted. He wasn't very specific but showed me a few pictures I could take my lead from.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

I had initially purchased Kwik Sew 4017 as it looked like a fairly straightforward mens jacket pattern without too much fuss going on. However on closer inspection of the details on a proper retro Harrington jacket I realised I was going to be better off with a pattern which included a lining and had a ribbed hem and cuffs. Indie pattern designers I beg you to make a pattern for a proper Harrington! The closest I could find was McCalls 7637 (using view A) which is really more of a bomber and I had to play around with it a bit to turn into what I wanted. I used the collar from the Kwik Sew view B to achieve that classic Harrington look. To choose the size of collar to cut I measured around the neckline on the McCalls pattern pieces and subtracted the seam allowances. I then measured the length of the neckline seam on the collar piece, again subtracting the seam allowances and chose the closest size match. Weirdly although I cut the medium in the jacket the size small collar was the perfect fit so I'd say if you are making the Kwik Sew there's probably a generous amount of ease in that one!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

The next step was finding the fabric which (aside from a complete lack of sewing time) is what really slowed up progress on this. I wanted to find just the right red tartan and eventually stumbled across it while shopping for work one day in A-One Fabrics on Goldhawk Road. I bought 1.5m as it was wider than listed on the pattern and had about 30cm left over. The shell fabric was much tricker than I expected it to be for a solid black. I figured a cotton would be best but all the twills I found seemed too stiff and anything else too lightweight and drapey. I wanted something soft to suit the relaxed style but with enough structure for an item of outerwear. I finally found just what I was looking for in my local fabric shop of all places! Rolls and Rems in Lewisham had this lovely cotton gaberdine which was soft especially when washed but had a crisp finish. It sewed and pressed beautifully. As always with black telling the right and wrong side apart was tricky but there actually is quite a difference in depth of colour between the two sides and I think two adjoining panels using opposite sides would have been quite obvious. I'm usually quite tight with my fabric buying and try to get away with as little yardage as possible but for some reason I bought 2 metres of this. In the end I was incredibly relieved I did...you'll find out why later!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

I inserted the lining slightly differently to the pattern instructions because I was using a different collar. The instructions have you attach the lining by machine along the hem and around the neckline right sides together, before turning it through and slip stitching by hand along the zip. I attached the lining by machine along the hem and up the zip before turning it through, then basted the lining and shell together along the neckline. I treated them as one when I attached the collar so it ended up neatly sandwiched between the outer in and inner collar. The collar I attached following the Kwik Sew instructions which have you slipstitch the bottom edge of the inner collar by hand. The lining is also slipstitched by hand to the ribbing at the cuffs.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

I interfaced the outer half of the collar with a mid-weight fusible interfacing and the whole of the pocket welts with a lightweight. The collar stands really nicely and I'm pleased I opted for the slightly heavier weight than usual for a bit more structure in this area. I really love the shape and style of the collar and the finish I have achieved where the zip meets it. These kind of separating zips are surprisingly straightforward to install!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

To ensure the lining sat well inside the jacket I added a few hand-stitching steps to the construction inside before I turned it out to the right side. Firstly I stitched the seam allowance of the shell and lining together where it meets the ribbed hem band at the side seams, centre back and where the ribbing turns into cotton at the centre front. This was to help the ribbing sit neatly at the hem; I was worried everything might sag and the lining would slip down. This has definitely helped but I did still wonder about stitching in the ditch all the way along the hem. I also made little swing catches/thread loops to attach the pocket bags to the centre front and to attach the lining to the shell under the arms. Again this is to keep everything sitting nicely in place and swing catches are good for this as they allow a little bit of movement still.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

I had some problems with the ribbed cuffs. I had enough black ribbing left over from my black Rigel Bomber for the hem band and this stuff (which I think I got from UK Textiles on Goldhawk Road) is great. I picked up some more in Rolls and Rems for the cuffs. It was inexpensive which should have warned me about the quality. It has awful recovery and as it has to be stretched out quite far to be attached to the slightly blouson sleeve I just ended up with a huge stretched out cuff which wouldn't ping back to wrist size. I wound up buying some ready made acrylic ribbing cuffs from MacCulloch & Wallis which turned out great. These were much smaller than the cuff pattern piece included with the pattern so that makes me question the size of that. The ready made cuffs are not a cheap option but perhaps slightly more resilient and better suited for this purpose than ribbing on the roll.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

None of the pocket options on either jacket pattern were quite what I was after and the images that Dad gave me to refer to looked like simple pockets with large welts so I made them up! I would never have even attempted that a couple of years ago. I used the markings of the zip pockets from the McCalls pattern as a guide for placement and size as I knew that would work with the pocket bags that come with the pattern. To construct the welts I roughly followed the instructions from the Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber which I've made for myself twice (here and here) and love. Before sewing the pocket lining to the front I sandwiched the welt in place between the two so it would be caught within the rectangle of stitching. When I pushed the lining through to the wrong side the welt flipped up into place and covered the opening. I then assembled the pocket bag behind before topstitching the ends of the welts down to secure.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

This makes it sound pretty straightforward and it should have been but I actually had a complete nightmare! The first pocket turned out beautifully and I was really proud of myself for figuring it out. But when I was cutting into the corners of the stitched rectangle to create the opening on the second one I managed to slice right through the end and almost a centimetre past where I should have stopped! It was a real nightmare moment! I thought about the ways I could rescue it but with the pocket bags being bright red tartan in contrast to the solid black exterior it was impossible to hide my mistake. Luckily I had way too much fabric in the first place and I could cut another front piece and start again. I was much more careful second time around!

The McCalls pattern is great and really enjoyable to sew. As its unisex I'd actually really like to make myself one, although I'm not sure how successful the sizing would be for ladies proportions. The sleeves in particular set in beautifully. The drafting is lovely and instructions thorough although this is one of those patterns that there are so many variations included that it makes following along with the instructions a little bit confusing as they are so many steps not to do with the view you are making. I'd complicated this for myself even further by doing my own thing with the pockets and collar of course.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

Aside from the size of the cuff pattern piece the only issue I encountered with the pattern is that it calls for a 24" separating zip for all sizes. Of course the length of the jacket varies a bit depending on the size you make so the length of zip you require does too. Its not the first time I have encountered this issue with the notions list on the back of the envelope and is incredibly frustrating. Luckily I waited until I had my jacket part assembled and could measure the length. For reference this jacket is a size medium and a 22" zip was spot on. I imagine the recommended 24" fits the large size. My zip is a YKK with metal teeth from Goldhawk Silks & Trimmings in Shepherds Bush but if you're wary about the length I'd recommend getting yours from John Lewis as you can return them. They're a little more expensive but worth it if it turns out to be the wrong size!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

I think men's clothing is a little less stressful to sew for others as the fit tends to be more straightforward. As this style is quite relaxed I just went for it, cut the relevant size and sewed it up. A little risky as it could have turned out way too small or big after all that work but I don't live near my Dad so it wasn't easy to get him to try anything on and I didn't want to keep him waiting any longer. I did make sure to measure the pattern pieces before I started to checked there wasn't a ridiculous big four sized amount of ease included but it seemed about right. Thankfully this really fits like a dream! It has just the amount of slouch I hoped for while still looking quite neat and Dad can get a jumper underneath if needs be. The only thing I did note is that the sleeves look a little short despite Dad not having usually long arms, so I might go back in and reduce the seam allowance on the cuff seam at some point to give an extra 1/2". That's if I can pry it off him...he wanted to wear it straight out when I gave it to him despite it being freezing cold here in the UK at the time! I'll have to try and catch him off-guard to get a modelled pic for you at some point.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: McCalls 7637 Tartan Lined Mens Harrington Jacket

The requests my Dad put in for the jacket really pushed me to play around with the pattern in ways I probably wouldn't if it was for myself. I love that it took me out of my comfort zone! Nothing beats that feeling of accomplishment as you give a garment a final press but now that I've been sewing for a number of years some more familiar projects and garments don't feel like such a big achievement. Finishing something unique like this was a real high and obviously being able to give one of your favourite people something you made just for them gives an extra buzz! 

March Indie Pattern Update!

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Still it doesn't feel like Spring has quite sprung here in London but that hasn't stopped me furiously planning some sewing projects for warmer weather! I've got a stack of projects cut out and waiting to sew but the chilly temperatures have stalled me from cracking on with too much as yet. There's been plenty of new season sewing inspiration amongst the crazy number of new pattern releases over the last month though...as always my sewing queue has near enough doubled!


New Pattern Companies!


  • One of the most inspiring bloggers I follow Handmade by Carolyn has launched the Carolyn & Cassie Pattern Co. in collaboration with her daughter Cassie who has been handling the Illustrator part of the pattern creation process! The first pattern is the Perth Dress & Blouse which is currently available in both PDF and paper format. Its a summer dress with menswear influences and I love the feature neckline which is pleated into a classic shirt collar.
  • Nikki from Beaute' J'adore already has a couple of free pattern downloads for kids available on her site but this month released her first ladies wear pattern for a pleated sleeve belted coat. The oversized style would be straightforward to fit and being fully lined would be a nice challenge for a beginner coat-maker.
  • The Wearable Studio launched this month with their first pattern being the Franki Top. My favourite feature of this elegant feminine style is the keyhole and tie detail on the cuffs although it can also be made with plain short sleeves and optional ruffle on the high low hem. Easy to wear but with interesting details...just up my street! 


New Patterns


  • I really enjoyed listening to Emily from In The Folds talking about collaboration with Peppermint Magazine on the Love To Sew Podcast. This Ruffle Sleeve Top is the latest in a long line of free pattern downloads she has created for them and fits in beautifully with the rest of her easy to wear, fresh and contemporary classics.
  • The two new patterns released with Seamwork Magazine's March Issue are the Kimmy Dress and Audrey Jacket. The adjustable ties to gather the shoulders of the Dolman sleeves on Kimmy are a nice feature but it is the jacket that has really piqued my interest...I think it might be about time my wardrobe contained a handmade classic denim jacket!
  • Schnittchen released the Cleo Dress and Blouse. A versatile collared design which you can make your own by adding plackets to the cuffs, a large bow to the neckline and patch pockets or leave them all off for a clean and classic style.
  • Style Arc have started thinking about winter in the Southern Hemisphere and launched the Parker Outfit which includes a coat, pant and tunic (all available to buy separately). I have been struggling with fitting a pair of slim trousers recently so perhaps I should change pattern and give these knit cigarette pants a try. They are my namesake after all! Their second release is the Talulah Knit Dress which could be just the easy to wear item my spring wardrobe needs. Love the dropped side gathers which gives the design a twenties vibe.
  • The Wanderer Tank is the latest release from Friday Pattern Company and has got me longing for summer sewing. It's a simple woven tank with a unique laced up back but best of all the way it is lined makes it reversible! 
  • Among Mood's new releases in March were the Jamesia Pants, a simple and sleek pair of flares, the Jasmine Tunic and Juniper Skirt which is a fun wrapped midi style. Also released were the Kelseya DressKerria Anorak, Kalimeris Moto Jacket, Lunaria Dress and Corvus Cosplay Dress which is their second design inspired by the costumes of Black Panther.
  • The new Ostara Top from Jennifer Lauren Handmade is a 1940s inspired knit tee. The choice of elbow length or long sleeves and wide set round neckline or pleated sweetheart give it a really classy feminine vibe.
  • Hopefully we are seeing the end of the need for big fluffy dressing gowns in the northern hemisphere this winter! I've got my eye on the new Inara Robe from Goheen Designs for summer. I really like the curved hem and placement of lace on the samples. 
  • DG Patterns released the Margareth Shirt and Wendy Dress which are the first of their patterns to come with an accompanying video tutorial! If you're a visual learner this could be a great first shirt and knit dress to try. The patterns are available in PDF format and can be purchased with regular printable instructions too. They also released the Lana Top & Dress which has a simple cut with cute cut out sleeve detail.
  • New from Kommatia Patterns is the Mysig Sweater Dress which has all the features of a classic pull on hoodie including kangaroo pocket and ribbed cuffs and hem.
  • The latest release from Now & Then Patterns at Til The Sun Goes Down is the Evelyn Blouse & Dress. This design has a gathered neckline and raglan sleeves. I love the breezy 1970s vibe of the fit and the gathered long sleeve variation. Wouldn't it be great in a lovely double gauze or cheesecloth?
  • Itch to Stitch released the Mountain View Pull-on Jeans which have the look of a classic pair of jeans but has a secret comfy waistband with added tummy control. With no zip to insert these sound like dream jeans to make and wear!
  • New from Wardrobe by Me is The Perfect Tunic which has a lovely collection of challenging to sew features including a front placket and sleeves which are cuffed or rolled up and fastened with a tab. It can be made as a tunic or blouse and with or without a yoke. They have also just released the Belle Skirt which is a tiered boho style skirt. Basically the skirt of my teenage dreams which I might not be able to resist making as an adult!
  • Cashmerette added the Montrose Top to their collection. A real blank canvas, this timeless woven top has two variations with different necklines and sleeve lengths. What I really love about it is that as well as their regular range of cup sizes it has two sleeve sizes, standard and full bicep.
  • Waffle Patterns always seem to knock it out of the park with the design details of their coat patterns and this Tosti Utility Jacket for Men is no exception. I love the variety of practical pockets including zipped ones on the breast and sleeve plus the funnel collar with detachable hood is a great feature.
  • The new pattern in the Sew Wardrobe collection by Alison Smith is the Daisy Bralette and Pants. Kits are also available for this set which really appeals to me as I think a major hurdle slowing down my lingerie sewing progress is just getting all the bits and pieces together!
  • The March PDF pattern release from Sew Over It was the Ultimate Culottes. I never thought I'd get back into culottes after wearing them in my early teens but last summer I lived in them! Many more pairs are in my sewing queue and I love the sleek cut and simplicity of these.
  • Sarah Kirsten released the Fennel Fanny Pack which is a beautifully simple and functional design that looks like it would be fun to sew up. Big enough to hold all your essentials it has two zipped pockets.
  • Also with a new accessory pattern this month is Making Patterns Fly with the COM504 Bolsa Tote Bag. I love how roomy this is and the big exterior pocket. I can never have too many of these in my life and am considering one in a sturdy and practical waxed cotton.
  • Ethical clothing brand Seamly launched their Spring Collection in collaboration with Indie Sew. It consists of three patterns for knits; the No Sweat Pants, Jersey Popover and my personal favourite the Moto Sweatshirt which features an asymmetrical zip fastening and cowl collar in the classic biker jacket style.
  • The Tailoress has released a new Kimono pattern. What sets this apart from other Kimono designs is that its fully lined and has welt pockets on the inside as well as a tie on the interior side seam to keep those slippery fabrics that suit this style in place.
  • New from Sophie Hines is the Cartesian Crop; a lined soft bra. As well as the one piece view the second view has extra design lines to enable you to play around with colour blocking and various stretch fabrics like mesh. It could be great as a swimsuit top too.
  • The Maker's Atelier released the Keira Fogden Dress which is the first in their Design Studio project line. Each design in this collection is created in collaboration with fashion students and graduates. This pattern takes the elements of a classic mens shirt and exaggerates them with large cuffs, a centre back button placket and coloured topstitching details. 
  • Pipe Dream Patterns launched not one but three new coat patterns! The Dùn Èideann Coat is an oversized cocoon style with darted hem and generous cowl collar and I love the distinct 80s vibe of the batwing Marion Jacket; wouldn't it be great made up in stonewashed denim or leather?  My favourite of the bunch though is the Inbhir Nis Trench Cape. This sleeveless trench has a removable cape and two collar options along with buckets of easy glamour.
  • Tessuti have a new free pattern available to download! The Monroe Turtleneck has a boxy style with dropped shoulders and three quarter or full length fitted sleeves which balance the volume in the body nicely. Love these patterns so I'll defiantly be trying this out.
  • Ready To Sew released four new patterns which form a great little capsule wardrobe for the new season. The collection includes the Jamie Cardigan, Juliette Skirt and Jeanne T-Shirt, Dress and Sweatshirt which is a pattern packed with variety. My heart has been stolen by the Jim Dungarees though. The combo of super fitted waist with the bib starting under the bust and pleated slim leg trouser is a winner.
  • New from Sew Liberated are the Arenite Pants. I think these are an incredibly versatile style suitable for all kinds of occasions when made up in different fabrics. Love them styled with both boots for winter and sandals for summer. Plus deep slouchy pockets are always a win in my book!
  • Fresh Press Patterns released the Willow Top with dropped shoulders and ruffled sleeves and the Iris Top which made up in silk would be a lovely way to elevate jeans. It's a loose fitted woven tee with curved high low hem and cuffed sleeves.
  • New from Rosy Pena Patterns is the Marie Wrap Skirt which is available for free as a PDF download if you sign up to their newsletter! I was thinking about drafting my own wrap skirt for some beautiful blue viscose crepe in my stash but this may be just the thing.
  • The Liv T-Shirt & Dress is the latest release from Daughters of Style. It is an oversized style with short or long sleeves and the sweatshirt dress features a gathered sleeve and kangaroo pocket. It would be lovely made up in a french terry.
  • I AM Patterns released two new skirt patterns this month, both of which would be really interesting projects for a beginner to tackle or a more advanced seamstress to play with. I AM Victoria is a gathered skirt with three pocket options and I AM Félicité is a cute circular skater style with big bow belt.
  • Seamstress Erin rebranded her pattern line under the new name Tuesday Stitches and released her next pattern; the Tropo Camisole. It is a fitted style with four necklines to choose from and an optional built in shelf bralette for lightweight support.
  • Issue 2 of Lisa Comfort Magazine is out and included with this issue is the Lea Dress pattern. I just love the clean lines and shaping of this design. It is a really wearable vintage inspired style that screams true Lisa to me!
  • I am loving the trend for clothing designers releasing some of their more popular styles in sewing pattern format for us to create our own. The latest from Anna Allen is the Persephone Sailor Pants and Shorts which have already been getting big love within the sewing community. I'm very drawn to this high-waisted wide leg look for summer and interestingly these don't have a side seam.
  • I only discovered DIBY Club this month and love their ethos of creating sewing patterns that teach. This month they released a collection of four new jeans patterns which can be bought individually or as a bundle and all come in misses and plus sizes. They include the Dauphine Skinny Jeans, Bravado Bootleg & Flood Jeans, Walker Shorts and my personal favourite the Augusta Moto Pant & Capri with stitched and tucked detailing on the front thigh panels. Also available are free downloadable guides for back pocket stitching designs. 
  • Sew Different treated us to another free pattern download in the form of the new Ruffle Top. This classy design has a high neckline and raglan sleeves with a ruffle inserted into the sleeve seam.
  • New from Scroop Patterns is the Otari Hoodie. A classic zip front style, this pattern includes two views one with a regular hood and kangaroo pocket and the other with a pointed hood and scalloped pocket.
  • 5 Out Of 4 Patterns launched three new designs this month. The Men's Rocky Tee is a classic design with various style options and a wide size range. For women there is the Jessie Top, Tunic and Dress and Gloria Peplum and Dress which features a gorgeous draped split sleeve.
  • Last but by no means least Liesl & Co released two new women's patterns alongside bringing back the paper format of one of my personal favourites, the Weekend Getaway Blouse & Dress. The new Terrace Dress has a loose fit and kimono sleeves with a gorgeous obi style wrap belt/sash to add shaping and the Extra-Sharp Pencil Skirt is a wardrobe classic.


Pattern updates and expansions

  • Tessuti have launched plus size versions of two of their popular dress patterns. The Eva Dress and Milenda Dress are now available in Australian sizes 18-12 in both paper and PDF format. Going forward Tessuti will be releasing a limited selection of their current and future designs in the new extended size range.
  • Pattern Fantastique released a new sleeve expansion pack for their Celestial Maxi Dress pattern. Its a seventies inspired voluminous sleeve design with elasticated cuff.
  • Kelli from True Bias released the Lander Zipper Expansion Pack for her popular Lander Pants; great for any of you who love the shape of these trousers but aren't a fan of the feature button fly. I've got a few of these planned so am definitely going to be giving this a try for some variety.
  • Orageuse have just launched an updated version of the Lisboa Top & Dress. The PDF file now includes the 'layer's option so you can choose which size(s) to print and there is also now the option to add sleeves!


Sew-alongs


  • A sew-along for the Hanna Bralette (released last month by Studio Costura) is up on their blog now. I think this pattern with the sew-along could be an excellent entry point into lingerie making.
  • There's a sew-along running on the Mika Patterns blog for their Sophie Wrap Skirt. Guiding you through every step of the process; from printing and assembling your PDF pattern to finishing techniques.
  • 5 Out Of 4 Patterns have been running a sew-along for their recently released Jessie Top, Tunic and Dress over on their blog. The posts cover all the different back options which include a low open ballerina cut, criss cross straps or an inserted racer back.


Upcoming!


  • Designer Stitch are currently testing a Vintage Tea Dress design.
  • The Friday Pattern Company Vernazza Two Piece Swimsuit is set for launch in April and after the little peak posted on Instagram I can't wait to see more and get my hands on this one for summer!
  • Maven Patterns are currently developing their next pattern; the Good Times Skirt.
  • Pauline Alice have two new patterns coming for spring/summer 2018 which are promising more of her classic retro vibe.


Other Exciting News



Phew, that feels like a lot this month and has certainly got me inspired to sew for the new season! As always I'll leave you with a bit of indie sewing inspiration from around the sewing community to get your creative juices flowing!



  • Jen made a gorgeous Kew Dress from Atelier Brunette Double Gauze. I love that she chose to remove the button front and add an invisible zip in the back to keep the lines clean and really show off that fabric.
  • I don't think I would have ever looked at the Pattern Fantasique Terra Pants as something I would wear but after seeing the way Novita wears her stunning green pair they've become an unexpected addition to my sewing queue! Her Lempi Button Down Dress is also a beauty
  • I love the longer length of Debbie's Oslo Coat and in one of my favourite colours too! I'm still really head over heels for this pattern and might well make up another next winter. Possibly belted this time.
  • This viscose was an excellent choice for Emily's Zinnia Skirt, just look at that swish! This paprika colour has been creeping into my spring/summer sewing plans too.
  • Kelli's maxi version of her popular Roscoe Blouse & Dress pattern is an absolute stunner! Love the combination of prints in the same colour-way and her placement of them. She's basically created my dream boho dress!
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Tartan Wool Ailakki Trousers

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Say hello to my new favourite trousers! I'm not quite sure where the idea for these came from. They're one of those projects that fester away in the back of your brain for a long time and when you finally get around to making them then turn out to be so much better than you initially hoped!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Ailakki Jumpsuit Trousers in Tartan Wool Suiting from The Fabric Store

I ordered this beautiful tartan wool suiting from The Fabric Store back in January with a pair of classic trousers in mind. My intention was initially slim fitting cigarette pants and I was thinking about using the Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers. However, I personally have a bit of a love/hate relationship with this pattern; in that I LOVE the style and idea of them on me but I have had a total nightmare trying to fit them. I've had two goes at them but each time have fallen down a rabbit hole of alterations, none of which seem to help or if the adjustment does make a positive difference it seems to have a negative effect elsewhere. I've even tried changing the crotch curve of the pattern to be that of a pattern which does work for me but to no avail. Any fitting tips and advice for this pattern would be most welcome as I am determined to conquer them at some point but perhaps I should concede that they're just not made for me. Ultimately the close fitting cut of those is better suited to woven fabrics with a little stretch anyway so not a match made in heaven with my firmly woven suiting.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Ailakki Jumpsuit Trousers in Tartan Wool Suiting from The Fabric Store

I was looking online at other patterns for slim or peg-legged trousers with a high waist when I realised the cut I was envisioning already existed in my pattern stash in the form of the Named Ailakki Cross Front JumpsuitMy berry coloured version of this pattern is one of, if not THE all time favourite thing I've made and I've since used the trouser portion of this pattern again to make my black tuxedo style jumpsuit. The tapered cut of these is beautiful and the fit of the size 38 is nigh on spot on for me straight out of the envelope, especially through the lower back and bum. I did make one change to the pattern to achieve a slightly slimmer leg. While I like the volume of the leg on the jumpsuit as it balances the fairly skimpy bodice nicely I wanted a slightly more tailored look from these. I both narrowed the leg and raised the crotch slightly by using a 1" seam allowance instead of 1cm on the inner leg seams. I was worried I had overdone it and would end up restricting my movement but I couldn't be more delighted with how this has turned out.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Ailakki Jumpsuit Trousers in Tartan Wool Suiting from The Fabric Store

To make these as trousers rather than a jumpsuit was really straightforward. I cut all the trouser pattern pieces as usual and the two waistbands. Once the trousers were assembled I sewed the exterior waistband to the top then sewed the waistband facing to it along the top edge, as you do for the jumpsuit just without sandwiching the bodice between the two pieces. At this point I decided to under stitch along this top edge to keep it crisp and clean without the facing rolling out to the right side. Then I inserted the zip as usual, running the top of the teeth up to the top of the waistband. Then pressed in the raw edges of the waistband facing and stitched it all down by hand.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Ailakki Jumpsuit Trousers in Tartan Wool Suiting from The Fabric Store

The waistband could do with being a fraction tighter but gives me room for a big meal! The room in the waistband is not as noticeable with the full jumpsuit as the bodice is holding it up but with a separate pair of trousers the waistband needs to be fairly snug to keep everything in place.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Ailakki Jumpsuit Trousers in Tartan Wool Suiting from The Fabric Store

I've noticed with both my jumpsuits and now these that there's something a little awkward about the way the pockets sit. The pocket bags almost feel like they want to head towards the back of the garment rather than sitting nicely in front. I'd added in the step of under stitching both pocket edges on my previous versions so tried combatting the strange hang by just under-stitching the front opening and it has helped but not solved the issue. I'm now wondering if it is to do with the facing on the rear pocket bag which is actually a feature I really love. I might try making the back piece a little larger next time to see if that helps it swing forward. I actually think I'd make the pockets a bit larger in general anyway as they don't quite fully hold my phone at the moment an that is always handy.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Ailakki Jumpsuit Trousers in Tartan Wool Suiting from The Fabric Store

As for the fabric it has been an absolute dream to work with and a dream to wear. It has a lovely smooth hand and is fairly fine as you would expect from a suiting but still has some substance to it. Some wool suitings are a little too flimsy for my preference, especially for trousers. This feels quite robust and like it will withstand some wear. Which is a good thing as they're certainly going to get some! I'd say it has the perfect weight and drape for a tailored trouser and these hang so well. I've been washing and handling it in the same manner I do all my merino wools; a 30 degree gentle/wool cycle in the machine, a cool to medium heat on the iron and I gave it a good steamy press before cutting to really minimise the chance of any further shrinkage. I used a size 80 microtex needle in my machine and it sewed up so smoothly.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Ailakki Jumpsuit Trousers in Tartan Wool Suiting from The Fabric Store

This fabric does fray quite easily so I finished all the internal seams on the overlocker. If you are planning on making this pattern I would recommend following the advice to finish your seam allowances before assembly as it is tricky to get into some areas (for example around the pockets) afterwards. I hemmed the trousers at just above ankle length (removing an inch) but have often worn them rolled up to a slightly shorter cropped length. If I'd realised I'd do this so much beforehand I might have considered a different seam allowance finish as I'm not a big fan of seeing the overlocking exposed in the turn up. Next time I might try a flat felled seam or perhaps binding would be a nice touch.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Ailakki Jumpsuit Trousers in Tartan Wool Suiting from The Fabric Store

I had 1.25m of the wool which was just about right although I could probably squeeze them out of a metre of a solid colour. I really like that the navy and green tartan combo is fairly subtle. I don't think I've got the confidence to pull off full Rod Stewart style as much as I would like to! I'll hold my hands up and admit that my pattern matching isn't fantastic. I did give it a stab by lining up the side seam notches on the same line in the tartan and this has worked to some extent but I should have cut everything out on a single layer to ensure a good match all the way around. I was simply too lazy to trace my pattern pieces off a second time! If I had I might have avoided the slight mismatch along the crotch seam and left leg. I'm kicking myself slightly for not putting a bit more effort in but at the time of cutting I didn't realise how big a success these were going to be. At least I can't really see those areas when they're on so it doesn't overly bother me!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Ailakki Jumpsuit Trousers in Tartan Wool Suiting from The Fabric Store

These feel so on trend right now as well as incredibly comfortable and I have been really enjoying wearing them both dressed up for date night with heels or with scruffy sneakers for day. A simple tee tucked in the top works great for either or these and one of my many Ogden Camis also make a great pairing. I think I could definitely find use for another couple of pairs of these in solid colours. Proof of how much mileage can be had out of the patterns you already own. I'm glad I got around to making at least this pair before summer arrives (if it ever will!) as they the perfect weight, warmth and style for spring.

Brushed Cotton Berlin Skirt

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After the surprise success of the trousers I shared last week I've now got a project to show you which hasn't quite lived up to the high expectations I had for it. I can't quite put my finger on what my problem with this skirt is...the fabric, the pattern, the fit. I think probably a combination of all three just being a little off. Its not a complete disaster and I've still been getting some wear out of it but I was hoping for my new favourite skirt and a wardrobe hero and didn't get it. I've got plans to tackle this pattern again though, I haven't given up on the dream and have learnt a lot from making this one.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Khaki Green Brushed Cotton Orageuse Berlin Skirt

The pattern is the Berlin Skirt from French pattern company Orageuse which I have had my eye on for some time and was actually one of my choices for the #2018makenine challenge on Instagram. A lot of the Orageuse designs appeal to me as they strike a good balance between stylish, contemporary and wearable and include some unique features. It is the first pattern I have used from this company and whilst I was impressed with the drafting and the complexity of the pattern I found myself a bit adrift with the instructions. You know sometimes when you try a new pattern company the instructions feel fairly instinctive to follow and other times they feel a bit unfamiliar and the construction doesn't seem to flow as smoothly; it was definitely the latter experience for me. I think this is often down to personal preference and their methods don't gel with my usual construction techniques. Its good to push yourself out of your comfort zone once in a while!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Khaki Green Brushed Cotton Orageuse Berlin Skirt

The fabric is one of the purchases I made in Paris and is an exquisite brushed cotton from Sacrés Coupons which was my favourite shop. Its almost like a fine moleskin but a little crispier and I imagine is a bolt end from a designer line as is most of the fabric in that particular store. I thought the crisp hand would be great to show off the 'paper-bag' shape of this skirt and really make the most of those feature pockets but after making it I think something softer with more drape would be better suited. This is a little too pokey so the skirt doesn't hang well when I start moving around. In particular the pleats open up when I walk and then stay poking out rather than folding back in on themselves which is frustrating. The nap of the exterior of the fabric also catches against itself a bit so nothing wants to fall into a natural place. It also picks up fluff like crazy! Not so great when you work in costume...I go home covered in thread! I had a 3 metre coupon and still have well over half left so perhaps I can find a project better suited to it for the rest.

One really great thing about the fabric is that it presses beautifully. That's really essential in a fabric choice for this design as you want crisp pleats and crisp edges on those pockets and the centre front split. Its all about sharp corners! I took the advice of a commenter on my post about the Sirius Sweater and tried heat-setting in my pleats with a spritz of vinegar and water mix before pressing. This certainly improved the crispness of my pleats and they are holding up well but still don't fare so well in the wash. Thanks very much to whoever provided me with that great tip!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Khaki Green Brushed Cotton Orageuse Berlin Skirt

I cut the size 38 at the waist and graded out to a 40 at the lower hip as I wanted it nice and snug at the waist and slim but not clingy around the bum. I'm fairly happy with the fit and although I had been considering sizing up next time for a more relaxed summer look I think I'll stick with this as I wouldn't want it to keep shifting about. It sits beautiful around the waist and high hip at the moment which is mainly due to the curved waistband, what a dream those things are! Definitely my favourite part of this pattern.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Khaki Green Brushed Cotton Orageuse Berlin Skirt

Looking at the pictures I'm thinking that part of my dissatisfaction with the finished article may be to do with the style not suiting my petite proportions. Midi lengths can be really tricky to pull off and I'm not quite sure I've got the balance of this one right. I took 9cm off the length and am pretty happy with where the hem hits but next time I will take this out from higher up the skirt, possibly in two parts which will mean redrawing the pleat line in. Taking the length of the hem meant I lost some of the shape. I'm 5ft3" so I expected to have to shorten it a but but 9cm does seem a lot.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Khaki Green Brushed Cotton Orageuse Berlin Skirt

Some of the phrasing of the instructions seemed a little odd and I'm wondering if something is lost in the translation from French. Only tiny things which aren't a huge problem as referring to the illustrations clarifies things; for example it says to 'pink the pocket bag' so you can turn it to the wrong side when it actually means to snip the seam allowance into the corner. I'd read through the instructions before starting so spotted the areas I was wary of and made a few changes for personal preference.

I was going to attach my belt loops once the invisible zip was attached but before the lining was turned to the inside so they were just sewn to the shell and not right through the lining too. I didn't love the idea of that stitching showing on the inside when you've gone to the effort of lining. But then I realised that wouldn't be possible because the waistband is topstitched along the lower edge to seal up the insides. When it came to it I ended up unpicking my topstitching and leaving the shell and lining hanging free from each other as it was nigh on impossible to get seams at the bottom of the waistband and waistband facing lined up so the topstitching looked really terribly uneven from the inside. I'd like to give this a go on another version though, perhaps stitching in the ditch rather than topstitching as it would be a lovely secure finish.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Khaki Green Brushed Cotton Orageuse Berlin Skirt

Speaking of belt loops my inclination is either to make the belt loops longer or the belt itself narrower as the belt at the moment can't lay flat though the loops and looks really scruffy once tied. Its worth noting that the steps to create the belt and assemble the lining aren't illustrated and there is the potential to go wrong there. Make sure you are sewing the two pieces of the belt together by the short ends so you end up with a long, narrow strip rather than short and fat! Also watch out when you are cutting your pattern pieces that you are marking the right pleat lines for the length of skirt you are making. Both the short skirt and midi length are on the same pattern pieces and the pleat lines are easy to confuse. I triple checked!

I added a couple of my own tricks to the instructions such as adding twill tape to the pocket opening seam allowances for extra strength, this style of pocket is very tempting to keep your hands in which means could potentially quite easily get stretched out. I also under-stitched along the top edge of the waistband to encourage the facing to roll to the inside.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Khaki Green Brushed Cotton Orageuse Berlin Skirt

When assembling the front lining the instructions say to sew the centre front seam to 1cm above the slit but the slit isn't actually marked on the pattern piece. By looking ahead in the instructions to see how the slit was later finished I decided to sew it to the same point as I did the front piece but this was a little low. I unpicked about 2cm to get the finishing to work. There's quite a bit of hand stitching involved in finishing the hem and centre front split but I really enjoyed this part!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Khaki Green Brushed Cotton Orageuse Berlin Skirt


The roomy pockets appealed to me but in reality and despite appearances they are not all that deep! My phone only just about gets in there and I want to be able to plunge my hands down further into them. I might add a bit of length to the pocket bag pieces next time. My real bug bear with this skirt is that the lining wants to peek out of the front slit despite it being hand-stitched down around that edge. I certainly haven't helped that with my choice of contrasting print and the drapey viscose (from my stash) is probably exacerbating the problem as it shifts about so much. A crisper choice might stay put. As a bit of a fix I might catch the lining to the shell at the hem in a few places with thread chains so it still has some movement but keeps to the shape of the shell a little better. I'm considering doing without the lining next time and I'd simply hand stitch the bottom edge of the waistband facing down.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Khaki Green Brushed Cotton Orageuse Berlin Skirt
You can still see where my topstitching was!

I'd say you want to have a little bit of confidence in your sewing skills to make this as some aspects are slightly fiddly. In general I prefer illustrated instructions like these to those with photographs; theres something about line drawings that I find easier to follow. However there are a couple of points in this where a photograph would have reassured me I'd done it right as the illustrations are all a 'wide angle' view of the whole garment rather than a close up of where you should be stitching. In particular how to finish the front slit cleanly and sew those corners at the top of the pockets. Its a little tricky to get the lining completely tucked away in this area (although you have under-stitched along the opening which helps). I was actually really chuffed with how the corners turned out...then realised they are concealed behind the front pleat anyway!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Khaki Green Brushed Cotton Orageuse Berlin Skirt

I'm in two minds about this project and think I still love the idea more than the reality. Its one of those garments that I want to wear but whenever I put it on just doesn't feel quite right. I've got a beautiful piece of paprika weighty yet soft slubbed linen in my stash which I think might better suit this style than the crisp cotton, especially unlined so I might give the pattern another whirl with some tweaks. There's plenty to think about before the next version!

April Indie Pattern Update!

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Does anyone else feel a little bit overwhelmed by their sewing queue at the moment? I think it happens with this change of season every year as there are so many things I want to sew for the warmer weather. No that there is any sign of that here in London this morning! The influx of beautiful new pattern releases this month sure hasn't helped. There's a lot to look through as many indie companies launched whole new collections! I'm wishing someone could give me an extra week in my life and put everything else on pause so I can just sew all the lovely new things!


New Pattern Companies!


  • There was a new digital sewing magazine launched this month and along with it a new pattern! Smyly Magazine has been created by Athina and Hattie after the success of the 'Sewing Makes You Love Yourself' challenge earlier this year and the first issue focuses on women who have turned their passion for sewing into a career. Each issue will include a downloadable pattern and the first is the Samantha Dress which is a faux wrap style. 


New Patterns


  • The two new patterns released with the April edition of Seamwork Magazine by Colette were the Natalie Blouse and Jenna Skirt. Both great wardrobe basics, my favourite is the boxy fit and notched collar of the classic blouse.
  • DG Patterns released the Marla Jumpsuit, Top & Dress which is a semi fitted style with lovely pleated bodice detail with v-neckline and dolman sleeves.
  • I love the new Ariana Woven Dress from Style Arc. It has everything I'm after in a feminine strappy summer dress with a flattering classic fitted bodice and full midi skirt. The addition of shirring at the back of the bodice for a comfortable close fit plus pockets on the skirt make this a real winner in my book. I also really like the tie detail on the sleeves of the new Miley Woven Top which was one of their freebies with any purchase in April. They also released the Meghan Jacket which would be perfect made up in a ponte knit. The design features a waterfall front and ties on the cuffs.
  • The new free downloadable releases from Mood Sewciety this month included the Lotus Leggings, Morina Jumpsuit (super glamorous secret pyjamas!) and Lilium Pant. I love how the details of a classic button up shirt are exaggerated in the design of the Melia Blouse and now we've had a brief spell of summer weather in London the new Magnolia and Nyssa Dresses are catching my eye.
  • Hey June Handmade released the Amalfi Dress, the carefree style of which would indeed be perfect for wafting around the Amalfi coast on a hot summer's day! It has flutter or gathered short sleeves combined with a relaxed fit and elasticated waist. 
  • Ohhh Lulu released a free pattern for the Hyacinth Bralette. Constructed from just two small pieces and the perfect simple style to jazz up with a bit of trim this design could be a great stash buster for any knit scraps. Could this finally be the thing that tempts me to dip my toe into the world of sewing lingerie?!
  • One of my favourite releases of the month (and one which I'll probably own by the time you read this, I have no will power!) is the Vernazza Two Piece Swimsuit from Friday Pattern Company. I love the style of the top with tie front and the high rise bottoms really appeal to me right now.
  • The Sew Over It PDF pattern release of the month is the Emmeline Skirt. I love this style for spring and summer and think it would be great in a variety of fabrics. The full, high-waisted style features box pleats, a button front and big bow belt.
  • New from Designer Stitch is the Kate Vintage Tea Dress. A classic, flattering fit-and-flare style with vintage inspired bodice and circular skirt. The pattern also includes a variety of cup sizes for easy fitting. 
  • Love Notions released the Harmony Blouse. An effortlessly stylish design which would be best sewn up in a beautiful silk or viscose woven. The pattern includes four sleeve styles and a keyhole feature at the back of the neckline.
  • Ann Normandy launched a new PDF Pant Pattern. I love that the on trend flared leg of these is created by long godets inserted in the side seam. The design also features a high waist with side zip fastening and a deep welt pocket on the hip.
  • The Spring/Summer collection from Republique du Chiffon has arrived! It consists of six patterns in the form of the Yolanda Dress, Yvonne Playsuit, Jacqueline Jacket, Petula Shirt, Jeanne Blouse and Prune Dress. My favourite has surprised me as its not my usual style but I think I'd get a lot of wear out of Petula; I love the volume and that gathered back yoke.
  • SBCC Patterns have been working on perfecting their latest pattern for the last two years! The Rickey Jacket is a classic blazer with either a notched or contemporary shawl collar and the proportions of the pattern are designed to suit petite ladies.
  • The Billie Jacket is new from PM Patterns. It has a shoulder yoke and princess seamed cut for a slim fit and can be made in a classic single breasted style or double breasted for a moto look.
  • Dessine Moi Un Patron released a new collection of three patterns. The scallop detail at the armhole and across the back of the Bloom button up Dress and Blouse is lovely and I like it as a tie front top. Cherry is a relaxed blouson jacket packed with details and Leaf is a chic dress or top that wraps or buttons at the back.
  • Wardrobe by Me launched two new shirt patterns; one for women and one for men! The Jensen Mens Shirt is a classic with button front, tower plackets, stand and optional collar as well as the option to make with short or long sleeves. The Anna Shirt is very similar in style with the same variations but has slits at the cuffs on the long sleeves and is cut for female proportions.
  • The fifth pattern from Afternoon is the Cosmos Bralette which they have created in collaboration with Create Hobby to celebrate the opening of their Cape Town store. The ideal beginner lingerie pattern.
  • Muse is the new summer collection of patterns from Louis Antoinette, which are all available in both paper and their newly launched PDF format! I love the draped front of the Betty Dress, the waist tie of the Amanda Skirt but am most drawn to the asymmetrical style of the Elvire Top.
  • Also with a new collection out is Laela Jeyne Patterns. La Femme Collection consists of four designs; the Cosette Blouse, Léa Swimsuit and the Josephine and Victoire Dresses. I particularly like the criss cross back and plunging front of the Léa which uniquely can be filled in with lace.
  • New from Street Style Patterns is the 026 Bodysuit. Ideal for wearing with denim, this close fitting style can be made with short or long sleeves and has elasticated leg openings and snap fastenings.
  • Rochad Studio are offering the new Madeline Cardi pattern for free to their newsletter subscribers! It is a great beginner cardigan pattern that would work in a variety of drapey knits with a waterfall front and longer lower hip length.
  • The Robinson Trousers are new from Ensemble Patterns and give you two patterns in one! With six different hem variations and patterns for both stretch and woven fabrics included you'll get a very different result each time. 
  • Rosy Peña Patterns released their first collection which consists of six designs that work beautifully together. The Carolina Jumpsuit is a stunner but I'm most drawn to the Bella Wrap Top; I can't resist a bell sleeve! Also included are the Luisa Trousers, Sophia Flares, Ana Top and Mila Bag
  • Nikki from Beauté J'Adore released her second pattern download for women which is a gorgeous fashion forward Gathered Tunic design. It has a boat neck, gathered waist and high slit. I love it worn over jeans.
  • Closet Case Patterns released a free pattern download to sew your own sewing machine cover! My machine has a hard cover but I was excited to see that the download also includes a pattern for a serger/coverstitch machine. Definitely going to be making one of those to jazz up my sewing space and keep the dust off.
  • The Giverny Dress is the latest pattern from Itch to Stitch and wow is it a beauty! There are many elegant features to this which balance each other perfectly including a pin tucked bodice with slit neckline, wide curved waistband with optional sash and the choice of short or 3/4 length pleated cuffed sleeves.
  • Megan Nielsen released two new patterns this month, one of which is an absolute cracker of a jeans pattern! The Ash Jeans include four different leg styles and I love the proportions and classic style of that back yoke and pockets. The River Dress & Top is a reversible raglan style which can be sewn in knits of wovens and has optional side seam pockets and sash belt. A really versatile wardrobe staple.
  • New from Schnittchen is the Holly Jacket which is accompanied by a video sewing tutorial. Its a cropped college style jacket with ribbed hem, cuffs and neckline and also includes the option to sew with a pointed collar. I'm particularly love with the striped ribbing they've used on the teal sample, so retro! They also released the FREE Margo Skirt which can be made with or without flounces. I like how the asymmetrical ruffle continues up the centre seam!
  • The Maya Linen Pants are new and FREE from Designer Stitch! Just in time for the approaching summer these have a relaxed wide leg with rear patch pockets and a knit yoga waistband for maximum comfort!
  • The last pattern company this month with a new Spring/Summer collection release is Anne Kerdilès Couture. The collection consists of three patterns; the Andria Dress, Côme Trousers and Syracuse Blouse. A few of you were after my recommendations for tapered trousers with a pleated waist when I posted my tartan ones a couple of weeks ago; the Côme Trousers could be a great choice.
  • Wear Lemonade have released the Andy Dungarees which are more of a classic workwear style than their Fionas. The design features a low back, straight legs and five roomy topstitched pockets. Who needs a handbag when dungarees are in fashion hey?!
  • Jily is the most recent release from Ready To Sew and is a beauty of a little boxy slightly cropped top for summer. I love the view with the tie at the centre front hem!


Pattern updates and expansions


  • Grainline Studio launched the Scout Sleeve Variation Pack to accompany one of their first and still very popular patterns, the Scout Tee. The four new sleeve styles included (cuffed sleeve, petal sleeve, short and long sleeves) mean you can really get the most out of your pattern.
  • As the full bicep pattern option for the recently released Montrose Top was so successful Cashmerette have just released a free downloadable full bicep sleeve pattern piece for their Harrison Shirt. Their patterns really are taking all the work out of pattern alterations for you!
  • OhhhLulu released a downloadable expansion pack for the Hyacinth Bralette pattern. A total bargain for all the variety that is included! Th pack enables you to customise your bralette with lace overlays, back variations including a keyhole cut out and strapping and instructions on how to finish with fold over elastic.


Sew-alongs


  • The sew-along for Cashmerette's most recent pattern, the Montrose Top, has begun over on their blog. The posts include sewing up three different versions of the top using very different fabrics with tips and tricks along the way.
  • Indie Sew are running a sew-along for the Moto Sweatshirt recently released by Seamly. Its just finished up over on the Indie Sew blog so all the posts are there if you need tips with a particular stage. 
  • The ladies behind Smyly Magazine will be posting a sew-along for their first pattern, the Samantha Dress on their blog. There will be a video tutorial for version 1 and a step-by-step how-to post for version 2.
  • Grainline Studio are running a Make-Along in collaboration with Madder to go with their newly released Uniform - Knit & Sew book and e-book. Posts on the Grainline blog will be packed with advice and guidance for sewing up the tunic pattern. For all the knitting tips for the accompanying cardigan design check out the posts on the Making blog.
  • There is a sew-along currently running on the Wardrobe By Me blog for their recently released Jensen and Anna Shirt patterns. If you've been hesitant to tackle menswear or tower plackets this could be a great excuse!
  • Sew News have been running a sew-along for the Emerson Crop Pants and Shorts from True Bias. It has been a three part series with super clear step by step photos to follow.


Upcoming!


  • Coming next from Fresh Press Patterns is the Leon Spring Coat. The weather in London can't seem to make up it's mind at the moment so a spring weight coat might be just what I need! They also shared a peep on Instagram at the James Pants which are designed for knit fabrics.
  • I'm very excited to see what the next Closet Case Patterns design will be. They were shooting the samples a couple of weeks ago so the release must be imminent! 
  • Gertie is working on the next patterns for her fairly new Charm Patterns line. From sneaky peeks on Instagram one looks to be a gorgeous 1950s inspired dress with square collar. 
  • Sew Liberated are currently testing their next pattern; the Gypsum Skirt. Its going to feature two variations and deep pockets!
  • It looks like the next pattern from Victory Patterns will be some form of trench coat. They are busy sewing up samples for the Ulysses Trench right now!
  • Thread Theory are about to start testing their next pattern, which they describe as a quick wardrobe staple. 
  • Decades of Style have a new pattern coming out on 2nd May which will be part of their Decades Everyday range. The pattern will be the first in their newly expanded size range of 32"-52" bust.
  • The sneaky peak of the new Pippi Pinafore from Jennifer Lauren Handmade promises side button fastening and lots of yummy topstitching! Looking forward to the release of this later in the week.
  • The next design from Ensemble Patterns will be the Perkins Shirt. They gave us a sneak peak on Instagram of a lovely keyhole and tie detail at the back of a classic collar.


Other Exciting News


  • The No.12 Aalborg Dress & Blouse from How To Do Fashion is now available in paper format. This is a gorgeous 1970s inspired wrap style and the blouse variation also lends itself beautifully to 1950s styling.
  • The Avid Seamstress re-launched their City Trousers pattern. They are a classic cigarette style with a narrow waistband and invisible zip at the rear. With side seam pockets and the option to add hem slits these are a true versatile classic. 
  • Sew Over It launched a new online course this month; Intro to Sewing Shirts. I think this is a great subject for a course as there are so many aspects to sewing a shirt which can be challenging without further explanation when you make your first one. The course includes two patterns; the Ultimate Shirt for ladies and the Hackney Shirt for men. Sew Over It's very first menswear pattern!


As always fell free to add any releases or news I've missed in the comments below and I'll endeavour to get the post updated as soon as possible! Here's your dose of indie sewing inspiration to get you motivated to sew your way through May!


  • I can't get enough of the trousers Novita has been making recently and my latest obsession are these denim Persephone Pants. I was planning to make some Lander Pants for spring but am now torn between the two patterns! 
  • Emanuelle made a beautiful version of the Iris Top from Fresh Press Patterns. I love the fabric that she chose and those overlapping side seams finished with bias binding are a beautiful feature. 
  • I adore this longline Sophie Bikini that Holli made and posted on the Imagine Gnats blog, Isn't that rope print swim fabric the perfect nod to nautical without being too novelty?! It makes me want to book a sunshine break immediately so I can make my own.
  • Sian from Kittenish Behaviour made an incredible pair of Beach Pyjamas. The fabric she chose is also from Til The Sun Goes Down who have the most amazing vintage inspired prints which pair so well with this mid century design. 
  • I adore this hack of the Winslow Culottes from Helen, particularly in my favourite shade of berry red. A pair has immediately been added to my sewing queue...in fact I may have even hunted down the fabric already! 

Jersey Equinox Tees and a Striped Merino Molly Top

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Me-Made-May has arrived! For those of you who haven't come across it before Me-Made-May is a challenge dreamt up by Zoe of 'So Zo...' designed to encourage home garment makers to appreciate and wear their handmade wardrobes more. You set your own pledge for the month which generally focuses on how many handmade items of clothing you want to wear a day/week/during the month and usually document your progress with photos. The biggest challenge for me as always will be finding ways to take the photos every day! I'll be sharing mine on my Instagram Stories if you'd like to follow along. I like to use the month to check on the success of my handmade wardrobe and identify any wardrobe gaps that need filling so I can focus my sewing plans on them. Like last year I'm aiming to wear something handmade every day, and as many completely handmade outfits throughout the month as possible. I could have challenged myself to wear entirely handmade but there are a few things like RTW jeans that I really rely on to wear to work and just didn't have the time to make handmade equivalents for. I actually did a bit of forward thinking this year and identified that my wardrobe was missing a handful of staple everyday items to get me through the month and put in a big old order with The Fabric Store to get me started.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Pattern Fantastique Equinox Tee in Cotton Jersey from The Fabric Store

First up were some basic tees. I already own the Sewaholic Renfrew Top pattern which is great and I've made quite a few of but I was after something with a slightly more relaxed style and higher neckline for layering this time around. I looked at probably every t-shirt pattern going (using The Foldline Sewing Pattern Database) before settling on the Pattern Fantastique Equinox Tee as the one with the ideal combination of elements. I was drawn to the slightly sixties vibe of this design particularly the little cap sleeve and flattering 'slightly wider than a crew' neck. You can bet I'll be trying that bell sleeve out at some point too.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Pattern Fantastique Equinox Tee in Jersey from The Fabric Store

Fabric-wise although it was tempting to order something fun I opted for classic white and grey marl options that will work with multiple items in my wardrobe throughout the summer. I went with this white Lightweight Cotton Jersey and the grey Lightweight Jersey Knit. As they were both described as lightweight I imagined they'd be very similar but I failed to note that the grey is 100% viscose so is fine and semi sheer with some drape and the white cotton jersey is actually fairly robust with some body to it. The cotton jersey is actually very opaque and you could get away with making a summer dress out of it. The differences in them has made for two contrasting tees and a varied construction process as the white was nice and stable and the grey super shifty and curly at the edges! The required patience was worth it for that one though! I cut the straight size ten and both of these are sewn up as intended with no adjustments or length taken off, with the exception of a slight tweak at the neckline which I'll get on to in a moment. I used a metre of each fabric with some fairly large scraps left over.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Pattern Fantastique Equinox Tee in Lightweight Viscose Jersey from The Fabric Store

The pattern is available in both PDF and printed format and I went with the PDF for speed and also because a tee shouldn't mean too many pages to assemble. I found the PDF format a little frustrating. The pattern pieces are whole rather than a half to be cut on the fold so it feels like you are wasting quite a bit of paper and printing. There is no layout provided in the instructions to see which sheet contains what but I've got into the habit of looking through the PDF to check if there are any pages I won't need to print for my size or the view I have chosen. As I was doing the short sleeves I discovered I could get away without pages 13-14 and 17-18 but that's still 27 pages to print for a t-shirt pattern! I also thought there was a page missing from the PDF and presumed it was because there is nothing on it as it is one of the central pieces of the back piece. But no! It turns out page 1, which looks like an explanation page is actually that missing piece as it has the grainline running down the side! I presumed it was just an explanation but there is in fact a code on each page with symbols in grid to show you where that page fits in to the pattern as you assemble it. There are three different symbols, one for each part of the pattern. Page one has the symbol for the back piece on it. I was very confused and if it was my first PDF pattern I would have been really stumped as I was looking everywhere for a note in the instructions explaining this. I'm all for not wasting that first page with the scale square on but I think numbered pages would be a lot more straightforward!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Pattern Fantastique Equinox Tee in Cotton Jersey from The Fabric Store

The instructions for the pattern are on the website rather than as part of the download; the file that comes with the pattern is just a few pages with a cutting layout, size chart (which I loved as it is so thorough and means you can really see the adjustments you might need to make) and basic information about the design, fabric and notions required. The online instructions are generic for pretty much any t-shirt pattern and cover set in and raglan sleeves and various hemming options. I liked that options are presented for a more experienced sewer to choose their preference depending on fabric as we all know knits can behave so differently but I must admit I found this method of presenting pattern instructions a little odd. I'm used to having specific instructions and illustrations for the pattern I'm working on. It made them feel a little vague and I didn't feel like I achieved the best result I could; I certainly wouldn't have done if I was a knit/tee sewing newbie!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Pattern Fantastique Equinox Tee in Lightweight Viscose Jersey from The Fabric Store

The tees still came together pretty quickly as I have made so many knit garments now and go on autopilot with my own construction method so I didn't rely on the instructions much. I sewed twill tape to the shoulder seam allowances for stability rather than the iron on tape they recommend. The one stumbling block I came across was the neckband which I didn't get a very good result on first time around. This is the Pattern Fantastique online tutorial to follow. A fairly wide neckband comes with the pattern which I think adds to the retro feel and I love the grey contrast used on this in the sample. The pattern doesn't come with a specific length of band for each size but rather suggests cutting a strip and assessing how much you should stretch it out as you pin it on. Whilst I understand that this is to do with the fact that different knits have varying amounts of stretch and recovery I've always achieved better results with patterns that do specify a length on the pattern pieces and generally find 10% less than the length of the neckline works well. Both of these knits are fairly stable and don't have that 'ping back' that you get in a lycra blend so I was wary of stretching them out too far but because of this that wide neckband really didn't want to lay flat around the inner edge, particularly at the tight corners of the slight boat neck. I was working on the white tee first and to solve the problem on this one I simply resewed the neckline with a large seam allowance, making the band skinnier and the neckline wider. This worked out quite well but I wonder if the wider neckline is what makes me prefer the grey over this one. When I came to make the grey tee I cut down the width of the band before construction so I've ended up with a skinny band which lays flat but the intended width of neckline.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Pattern Fantastique Equinox Tee in Cotton Jersey from The Fabric Store

Anyway, once I'd battled through those little frustrations and have started wearing the tees they've become very valuable additions to my wardrobe and I plan on making more! Despite having reservations about how the fine lightweight jersey would work for this pattern as I had envisioned something a little more stable I've actually been getting a lot more wear out of the grey tee! It sits a little better on the body and looks neater tucked in to high waisted trousers and skirts. There's something about the white one that I'm not quite sure on and I'm wondering if I should go down a size for a neater fit on the shoulder (although it is designed to be slightly dropped) and do a bit of an FBA as I'm seeing some drag lines around the bust.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Sew Over It Molly Top in Stripe Merino Jersey Mushroom from The Fabric Store

When I was ordering the tee fabric I decided a long sleeve warmer version would definitely be useful too, especially to wear under my ever-growing collection of dungarees so I got a metre and a half of this Mushroom Merino Jersey Stripe too although I didn't have a pattern in mind at the time. Once it arrived I commenced another great big sewing pattern search but started with the PDF pattern stash on my computer first and found the perfect thing. Its too easy to overlook those digital files we have hidden away and get carried away with something new and shiny isn't it?!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Sew Over It Molly Top in Stripe Merino Jersey Mushroom from The Fabric Store

That pattern was the Molly Top & Dress from the Sew Over It My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break ebook and is this is the surprise star of this post! The fit is bang on and the striped merino is amazing, I just feel super comfortable and great in this top. I tested the Mia Jeans pattern way back when this was released and can't believe I overlooked so many of the other patterns in the ebook. It really is a great little wardrobe to sew up and I've got the Erin Skirt lined up next although perhaps I could do with a Molly Dress first!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Sew Over It Molly Top in Stripe Merino Jersey Mushroom from The Fabric Store

This pattern ticks so many boxes for me. Firstly the slim fitted sleeves. This is always my personal preference as I have very small wrists and forearms and don't like to feel like I'm swimming in fabric. It makes it feel like the top fits right when the sleeves are nice and snug. But the design of these sleeves is an added bonus as the top portion is 'grown on' to the body pattern piece and the shoulder seam is actually down above the elbow. Kind of similar to a dropped shoulder but the top portion of the sleeve is still fitted. This detail really lifts an otherwise fairly basic design. Plus I LOVE how this feature works in stripes. The top sleeve has the grain running one way and the lower the other so the stripes change direction and you get a lovely v-shaped intersection of stripes along the shoulder seam running down the arm. I'm particularly happy that I managed to nail the stripe matching for this!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Sew Over It Molly Top in Stripe Merino Jersey Mushroom from The Fabric Store

As well as the sleeves I really like the relaxed but flattering fit through the body which has just the right amount of ease. The size and shape of the neckline is also spot on for my preferences. The width and depth shows off a bit of collar bone without being so wide that it shifts about and slips off the shoulder and it works both layered under other tops/dungarees or on its own.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Sew Over It Molly Top in Stripe Merino Jersey Mushroom from The Fabric Store

I'm used to Sew Over It instructions so this came together incredibly smoothly and was such an enjoyable sew because the merino jersey behaves so well. I wash it in the machine on a 30 degree gentle cycle and use a cool to medium setting on the iron which it responds to really well. I absolutely love this stuff and can't get enough. I've not yet used much merino jersey in paler shades and I was concerned with this one that it would be a little see through as it is on the lighter end of the weight scale but it is nice and dense, the perfect thickness for a warm tee. I love the subtlety and scale of the mushroom stripe although it was a tough choice as The Fabric Store have got a great range of stripes in at the moment. I considered using the stripes in the opposite direction on the neckband as Lisa has in one of her Breton samples but thought it might look a little odd in a stripe of this width and am glad I kept it clean and simple cutting down the centre of one of the wide cream stripes.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Sew Over It Molly Top in Stripe Merino Jersey Mushroom from The Fabric Store

As I did with the Equinox Tees I used my usual construction method with knits and assembled the seams with a narrow and short zig zag stitch on my machine for accuracy and then finished them off on the overlocker. Hems I used a twin needle in my regular machine for. A stretch needle rather than ballpoint worked best on all of these fabrics. I have recently repaired some of the zig zag stitching on my well worn activewear and twin needled hems on other garments using this Maderia Aeroflock thread in the bobbin but didn't use it on these as I still only have black and was impatient! I picked up a cone from Barnyarns to try at the Knitting & Stitching Show and have been so impressed with the resilience it has given my stretch seams and hems! Similar to woolly nylon thread this slightly fluffy thread has some elasticity in it and also has a soft finish so is great for activewear seams in particular which may rub. I'll be purchasing a white/cream and grey cone for use on other projects for sure.

So there we have it. Three incredibly useful knit garments to have in the wardrobe, in quality fabrics, all whipped up in an afternoon! I have a feeling you'll be seeing a lot of all three of these as part of my ensembles during May!

A Nikko Dress and a Nikko Top

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Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Nikko Dress in Arctic Blue Marle Rib Knit from The Fabric Store

I'm increasingly finding myself making at least two or three iterations of a pattern that works for me! Ive got two finished projects to share with you today, both from the same pattern which has fast become my go to for a quick and satisfying knit project that is a really handy addition to my wardrobe. I'm a big fan of the True Bias pattern range; Kelli's style really resonates with me and many of her patterns suit my lifestyle. They're really practical wardrobe staples which still feel 'designed' and on trend. I've made five Ogden Camis to date! When the Nikko Dress & Top was released earlier this year it grabbed my attention as being comfortable and easy to wear but also great fun to style. The pattern comes with variations for either a top or maxi-length dress with side slits and either option can be made with or without sleeves.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Nikko Top in Fuschia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

In a similar way that the Ogden is a great stash-buster for woven fabrics, view A of this pattern is a great way to use up those 'less than a metre' pieces of knits. I wasn't sure how this style would suit me so I started off with this sleeveless top variation so I could test the style and fit without wasting too much time or fabric. I managed to squeeze this out of the fuschia merino jersey I had left over from my winter Kielo Dress. Just today I made a second merino version in a gorgeous teal as I managed to squeeze the pieces out around a long Blackwood Cardigan I was cutting earlier in the week. As well as not taking much fabric it is a super speedy sew; I think I got the teal one sewn in less than two hours this afternoon. The merino is a great match for the top despite being a little on the lightweight wide compared to the pattern recommendations. It has great recovery and presses well so is easy to manipulate into all those lovely shapes.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Nikko Top in Fuschia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

As I wasn't sure how this would turn out I sort of whizzed through the construction without thinking too much and now I'm kicking myself for not doing a better sewing job as it has turned into one of my favourite tops - especially to wear with high waisted trousers like the Flints I have on here! I've since gone back and reinforced the neck stitching and twin needled hem by using some Maderia Aeroflock thread in the bobbin which has a little stretch in and is super strong. The neck is the one area that you really want to make sure your stitching has plenty of give in as that neat little neckline has to stretch quite a lot to get over the head. I sewed both the top and dress up using my regular knit construction method of short and narrow zigzag stitch on the machine and finishing with the overlocker. I twin-needled the hem on the top so it would stretch but just straight-stitched the dress hem as it doesn't need to stretch and was and meant I could simply pivot around the corners when finishing the side splits.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Nikko Top in Fuschia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

Despite appearing to be a simple design there are lots of carefully considered elements to it which I love. Both the slightly cut away shape of the armhole and the knee length side slits are so on trend right now but so easy to wear. One thing to note is that the shape of the armholes do require a careful bra choice; it doesn't need to be strapless but a couple of mine won't stay hidden. My favourite design element is the mock turtleneck and the way it is cut. It is slim and elegantly shaped and the perfect height. Its cut so it sits close to the neck but you don't feel constricted or irritated by it.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Nikko Top in Fuschia Merino Jersey from The Fabric Store

For the dress I used this Arctic Blue Marle Rib Knit from The Fabric Store. It is a cotton modal blend with a quite surprising weight and drape to it as well as PLENTY of stretch across the grain. I haven't had much chance to work with ribbed knits as yet but have been really drawn to them recently. It gave me a bit of trouble which I'll get into in a moment, so I'd really appreciate any rib knit sewing advice you might have! Despite the sewing challenges it presented it does wash and press really beautifully thanks to the cotton content. Plus the rich blue colour is stunning, especially in the marle effect.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Nikko Dress in Arctic Blue Marle Rib Knit from The Fabric Store

I cut the size 6 at the bust and waist and graded out to an 8 at the hip for both garments which is larger on top than my measurements but I was wary of it looking snug. This has worked out great for the top in the fine merino jersey but not so well for the ribbed dress. The pattern does state that the top is more fitted and the dress cut straighter and I do like that the dress doesn't cling around the hips of stomach. I don't feel self conscious at all in this as I do in some other knit designs. However I do feel like fairly heavy weight of this ribbed knit is causing it to hang in a strange way away from the body and not skim the figure as it does in Kelli's samples. I'm not sure if this is to do with too much ease in the design or the less than springy recovery of this knit. Whilst you don't want a 'clingy' knit for this style you want a fabric which will hold a form. It perhaps feels like I should have gone down a size to compensate for the stretch of the rib and I think the size I make next time will depend on the elasticity and weight of the fabric I choose.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Nikko Dress in Arctic Blue Marle Rib Knit from The Fabric Store

I've used this ribbed knit before to make a Renfrew Tee and found it quite challenging to work with. The ribbed nature of the knit makes it quite easy to stretch out as you sew so I ended up with wavy hems on my tee. To combat this with the dress I used strips of 'Steam A Seam' to fix the hem in place before topstitching. You stick the hem in place with this tape and then press it with a warm iron to secure and this stopped this area stretching out as it ran through the machine beautifully. A stretched and wavy hem would have ruined the feature of those lovely side splits! I was also worried about stretching out the armholes so lowered the pressure of my presser foot and took it nice and slowly, being careful not to tug the fabric and allow the machine to pull it through evenly.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Nikko Dress in Arctic Blue Marle Rib Knit from The Fabric Store

I was worried about the rib knit being very bulky around the armholes so used some leftover merino scraps for the armhole binding. The method given for this in the instructions is straightforward to achieve and gives a lovely neat finish but is not particularly delicate as you wind up with three seam allowances enclosed within the 'binding'. Be sure to grade them down generously and give them a good press. This is the most time consuming part of the construction as the visible stitching requires accuracy but a beginner could easily manage with a bit of patience.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Nikko Dress in Arctic Blue Marle Rib Knit from The Fabric Store

That's about all there is to say about these two; lovely to make and lovely to wear! You can definitely expect to see more of these particularly a sleeved version or two later in the year. If you'd like a peek at my teal version of the top I'm sure I'll be wearing it for Me-Made-May at some point in the coming week so keep an eye on my Instagram Stories!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Nikko Dress in Arctic Blue Marle Rib Knit from The Fabric Store

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Crinkled Double Viscose Myosotis Dress

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Today I'm sharing with you a dress which shot straight to the top of my sewing queue and then straight to the top of my blogging queue too. It is the new Myosotis Dress from Deer & Doe. I (along with many other people by the look of my Instagram!) fell immediately in love with this design, in particular view A and it's effortless breezy boho style. I haven't been 100% sold on the ruffle trend that has hit the high street this season but for me this is the perfect amount and placement of ruffle. I've got a Kew Dress cut out and waiting which I'm pretty excited about but have been hunting for the perfect 'right for any occasion' summer dress pattern that I could wear day in, day out. Despite being tempted by both the Papercut Sway and Adrift Dresses I knew when I saw the Myosotis release that it ticked all the boxes.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

Although I haven't yet tried a Deer & Doe paper pattern and this beauty was worth pushing the boat out for I just couldn't wait and ordered the PDF the day after release. It is actually the very first Deer & Doe pattern I've made and I was really impressed with their PDF. I almost printed it at a copy shop as the large fabric requirements led me to believe there would be a huge number of pages but it is just 29 for View A & B and it you only want View B without the ruffles there is a separate file of 23 pages. If you're printing at the copy shop and just want view B you just need to print the first page. I love this thoughtful attention to user friendliness and I didn't feel like I was wasting much paper as with some companies. There is a detailed separate file on printing and assembling your PDF and I like that it comes with a layers option so you can print just the size(s) you need if you like. Part of the surrounding pages are printed in the borders of each sheet which gives you the option to stick your sheets together overlapping the edges of the pages rather than standard trim the stick method. You just have to draw in the ends of the lines where they don't print right to the very edge of the page.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

I didn't intend to make a white one just like the Deer & Doe sample and was in fact looking for a viscose print but then I stumbled across the perfect fabric on Maggie's market stall in Lewisham. She sells bolt ends from high street stores at bargain prices. A tick in the sustainability box for using up excess yardage from the fashion industry which would otherwise go to waste! This double layer crinkle viscose was just £2.50 per metre. I bought 3 metres and surprisingly have nearly 3/4 of a metre left. This pattern looks like a fabric eater according to the envelope but I know a few of you will be relieved to hear it doesn't have to be with some careful pattern piece placement! I've got 2m of 127cm wide rayon that I really want to use for a this dress and in particular this ruffled view which uses more fabric so didn't think I'd have enough. But I've laid out the pattern pieces and realised I can just about squeeze it out! Woohoo! I'm cutting the size 38 so if you're making a larger size you might need more, although a 150cm wide fabric gives you a bit more to play with. That is for the size 38, larger sizes probably will need a bit more, especially in the narrower width.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

This fabric is absolutely ideal for the design. You want breezy, lightweight fabrics with beautiful drape and movement. This is actually surprisingly weighty for a viscose because of the double layer and is the heaviest I'd use for this style as you don't want anything that will be too bulky when gathered up. There's a lot of gathering going on in this design and gathering is really not my favourite sewing thing to do but it proves how much I love the design that I am prepared to go through it all again! The gathering probably took quite a large proportion of the construction time, I had to excursive a lot of patience painstakingly ensuring that the gathers were evenly spread. I just used the old fashioned technique of two rows of basting length stitches on the machine which you then pull up. I might try the zig-zagging over dental floss trick next time to see if it works out quicker. I've never seen the point of investing in a gathering foot when its not something I do very often.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

The real beauty of this fabric is that despite being near enough white and super airy the double layer means it is opaque even in direct sunlight! Its very similar to double gauze in the way it it put together but has even better swish in the movement. Two layers of the crinkled viscose (which is a bit like a slightly dense cheesecloth) are caught together every half inch or so by a little stitch. This grid of stitches does show slightly when you press the fabric really flat but disappears when it softens up again. The fabric made for a slightly challenging sewing experience as the crinkle kind of gives it some stretch as it moves through the machine and flattens out and one layer also shifts slightly against the other. Nothing that had a detrimental effect on the finished dress though!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

I haven't yet needed to wash the dress (as its pretty much fresh off the machine!) and I'm a bit concerned that the crinkled nature might prove problematic when I do. When I pre-washed it it really wrinkled up and the width of the fabric reduced by almost half! This presses out again with a bit of effort and the dress feels pretty oversized so I don't think a bit of shrinkage width ways will necessarily be a bad thing, but I think its going to be tricky to get it looking good again along all those ruffled seams and hard to press areas. I hope not as I want to wear it all the time but lets be honest.. that white is going to need some regular washing! I'l report back.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

After all the fairly quick and satisfying projects I've been sewing recently to enable me to get squeeze some sewing in around a pretty hectic spell at work this felt like quite the lengthy sew. I tackled it over the bank holiday weekend and it took the majority of it. It was enjoyable to get my teeth stuck into something a bit more meaty again but I did wonder if it would ever end at one point! The instructions are good but don't hold your hand so you need a bit of sewing under your belt to get good results with this. The collar is the trickiest part and does require some skill and the ability to be accurate with your seam allowances around tight corners. I found that aspect particularly difficult as the double layer of fabric was quite bulky for such a delicate detail. It would have been much easier in a crisp lawn! I trimmed as much bulk away as I could but but didn't want to go too far as it makes it difficult to tuck the seam allowances away inside neatly.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

Next time I might try my favoured Four Square Walls method for the collar. Whilst I liked that when you topstitched around the collar you were securing down the right side facing you rather than trying to secure the side you couldn't see with your stitching I found it really difficult to get a clean finish where the point of the collar met the facing at the front. I did my best but it looks bulky and is definitely not the best collar I've sewn.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

I deliberated over buttons for quite some time as I had a few options in my stash which were possibilities. I'm not sure I'm 100% in love with these although I like keeping it clean and simple. I might keep my eyes peeled for some little vintage beauties. I'll let you in to a secret and say that I didn't actually open up my buttonholes and make them functional! As the dress is so oversized it easily slips on over the head without opening so I just sewed the buttons on on top of the holes through both layers. If any of you eagle eyed readers can detect a slight green tinge around the buttonholes and darts its because I'm having real trouble getting the chalk from my pencil out of the fabric! Fingers crossed it will fade with a bit of wear and the first wash!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

The double layer of fabric made a hem quite bulky when I wanted to keep it soft like the rest of the dress so I hemmed both my cuffs and skirt by overlocking the raw edge (trimming off some of the length which was to be used in the hem) and then turning that up once and stitching. It still has quite a bit of body but is a finer finish. I used a size 80 microtex needle in my machine and opted to finish nearly all the raw edges on my overlocker before construction as the fabric frayed quite badly.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

There is a lot to like about this design and I feel so happy in it. I love that there are side seam pockets concealed within the folds of that swishy skirt and the length and width of the sleeve feels great. I love a big cuff but like that these aren't full length which works in combination with the fairly short skirt to balance the overall volume of the style. I'm used to a more fitted waist than this and don't tend to wear much in a oversized style so this has taken a bit of getting used to. I actually felt too overwhelmed in this weighty viscose when I finished it and went back in to add waist ties. I sewed two long skinny tubes, turned them right side out and inserted them into the side seams just above the waistline. Being able to pull the waist in at the back with these makes me feel a lot more comfortable with the silhouette and has made the world of difference. I think in a lighter fabric I wouldn't necessarily need them as it would hang on the body differently but I am considering sizing down next time anyway for a neater fit on the shoulder.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: White Crinkled Double Viscose Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

All in all a huge summer sewing success and I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a long hot summer so I can make the most of this. I think for the next while every viscose print I fall in love with will instantly be made into a Myosotis in my head! I can't wait to make another. 

May Indie Pattern Update!

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The pattern releases have been coming thick and fast throughout May, I've been struggling to keep up! There are some absolutely gorgeous new releases plus sneaky peeks of upcoming patterns to tempt you. I must admit I've already bought and sewn a couple of the new patterns in this list, they were so irresistible! Taking part in Me-Made-May has really fired up my sew-jo as I've identified gaps in my handmade wardrobe. Plus the change of seasons always makes me more motivated and excited about sewing new and different things. I just wish I had more time to sew them all! I'll crack on with the good stuff you came here for...


New Pattern Companies!




New Patterns


  • Jennifer Lauren Handmade released the Pippi Pinafore which is a more feminine take on the popular overall dress. The dress is partially lined with an a-line skirt and patch pockets but the best feature is the fitted bib which comes with multiple cup size options making this style more accessible to curvier ladies!
  • New from Closet Case Patterns are the Jenny Overalls and Trousers! These are a modern take on the vintage workwear trend with a wide cropped leg and ultra high rise. I'm particularly taken by the shorts variation and may be changing my summer sewing plans yet again!
  • The two new patterns released with this month's edition of Seamwork Magazine by Colette Patterns were dresses! I must admit I'm incredibly tempted to sew up the Lane Dress which is a figure flattering column dress for knits with waist ties. I might just have the perfect fabric in my stash! The Amber Dress is a contemporary take on a peasant style sundress with gathered tiered skirt.
  • Style Arc kicked off the month with two new oversized shirt patterns. The Phoebe Overshirt is a classic mens style with a statement double cuff but I particularly like the seam lines and swing shape of the Martha Overshirt. The way the short sleeves and pointed side panels grow out of the yoke is a really interesting feature. Mid-month they released the Fifi Woven Pant and Flick Knit Top.
  • I'm not usually one to impulse buy a pattern on release but thats exactly what I did with the new Myosotis Dress which is part of the new collection from Deer & Doe. Here's my version; that swinging boho style is what I want to wear all summer long! The other two designs are pretty stellar too; the Narcisse Pants have a classic high-waisted wide leg cut and the Nénuphar Jacket is a kimono style which I would absolutely wear both variations of.
  • This month started with a big flurry of beautiful, well designed new patterns. The Decades of StyleTLC 107 Kaftan is no exception. Its a dramatic pullover design with pockets and waist ties that thread through inside to give definition at the waist.
  • The joy continued with the new Hilo Dress from Friday Pattern Company who continue to produce some really unique and wearable designs. This is a flowing bohemian knit dress with a layered bodice and the option to make with a super low scooped back.
  • Mood's first free pattern download release of the month was to celebrate Star Wars day! The Delta Cosplay is a mens style based on Hans' jacket. Their second cosplay release was Enif inspired by Deadpool. They also released the Nolana Jeans, Oak Jacket, Piper Shorts, Orchid DressPhoenix Swimsuit (with on trend off shoulder ruffle) and their first maternity pattern, The Olea Shirt. The top portion of the Petunia Romper has caught my eye; love that wrap front and cut out combo.
  • New from Designer Stitch is the Eden Jumpsuit which offers a lot of style choices with a cropped or short leg, sleeveless or cold shoulder sleeve and the option to make as a simple wide leg trouser with elasticated waist.
  • Schnittchen released the Anoush Pants and Shorts. The main feature of these are the unique large curved pocket openings which curve around the hips to the back. They also released the Carmen Shirt and Dress which is either hip or maxi length with double ended darts for shaping through the back. The on trend cold shoulder look is created by the wide ruffle running across the chest and continuing into sleeves.
  • The new releases from DG Patterns this month included the Dana Top, Chelsea Top and Micaela Top and Dress. Micaela is a sporty knit tee with hem vents, Chelsea a tiered pussy bow style and I think I might give Dana a whirl, I love the boxy wrap style and the way it ties at the hip.
  • The Danube Jean Skirt is the lastest design from Itch to Stitch and is a beautiful fitted denim skirt with all the classic jeans style features and side slits. Kennis always creates such classy timeless designs and this is a true wardrobe staple for all ages. She also released the Nottingham Top which is a satisfying, speedy to sew t-shirt with knot detail at the centre front hem.
  • Dessine Moi Un Patron released the Ivy Skirt which is a tiered maxi skirt. I really like the proportions of this and the way it skims the hips then flares out dramatically. Got my eye on that for summer! 
  • The Phoenix Blouse is the latest release from Hey June Handmade. I love this, particularly with the 3/4 length bell sleeves. It appeals to the part of me that loves a bit of bohemian summer style and it could be a real winner with the jeans in my wardrobe.
  • Colette Patterns released the Gwen Dress and Camisole. Its a simple slip style with french finished princess seams and side vents along with the option to add a flounce to the straps. As with all their patterns going forward this is a PDF only release.
  • Thread Theory released their next menswear pattern; the Sayward Raglan. A classic mens raglan tee that promises to be a speedy sew...might this encourage some of us to do a bit more sewing for the men in our lives?! This is the first in a number of new designs coming from them
  • Daughters of Style launched two new designs this month; the Winona Shirt is an oversize style with overlapping back and shirttail hem and the Liv T-Shirt and Dress is a sweatshirt style with long sleeves gathered on to a dropped shoulder.
  • The Sew Over It PDF pattern release of the month was the Lucia Top. It features an off the shoulder frill around the neckline and has long sleeves which is a great pairing I've never thought of. This would look great made in different fabrics for a casual or dressed up look.
  • The new James Knit Pant from Fresh Press Patterns promises the look of a trouser but the comfort of a legging! The design features a tailored straight cut, centre front invisible zip fastening and contoured waistband. 
  • The Hérens Bathrobe and Robe is new from Opian Patterns and is a really cute and practical design. The robe features a curved hem, inseam pockets and (my favourite feature) little pleats at the shoulders. I love the neat yet relaxed fit of this, Chloé has hit on a great balance.
  • The latest release from CocoWawa Crafts could be just the dress my summer wardrobe needs! The Honeycomb Shirt & Dress features a centre front button placket and small stand collar but my favourite design element are the little bow ties which pull the waist in at either side.
  • Merchant & Mills released the Gyo Top & Dress which is a Japanese inspired asymmetrical design which would look gorgeous made up in a linen, double gauze or seersucker for summer.
  • New from Pier and Palace is the Pico Wrap Dress. Jumping onboard with the wrap dress trend they take inspiration for theirs from the Japanese kimono which shows clearly in that beautiful wide obi belt. I also really like the angled armholes and centre front hem.
  • Cashmerette launched the Ipswich Swimsuit which like all of Jenny's patterns is designed with plus-sized ladies in mind. The suit features supportive straps and the option to add a pretty incredible looking underwired foam swim bra and boning along with the choice of one piece or bikini.
  • Wardrobe By Me released two new patterns this month. The first is the Summer Skirt which is a wrap style and features two ruffle options plus a contoured waistband, elasticated at the back for comfort. They also released the Classic T-Shirt which would be perfect for that nineties crew neck and jeans look.
  • Made by Rae released Jade which is a knit top with multiple mix and match sleeve and neckline options. There's either a boat neck or ballet neckline to choose from and elements of this can be mixed with her Isla pattern for even more mileage.
  • New from Waffle Patterns is the Pine Yoke Blouse. The design is semi-fitted with a front a back yoke with box pleat beneath. I like the button back fastening and option to make with a high collar or round neck.
  • How To Do Fashion launched their No.13 Paris pattern which is an absolutely gorgeous 1960s wiggle dress design with asymmetrical features. So chic!
  • The York Pinafore is the latest release from Helen's Closet. It has a lovely cocoon shape and scooped sides and offers two choices of length, neckline and pockets which you can mix and match to create your perfect style.
  • There is a new free pattern available from In The Folds for Peppermint Magazine. This time it is a gorgeous pair of Wide-Leg Pants which feature a fly front, pockets and a shaped waistband.
  • DP Studio released their fourth collection of patterns. The Spring/Summer 2018 Collection is of their usual unique style and includes this fab workwear inspired jumpsuit, a beautiful strapless dress, versatile shirtdress and fashion forward jeans amongst many others. Make sure to check out the line drawings to really appreciate these. I'm about to cut out a pattern from one of their earlier collections so will let you know how I get on!
  • The Tabor V-Neck is the latest release from Sew House Seven and it is a t-shirt, crop top and sweater for all seasons! It has a few different hem styles, sleeve styles and necklines to choose from. My favourite is the combination of deep v-neck with wide band an a dropped shoulder.
  • True Bias launched the Yari Jumpsuit which has a relaxed fit with cute little straps with d-rings at the sides to cinch it in at the waist. It has four views including sleeveless and small extended sleeves plus shorts or a tapered leg. I think it could be a great match for some soft chambray I have in my stash!
  • Ploen Patterns released the Astrid Skirt which is a really cute little button up flared style. It looks great in the crisp striped fabric they picked for the sample. Available in 12 sizes in PDF format.
  • New from Green Style Creations is the North Shore Swimsuit. The pattern includes a one piece cutaway swimsuit and a bikini option with an incredible amount of variations to choose from. There are six front styles and sizes back styles to mix and match for the top and four bottom options with different levels of coverage. A great purchase if you need a lot of swimwear.
  • 5 out of 4 Patterns released the Stella Romper (which also comes in a girls version for those of you who sew for the little ones in your life!). This relaxed little number with off the shoulder ruffle neckline can be made as a one piece or separate tank and shorts.
  • Last but by no means least The Maker's Atelier released The Sun Dress just this morning! This is a relaxed, breezy style for super hot days and features a curved drawstring hem with scooped back neckline.


Pattern updates and expansions


  • The Tailoress has been working on updating a few of her patterns over the last month. Her dog clothing patterns (Jasra Tee and Toby Jumper) have an improved, less bulky fit and the Sabrina Swimsuit now features slimmer ties with a slightly different placement and fit.


Sew-alongs, Tutorials and Online Courses


  • Megan Nielsen has been running a thorough sew-along for her new Ash Jeans. So useful for all those little construction elements of jeans sewing that will be new to many, including the dreaded fly front! Her samples are beautifully made so I have been keeping my eyes peeled for new tips.
  • Thread Theory have posted a speedy sew-along for their new mens Sayward Raglan. A great one for beginners looking to pick up tips on sewing with knits, especially those looking to branch out with their first menswear project! 
  • Helen from Helen's Closet will be running a sew-along in June for her Suki Kimono pattern to coincide with being the chosen pattern for the month for project #sewmystyle.
  • Alongside the release of her new Ipswich Swimsuit, Jenny from Cashmerette has launched 'Swimsuit Making for Curves'; an online course formed of video tutorials guiding you through the process of sewing your own supportive swimsuit.


Upcoming!


  • I am SO excited to say that a new pattern is on the way from Closet Case Patterns...and its going to be named after me! I couldn't believe it when Heather Lou told me and am a bit blown away that she'd think of me for one of her patterns. She gave away on Instagram that the Fiona will be a fitted dress and from what I've seen it looks like it will be a beauty! 
  • The Basic Bikini Wells Bay is being tested by Halfmoon Atelier. It looks lovely and simple in a chic scandi way from what we can see so far!
  • Ensemble Patterns are testing the Perkins Shirt, Tunic and Dress which makes a feature out of the raglan sleeves with a tie back and open yoke details.
  • The next issue of Smyly Magazine will come with a free jumpsuit pattern including three different versions. You can find some preview pictures on Instagram; I love the combination of tapered leg and relaxed wrap bodice.
  • Soon to come from Making Patterns Fly will be a halter neck top design. It features really cute gathering and ties at the neckline and would look gorgeous in a breezy muslin or lawn for summer.
  • Pilot Patterns are a new British independent pattern company launching soon. Their first pattern looks like it will be the Lily Lucy Dress which features flutter sleeves
  • Afternoon Pattern Company are currently testing their upcoming new design; the Sparrow Wrap.
  • By Hand London are working on their next pattern, Eloise. From what I've seen on Instagram it looks like a dress with a ruffled hem and dramatic sleeves; I can't wait to see more!
  • Charlotte Kan is currently testing the Parsec Leggings pattern which promises to be a speedy sew for four-way stretch fabrics and has three inseam lengths.
  • The next Lila & June pattern is going to be for a summer button down dress. I love the wine red linen and waist tie detail of the sample that we've seen peeks of so far!


Other Exciting News


  • Scroop Patterns have been working on releasing their patterns in paper format and the first two are now available! The Rilla Corset and Ngaio Blouse paper patterns are avaiable exclusively through Wearing History at the moment.
  • The Wearable Studio launched the first 'semi-printed' version of their patterns. The pattern pieces are mailed out to you but the instructions are still sent digitally; saving on paper but avoiding the hassle of assembling a PDF is a win win! The Franki Top is now available to purchase in this format.
  • There's a new indie sewing book in town and it is a collaboration between four European pattern designers; Atelier Charlotte Auzou, C'est moi le patron!, Orageuse and Pauline Alice. Robes includes eight new dress sewing patterns, two from each designer. I really adore the Garance from Orageuse and am wondering if I can find the time to sew it up before my next press night! The book is currently only available in French.
  • The Deer & DoeMélilot Shirt is the latest in their pattern line to be released in PDF format. I was very impressed with their PDF when I used it for the Myosotis dress recently. 
  • Louise from Atelier Louise who released a couple of gorgeous sandal patterns last year has launched a new business called Create Space Adelaide. Her sandal patterns and lots of  information about shoe-making are now available on that site and Etsy shop and there are patterns for making headwear and other accessories set to be released in the future.
  • The Fable Dress from Vesta Patterns is now available in printed format. Their PDF version has also been updated to include copy shop format options.


I'm off to get straight back on my machine, all I want to do is sew at the moment and I'm squeezing it in whenever I can! If your sewing motivation needs a bit of a kick here's your daily dose of indie sewing inspiration from the online community...


  • Katie's midi length Inari Tee Dress inspired one of my own sewing projects this month which you may have spotted on my Instagram as it has made a couple of Me-Made-May appearances! All of Katie's choices are spot on here; fabric, length and the slight slimming of the design through the side seams.
  • When you get dressed in the morning do you ever wish you could wear something that is currently in pieces on your sewing table? I've had that relationship going on with the Persephone Pants for about three weeks now! This white pair by Lisa from Tessuti and actually the other washed denim pair in the same blog post have got me really inspired.
  • I could not pull off this look but Sallie is doing it with aplomb! She made the perfect textured fabric choice to show of the gathered yoke details of her Petula blouse from Republic du Chiffon. Look at that beautiful shoulder!
  • Another pattern I really should have taken a closer look at before is the Mimi G Jessica Dress which Bianca has made a stunning version of. Love her fresh fabric choice and how the midi length works with the style of the bodice.
  • Helen's version of the Myosotis Dress is absolutely beautiful in a crisp floral print. I've got a bit of pink printed rayon lined up for my second iteration of this pattern and seeing this has tempted me to try out this view...although it will be hard to resist the beautiful ruffles!

Textured Ponte Inari Tee Dress

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This little number has jumped the blogging queue as I wore it a few times during Me-Made-May and got a lot of questions on Instagram about pattern and fabric details and what alterations I made. I thought it was worth answering them in a proper blog post. Plus any garment which gets worn three times in the two weeks after you finish it (despite the fact that I was trying to mix things up for May!) deserves sharing and documenting promptly!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Inari Tee Dress in Pink Textured Ponte Knit from Sew Over It

The Inari Tee Dress from Named Clothing has been a big hit within the online sewing community and it has been on my wish-list for a long time despite me having some reservations about how the style would suit me. I dipped my toe in the water last year with a woven version of the cropped tee which I never actually blogged as despite still wearing it on the odd occasion I didn't count it as a huge success and haven't yet figured out the best way to style it. The fit isn't fantastic on me and it looks very square, sticking out below the chest in an odd way. Perhaps I chose a fabric with too much body? I was disappointed as Named patterns generally seem to fit me well and some of my favourite handmade garments are their designs (see here and here!).

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Inari Tee Dress in Pink Textured Ponte Knit from Sew Over It

Anyway, that experience slightly put me off and apart from the odd reminder when a beautiful version popped up in my blog feed I had almost forgotten about my plans to try the dress. Boy am I glad I remembered though! This project actually started with the fabric as unusually for me I made a fabric purchase without a specific project in mind. I'd popped in to Sew Over It to buy another piece of fabric I had spotted on their website and fell in love with the texture and subtle pattern of this unusual ponte knit (unfortunately no longer available). Quite a light weight for a ponte knit, it has a nice drape and movement too it along with the stability and structure you would expect. The diamond pattern is woven through the fabric and as well as variation in the colour there is a slight variation in the thickness and texture of the weave which is really lovely. It is a polyester so gets a little sticky when it is really hot but not unreasonably so and apart from that has been comfortable to wear and delightful to work with.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Inari Tee Dress in Pink Textured Ponte Knit from Sew Over It

I've never been much of a pink wearer so this spontaneous fabric choice rather surprised me but I'm actually loving it. I've found myself quite drawn to dusky and blush shades recently and have just ordered some soft pink merino for a cardigan too; I think it must be that subconscious absorption of the current trends! It took me a while to decide what to make with it as I was worried the colour was a bit too close to my skin tone to use for a dress and might wash me out. After mulling it over I took the plunge anyway and raided my pattern stash for knit dress patterns. I emerged with the Inari and after a quick google of other makes decided it was the ideal candidate.

The fabric is a great match for this design. It has a decent amount of stretch combined with a lovely drape but still maintains a bit of structure which is useful to hold the split hem feature of this design. The hem vents and hem itself do have the potential to get stretched out and wavy in a knit. Luckily the stability of this particularly knit gave me no problems but if you're having trouble with yours I recommend stabilising the area first by using a fusible stay tape or 'Steam-a-Seam' along the stitching line.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Inari Tee Dress in Pink Textured Ponte Knit from Sew Over It

As for the pattern now I've figured out how to alter it to suit my body shape and proportions I'm completely in love! It is incredibly comfortable but feels really chic and looks as good at the end of the day as the start. The design is elevated above being a basic t-shirt dress by some simple, carefully chosen design elements. The hem vents are a really contemporary simple touch and that neckline sits beautifully. The shape and size is spot on for my personal preferences. The side seams of the dress gently curve towards the front which is really clever. As well as giving shape to the dress they bring those side seam slits around towards the front making them more pronounced.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Inari Tee Dress in Pink Textured Ponte Knit from Sew Over It

I think what has put me off of making this before is that I wasn't sure how the oversized, slightly cocoon shape would suit me and unfortunately I definitely didn't love this when I first tried it on after sewing the side seams. I increased the seam allowance (right the way up under the arm) to 1" instead of the requested 1cm but it didn't make much of a difference to how I felt in it. I don't know why this design looks so great on everyone but on my body shape it just feels like a tent! Was it my fabric choice? Or just that I'm not used to seeing myself in this shape? Luckily I had a flash of inspiration and the current trend for tie belts saved the day! I wanted to go with quite a chunky dramatic belt but the leftover fabric determined a fairly slim and long one instead which I now love. It has totally transformed how I feel about the dress and I think the combo of longer length plus belt really works.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Inari Tee Dress in Pink Textured Ponte Knit from Sew Over It

I added 5 inches to the length as when I did a Google/Instagram search of the pattern I tended to prefer those that were a little longer. I guessed at 5" by holding the pattern piece up against me and going a bit longer than I thought I needed figuring I could always take a bit off when hemming. In the end it turned out perfect. I'm 5ft 3" in case you're thinking of doing the same. I extended the side slits by 2" as I felt that would better suit the proportions of the longer length and I really like this. I love how the dress moves as I walk as a result. I'm really glad I went with the midi length as I think above the knee with those slits would feel a lot less practical. You also need a little extra length to accommodate what is taken up when you tie a belt around it. Make sure to tie the belt around the dress when putting it on to decide hem length as it affects how it hangs quite dramatically.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Inari Tee Dress in Pink Textured Ponte Knit from Sew Over It

I definitely prefer this design in a knit and am now kicking myself that I didn't get around to making it sooner. There's something about the drafting of the sleeve/armhole that feels a bit restrictive in a woven. Everything sits a bit better in a knit and allows for comfortable movement. I cut the size 38 as always. Usually with Named patterns this is pretty much spot on with no alterations. This didn't work for me in the woven but is great in the knit, particularly now I've taken it in under the arm an extra bit. For reference my measurements are roughly 34" bust, 27" waist and 38" hip. I had 1.5m of the fabric and had just enough to squeeze out my tie belt once I'd cut the dress with the extra length.

I veered off the instructions and resorted to my normal order of construction for tees. I attached the neckband as the second step after assembling the shoulder seams and after this inserted the sleeves flat, sewing the side seams and under arm as one before attaching the cuff bands in the round as the final step. This pattern is designed for both woven fabrics and knits and I think the instructions slightly favour construction for wovens. I used a short and narrow zig zag stitch on my regular machine for accurate construction with a size 90 stretch needle. I finished all my seams on the overlocker and used twin needle topstitching to secure the neckband in place. You don't need to worry too much about the stretch of your stitches with this design as it doesn't have any negative ease.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Named Inari Tee Dress in Pink Textured Ponte Knit from Sew Over It

This was such a great project for me right now as I've got hardly any time to sew but am feeling really inspired to do so and have quite an overwhelming sewing queue and pile of fabric in front of me! This is really speedy to sew, about 3 hours including cutting, so felt great to have actually finished and achieved something. The only problem is I've now just increased my sewing queue because I want to make more of the same dress! Every fabric shop I go in now I've got my eyes peeled for interesting knits of a good mid weight!

Orange Linen Erin Skirt & Blush Satin Ogden Cami

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Sometimes a simple design is all you need to showcase a spectacular fabric and that is certainly the case for this skirt. The Cloth Shop has to be one of my favourite fabric shops in London and is well worth the trip over to Ladbroke Grove if you haven't been there already. Its not particularly cheap but the fabrics are all beautiful; natural fibres, gorgeous colours and block prints and top quality. They also stock a particularly wonderful selection of Indian trimmings which are very reasonably priced and a selection of handcrafted household items. Its a delightful shopping experience and a treat for the eyes! This is their washed linen in 'Seville'; an irresistible shade of burnt orange. It is soft, weighty, with a gorgeous drape and slubby texture. It's £26 a metre in the plain colours and I only needed a metre for this skirt so not bad considering the quality. It does wrinkle up considerably over the course of a day but I like that look and it presses, washes and sews well.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Cloth Shop Orange Linen Sew Over It Erin Skirt and The Fabric Store Blush Viscose Satin True Bias Ogden Cami

I had been thinking about using this linen for a summer version of the Berlin Skirt but as my previous version wasn't quite the success I hoped for I re-thought the plan. This is the Erin Skirt from the Sew Over It My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break ebook, a simple, fitted, button-up style. I cut between the size 8 and 10 as I usually do for Sew Over It patterns and it fits a treat. I was concerned about how practical this shape would be for my day to day life as I need to move around a lot but this actually has a much straighter cut than a pencil skirt and the perfect amount of ease to be comfortable. Initially the skirt was hitting at a midi length which is a bit longer than intended by the pattern. It didn't look bad but I had in mind a few helpful comments left on my Berlin Skirt post and was wary of it hitting at the widest part of my calf which can have a less than desirable effect proportionally. I kept pinning the hem up higher and higher and assessing the look, pinning each side at a different height so I could compare the difference. Eventually I decided that just above the knee like this felt most 'me'. For reference, I'm 5ft3" and I took 4.5" off the length and used 1/2" then 1" inch for the hem. The pattern suggests 5/8" but I liked the look of the wider hem.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Cloth Shop Orange Linen Sew Over It Erin Skirt and The Fabric Store Blush Viscose Satin True Bias Ogden Cami

The skirt was so quick to sew; after cutting it probably took me a couple of hours. It came together beautifully and as a result was so much fun to sew. The linen is a dream to work with and the pattern is well drafted with clear instructions as usual. This is the third pattern I have made from the My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break ebook (see my Mia Jeans and Molly Top) and it really is a cracker and great value for money. I wasn't blown away by any of the patterns when it was first released but am so pleased I remembered my copy as all five designs are true classic wardrobe staples. None of the designs scream 'ooo this is just so you!' but each one has been worn much more often than I expected. Good fit, good drafting and simple but well thought out designs and construction.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Cloth Shop Orange Linen Sew Over It Erin Skirt and The Fabric Store Blush Viscose Satin True Bias Ogden Cami

I came across one odd wooden button in my stash which I thought looked great with the fabric and had a feeling I bought it in Cloth Houseas  a sample for a show I was working on but unfortunately I either got the source wrong or they've long since sold out! I luckily happened across something very similar in Liberty of all places. I wouldn't usually shop for buttons in there but was on the hunt for a present for a friend and was pleasantly surprised to discover that these were only 40p a button, much cheaper than the original I was hunting for. There's a slightly coppery tone in the wood which I think works really well with the orange. The pattern requests 25mm buttons but these are in fact 20mm. I always err on the side of slightly smaller than recommended with buttons as there's something about a really big button that makes a garment shout 'I'm homemade!' to me.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Cloth Shop Orange Linen Sew Over It Erin Skirt and The Fabric Store Blush Viscose Satin True Bias Ogden Cami

I did find that the buttonhole markings given on the pattern pieces weren't particularly useful once the skirt was assembled. They didn't seem to be central on the placket so I used them as guidance for spacing but marked my own. I also lost track of the marking on the waistband which I think ended up on the centre front edge rather than in a useful button position so again marked my own. I think a beginner would benefit from more guidance for this step as the instructions say to simply 'mark your buttonholes using the guide on the pattern' and notes that the top one should be horizontal and the rest vertical. You want that top buttonhole to be slightly off centre to keep the waistband closed at the right position. On a close fitting style like this the button will naturally pull to the far end of the hole so you want that position to be in line with the centre front and other buttonholes. If the centre of the buttonhole is on the centre line things will end up askew when the skirt is worn.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Cloth Shop Orange Linen Sew Over It Erin Skirt and The Fabric Store Blush Viscose Satin True Bias Ogden Cami

The pattern suggests you only need interfacing if you are using a lightweight fabric but as my linen is pretty soft compared to the denim which I think the pattern is designed for I opted to use a lightweight woven fusible on the waistband and centre front edges where the buttons are. I did a little sample on a scrap first to check that it wouldn't ruin the drape and movement of the fabric and think I made a good decision. It adds a little crispness and strength to those edges.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Cloth Shop Orange Linen Sew Over It Erin Skirt and The Fabric Store Blush Viscose Satin True Bias Ogden Cami

I really like the topstitching detail on this pattern, there are double lines along the pocket opening and placket edges and then a single line around the waistband and along the hem. I think a little bit of topstitching can really help a garment look professional and less home made don't you? I picked the colour of the thread from memory as I forgot to take a sample with me and I'm ironically kicking myself for making such a good guess as you can hardly see the lovely topstitching which I am really pleased with, even around those tricky corners on the waistband!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Cloth Shop Orange Linen Sew Over It Erin Skirt and The Fabric Store Blush Viscose Satin True Bias Ogden Cami

The top in these photos is also a new addition to my handmade wardrobe and I'm sure many of you recognise it as the Ogden Cami by True Bias. I don't have a huge amount to say about the pattern as I now have no less than six (yes six, see a couple here) versions of this beautiful little basic in my wardrobe, some of which I have hacked the pattern around a bit for. I've made it up in a wide variety of fabrics, all of which have turned out great but given very different results. This is sewn up in Blush Viscose Satin Twill from The Fabric Store, which is stocked in a variety of colours. The viscose is slinky and slippery yet the twill weave provides a slightly crispier finish with a little more body than you'd expect from a silk satin. It certainly makes a great summer top that is cool and comfortable against the skin. I think these fabrics would be absolutely fantastic used as linings for coats, skirts or dresses. It feels a bit more robust than silk so would probably withstand a good bit of wear and tear. I'll report back after this one has had a good number of goes through the wash!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Cloth Shop Orange Linen Sew Over It Erin Skirt and The Fabric Store Blush Viscose Satin True Bias Ogden Cami

I cut the size 4 and shortened the straps by 2" as with every other previous version of the pattern and am happy with the fit and ease. The slippery satin was indeed very tricky to cut and sew, particularly around where the straps meet the neckline. This is a fiddly bit of sewing in any case that requires some patience and in this instance I used extra pins and a short stitch length to ensure accuracy and strength. I french seamed the side seams (the satin does fray quite badly but presses well) and as usual used pinking shears to finish the neckline seam as it also does the job of notching those curved edges for you!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Cloth Shop Orange Linen Sew Over It Erin Skirt and The Fabric Store Blush Viscose Satin True Bias Ogden Cami

I absolutely love this combination of blush pink and burnt orange. It was a bit of a happy accident as both projects ended up on my sewing table at the same time and I just adored the combination of warm tones and differing tactile textures together. It has become a favourite summer outfit and despite not being much of a pink wearer I've since ordered some soft pink merino jersey for a cardigan so I can integrate a bit more of this delicious colour combo into my wardrobe. 

June Indie Pattern Update!

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June has been an incredibly busy month for me which has left me incredibly frustrated as I had so little time to spend on my sewing machine! I can't wait to get some quality sewing time in and my teeth stuck into the next big project, especially after seeing some of the inspiring new pattern releases this month! I don't think I've been so good at keeping up with the indie sewing new and pattern launches this month so please do add in anything you'd like to share in the comments and make sure to check out each-other's recommendations.


New Pattern Companies!


  • The ever so talented Claire-Louise A.K.A the Thrifty Stitcher has launched a new line of patterns available through the Sewing Quarter and her website in paper format. Her first pattern is the Fiona Hobo Bag (I particularly like the name of course!) and the second is soon to follow.


New Patterns


  • So this list is usually in no particular order but when the pattern is your namesake I think it deserves to be top of the queue right?! The Fiona Sundress is the latest release from Closet Case Patterns and is a true stunner. I was their pattern muse this time around and Heather Lou has basically created my dream dress! I am so stunned and touched. Both views have a button up front and princess seamed bodice. View A has wide straps and a midi-length column skirt with side vents and View B has a gorgeous low back with cross straps and the option for a mini or below knee length skirt. Be prepared for this blog to be filled with them.
  • Style Arc released the Annabelle Woven Dress which is a sleek and sophisticated wrap style. The pattern features an optional small double edged ruffle along the bodice wrap edge and cuffs for the cap sleeves. They also launched the Catalina Designer Dress which has statement balloon sleeves which are pleated into a raglan shoulder seam.
  • The new collection from Trend Patterns is formed of three stunning new designs. The TPC20 Shirt & Shirtdress and TPC19 Slip Dress are both classic styles with their unique twist but my favourite of the bunch is the TPC18 Twist Dress which has a flattering relaxed cut and twist feature in the front which can be made at the centre or off to one side.
  • The two new patterns released with Seamwork Magazine this month work well together when made in the same fabric as a kind of faux romper. The Kristin Top is a boxy cropped style which wraps around the body and has three armholes and no fastening. The Heidi Shorts also have a relaxed fit with high pleated waist and the member exclusive pattern bonus this month turned these into a skort. 
  • I mentioned that Merchant & Mills released the Gyo Top & Dress last month but completely missed that they also released the Francine Top, Clementine Skirt, Ottoline Shirt and Heroine Jeans. I thought I'd include them this month as these gorgeous workwear inspired designs are all definitely worth attention!
  • Sarah Kirsten sent out the Walnut Wrap Skirt as a free download for newsletter subscribers. The download includes instructions to draft and sew your own cute streamlined wrap design.
  • New from Tessuti is the Hazelwood Top. This is going high on my sewing list for autumn. I love the relaxed funnel neck and swinging a-line shape which is emphasised in sturdier knits. They also released the Felicia Pinafore Dress. A simple shape for any season with sleeveless bodice, slightly dropped waist and gathered skirt.
  • The Emma Racer Back Slip and Bralette is new from Measure Twice Cut Once. The pattern is designed for knits and features a slim racer back and cups shaped with gentle gathering. I love the simple sophistication of this and the binding finish.
  • Making Patterns Fly released the Top Halter which is a gorgeous simple lined design which would look best in really lightweight, floaty fabrics like the sample. The halter neck is gathered front and back with a tie.
  • Itch to Stitch released the Crystal Cove Cami which has a relaxed fit and spaghetti straps. It features an overlapping back with curved hem which would be lovely and cool in the heat of summer. The pattern comes with pieces for A-DD cup.
  • The Libby Shirt was Sew Over It's PDF pattern release of the month. It is a cropped style with a relaxed fit, open notched collar and short grown on sleeves with cuffs. This would look great made up in a fun rayon print and paired with jeans.
  • The new Ulysses Trench from Victory Patterns has caused quite the stir on social media and it is easy to see why! Despite my brain being filled with summer sewing ideas this has made me think about sewing for next season; definitely one for the wish-list. It is a contemporary draped take on the classic trench with beautiful and clever details such as the belt loops being part of the rear storm flap.
  • Nina Lee released what is basically my dream dress pattern in the form of the Mayfair Dress. I've got one RTW summer maxi dress which is so old and well worn that it has holes in but I've been too lazy to try and recreate. This jersey design is pretty much a dead ringer and I'm so excited to make multiple versions! The dress features a gathered front with grown on collar and waist ties and you have the option to make maxi or knee length as well as three sleeve lengths to chose from.
  • The new releases from Mood Fabrics this month included the Rowan Dress and Rosa Blouse the glamorous cut out sleeve of which I love. They also released the Rosemary Blazer, Sage Shorts and Solandra Gown which features a silk chiffon cape.
  • The Clare Dress is new from DG Patterns; a knit faux wrap dress with gathered skirt and gorgeous open flared sleeves. They also released the Silvia Top & Dress which is a knit design with flared sleeves and shape provided by the shirring across the front waist.
  • Louis Antoinette Swing in PDF format
  • The new Roksi Trio from Amy Nicole Studio is a clever design including a swing style crop top, tank and dress. All three elements can be layered over one another for a tiered look plus each element is reversible so you can mix and match to your hearts content.
  • Tessuti Felicia Pinafore Dress
  • Issue 3 of Lisa Comfort magazine is out now and includes the Lottie Dress pattern; a simple, strappy summer classic with a button-up front. She has also added a couple of summer designs to her new Poppy and Jazz line, both of which make for a very co-ordinated little look. They are the Raspberry Romper & Hat and Daffodil Dress & Pants.
  • Wearologie released the Aestiva Sleeveless Vest. It can be made either short at waist length with a waistband and mandarin collar or in a longer length which I love the drama of! I think this would look great made up in linen and layered over a breezy linen dress of a different shade. 
  • New from Hot Patterns this month are the HP 1235 Riviera Deauville Pull-On Pants and HP1234 Wong-Singh-Jones Kimono Shirt-Jacket which a a truly beautiful elegant pyjama style top with kimono sleeves. I'd love to make this up in a dramatic silk satin print.
  • Simple Sew released the Tara Button-Back Dress. It has an empire line bodice, short sleeves and detail in the back which buttons all the way down.
  • Greenstyle Creations have released some real gems of late. The Havana Dress is the latest and the Bohemian maxi vibe is right up my street. There are three lovely back options including a racer shape, low scoop and the unique lace up style which is my personal favourite.
  • The Perkins Shirt Dress is new from Ensemble Patterns. It has a relaxed fit, grown on cuffed short sleeves and either a gathered or flat yoke. All four lengths of this look really contemporary and wearable and my personal favourite is the dress with side slits.
  • Goheen Designs released the Huxley Backpack. I've been thinking about making myself a practical bag and this could be just the ticket. The larger size is big enough for my laptop and it can convert from backpack to crossbody bag to bike bag. You can also make it with or without the lid flap.
  • The Brome Dress & Top is new from Fancy Tiger Crafts and is available in both paper and PDF format. It offers three sleeve options and three lengths with lots of lovely details to sew including a front placket, narrow band collar and cuff bands.
  • The new Carmen Flounce Skirt from Designer Stitch has all the appeal of an on trend ruffled wrap skirt with non of the wind issues as it is a clever mock wrap style. I think they've got the proportions of the frill just right.
  • Wardrobe by Me released a new men's pattern in the form of Cargo Shorts. They have been well thought out with deep pleated side pockets and back reinforcement. A really great practical and wearable project to make for you men or the men in your life. 
  • The Pixie Tee is the latest release from Chalk & Notch and has a relaxed fit with two sleeve options and either a hem band or gathered hem ties. 
  • PM Patterns have just released Suùn; a dress or top for women with a v-neck line created by gathering fabric into the shoulder yoke and which has three depths to choose from. I love the sample that has piping along the gathered shoulder yoke seam, what a lovely detail.
  • The Kirei Camisole pattern is new from Blank Slate Patterns. The knit design includes the option for a built in shelf bra and the choice between a fitted or swinging body skimming fit.
  • The ladies from Smyly Magazine have launched the Abi Jumpsuit. Designed for knits the sleek style has the option for wide or tailored and cropped, long or short length legs. It makes use of the bodice from their Samantha Dress so if you already own this you can purchase an add on of just the trouser pieces.
  • Now available on freesewing.org is the Penelope Pencil Skirt which is a classic fitted design. This heralds the beginning of a number of new womenswear patterns on the site, the next being for a circle skirt.
  • Madalynne released a new pattern in collaboration with Simplicity. The 8711 pattern includes an underwired bralette, with a floating bridge to hold a continuous monowire for support and also a pair of undies with a ruffle feature at the back.
  • Released just yesterday are two new designs from Tilly & The Buttons. The Stevie Top or Tunic Dress has a modern boxy fit with the choice of ties or button loop closure at the back. The Seren Dress is a classic button up strappy summer dress with the option to add a neckline flounce.


Pattern updates and expansions




Sew-alongs, Tutorials and Online Courses


  • Megan Nielsen has been running a detailed sew-along for her recently released River Dress & Top. The tutorials include two methods of sleeve insertion and tips and tricks for making this design in both wovens and knits.
  • The True Bias Yari Jumpsuitsew-along posts are now all up including a hack to make yours with a long tie around the waist instead of the short straps and d-rings to cinch it in.
  • To celebrate the Suki Kimono being June's #sewmystyle Helen from Helen's Closet has been running a sew-along for the pattern over on her blog. It has been super in depth with a few alternative construction methods and hack ideas thrown in so worth a look.
  • Love Notions have been running a sew-along for their Cadence Dress & Top including some really useful posts on fitting and adjustments you can make.
  • Gertie is hosting a sew-along for her B6556 dress pattern on her blog and facebook. If you join the facebook group you can have a good chat about your project, post photos and share/ask for fitting tips and advice.
  • Fancy Tiger Crafts have been posting a series of instructional videos for sewing their latest pattern, the Brome Dress & Top. There area number of fiddly details involved in this dress including cuff bands and partial plackets so I think this is a great resource.
  • A complete guide and sew-along for sewing Madalynne's new underwired bralette and ruffle undie pattern with Simplicity can be downloaded here.


Upcoming!


  • Gabby let us in on the news that she is going to be launching Gabberdashery Patterns soon! Gabby is working with the very talented Barbara A.K.A Rocking Stitch and they are recording their progress on Gabby's Youtube channel.
  • Jennifer Lauren Handmade will soon be releasing the Raine Dress; a summer dress with a vintage vibe, two views and pockets!
  • There is a new website launching soon which will be purely dedicated to maternity sewing! The site will be THE place to find maternity specific and 'maternity friendly' sewing patterns.
  • Halfmoon Atelier have not one but two patterns coming in the next few days. I already love the look of the summer jumpsuit and the Wells Bay Bikini is reversible!
  • Afternoon Patterns will be launching their latest design, the Sparrow Wrap Dress on Monday!


Other Exciting News






  • I'm a little bit in love with the striped BurdaStyle Wrap Dress Jade has made! So chic and modern. I adore her use of stripes and monochrome and the whole styling of this outfit is spot on.
  • Lauren's cropped linen version of the Kalle Shirt has made me see the pattern in a totally different light. I love it with a little structure, paired with denim and in a classic white. A true summer wardrobe staple.
  • I could not resist sharing Emily's Omer Jacket with you. This pattern really grabbed me when I saw it in La Maison Victor magazine, I love all those pocket, zip and topstitching details and she made a great fabric choice with a waxed cotton.
  • Sara's Myosotis Dress is absolutely dreamy. I almost splurged on some of this Blackbird Fabrics viscose a while back and now I really wish I had. One of those sewing projects that I wish I owned. It will transition really well into winter with tights too.
  • No one knows how to showcase a bold and beautiful fabric better than Marcy. I love how simply she has done it here with her hack of the Ogden Cami, adding a ruffled skirt to make a breezy summer dress.
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